salad

is it possible for a catch can with small inlet outlets to shoot the dipstick out after a lot of hard driving on the track? i hooked mine up same as nathR32's last pic, went out to the track, came back and my dip stick was out a bit and there was oil everywhere. i looked in the original pipe and there are restrictors in there so i didnt think it would matter with small inlet/outlets cos theyre still bigger than these. i did disconnect the catch can and put the stock pipe back on and it ran perfectly

1. is the vibration through the steering wheel or through the seat? if its through the seat, more than likely its the rear tyres fault as the guy said 2. cars pull with uneven camber and/or castor. they pull to the side with less camber/castor. to fix the problem get castor rods/bushes. if the camber is uneven too get camber bushes/arms. all this information will be on you wheel alignment report. both camber and castor should be very close to even. if there is castor adjustment, wheel aligners will set the left up with 0.5-1.0deg more castor to accomodate for the natural camber of roads (which allow for water drainage)

with a lock bar you should still have toe adjustments. your rear tie rods should be screwed into the lock bar. you should run some negative camber, about 1 deg, depending on how fast you go. its still gonna roll over and you will wear the outsides a lot with 0 camber an upgraded front bar with stock rear will promote understeer not oversteer. get the rear bar first

ive run mine at 1bar for almost a year now, including a lot of track work and hasnt failed me. the S1 turbo has steel compressor and the S2 turbo has nylon. same specs though

i just bought them i just need another pair to make it a set

im looking at getting some of these. was kinda hoping they would last a bit longer than that...

i'm after a pair of R32 gtr rims. i just got a pair for $250 so lookin for stuff around this price dont want tyres with them cos im just gonna put semis on em anyway. prefer adelaide seller, but i can organize all freight from interstate. cheers

would you be able to weigh each rim for me so i can get a price on freight? ill organise it all, ma has an account with TNT would you consider selling without tyres?

theyre a great upgrade for rb20s gives you power all the way to redline unlike the rb20 turbo and theyre cheap. power gain is supposed to be in the region of 10-15rwkw people are a little skeptical about having a nylon impeller but it doesnt make a difference, the turbine will fail long before the impeller get which ever one is in better condition

unlock the bottom locking collar (wind it down), you may need to hold the top one and then adjust the top one, the actual spring seat, to how you want it. can use either method, i personally use a tape measure/steel rule cos i cant be bothered counting

scroll down a bit

lower spring seat is adjustable, on a threaded part of the shock, and then there is a locking collar under that. adjust it with a C-spanner can buy C-spanners from pedders or the like for $20ish?

front is around 380mm and rear is around 370mm

if it helps it is the dual solenoid one cos the single one has a different design solenoid this is a bargain, if theyre anything like the slightly newer ones, theyre awesome!

if you use a heat gun when you roll guards, the paint wont crack (usually) shock rates and spring rates are closely related (should be anyway) so if its too soft, then its both that are too soft you wouldnt just go increasing the spring rates without increasing the shock rates or vice versa

quick fix go to your hicas computer (under your parcel shelf) and unplug the smaller of the 2 wiring harnesses in the back of it. then find the green wire with white trace line and cut it. plug your wiring harness back in its easier to get to from the back seat when its out compared to from the boot. this wire sends the signal to the warning light when something hicas related has gone wrong. the light will still come on if the resevoir is low on fluid

on car balance? i dont know of any places that balance wheels on the car... we (tyrepower) mount the rim + tyre on a machine that spins it rotors and hubs should already be balanced when they are made

thats not bad price?

hi guys just wondering about what shoes you guys run? i just found out why my handbrake wasnt locking, down to metal on the shoes... so yeah, i was thinkin the URAS shoes but theyre a bit over $200 is there anything cheaper? i never had any problems with handbrake locking before cheers EDIT: just got my old shoes relined

for street, much rather the whiteline setup over your generic taiwanese/chinese coilover the bilsteins in the whiteline setup are amazing

s13 steering shaft spacer is same as r32 one of the guys on here does em for $30 NV N01 just get tie rod ends from a wrecker, theyll do. EDIT: oh crap, i thought you said steering shaft

^^^ nah, that would just make things quicker and easier for everyone

z32 = 80mm (i know) gtr = 70mm (i think) gtr one definitely smaller though

yep, 2nd on the groupbuy

dont get either...