salad

you can take the info to any place that does wheel alignments and they will get it as close to these specs as possible. im guessin that you dont have any camber and castor adjustment on the front so they will not be able to do anything about this, there is a little camber adjustment on the back to get to these specs you will need camber and castor kits

yeah, i was talkin to sam when he was in adelaide and he used a sorta low reading dyno here and i asked him about it and he said his dyno reads even lower. and drive trains dont lose a percentage of your total power, they lose a static amount of power (but different amounts in different gears and depends on rim size(weight) etc)

BUY STUFF!!!

dont bother with the stock amp, run the speakers off the head unit and leave it at that. your headunit's amp will sound a lot better than the factory amp anyway, its a tiny round POS just behind your rear wiper motor

r32 gts-t calipers are alluminium aswell, the only ones that i know of that are cast are s14, s15 calipers

ventilated twin pot with 296x18mm rotors (not too sure about the thickness) with drum handbrake all the gts-ts have the same rear brakes and non brembo gtr are the same. pretty sure...

adjust your handbrake. take rim off, take out little rubber grommet on drum, adjust with a big flat head screwdriver

i work at a tyre shop, we send heaps away to factories to get repaired properly, we dont do it at the work shop. dunno the entire process but it comes back with a small "patch" but is different to your normal patch. it is vulcanised into the sidewall properly, unlike normal puncture repairs but yeah, knife through it probly means its rooted

1990 R32 gts-t 43000kms R32 gtr fuel pump Z32 afm rb25 turbo s1 (leaking from compressor seal, pretty shagged) monsta performance FMIC apexi power intake pod 3" turbo back exhaust blitz DSBC spec-r dr drift dyno tune 156rwkw @ 1bar

depends how big, if its small take it to a tyre shop and they can get it repaired properly. tyre is sent away and a vulcanized patch is used. weve done heaps at my work, take it to a tyre shop and ask em chances arent too good if it got stabbed with a knife though

go for a 215/45 Toyo TPG (trampio)

bump

with a little toe out on the rear you will find flicking back the other way a little easier, toe in will make it more stable i currently run a tiny bit of toe out

if you have this attitude, why are you on a skyline forum?

part no. KCA331 RRP $129 group buy $115 +$5 delivery http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591

rb25 turbo s1 leakin a little bit of oil from compressor housing, been like this for a while, nothin too bad with it. still on car can take for test drive, etc may be able to supply intake elbow and lines for $50 extra depending which turbo i buy (vg30 or something else, will know shortly) just checked shaft play and has none side to side and about 0.5mm in and out. pretty normal still pulls all the way to redline unlike rb20 turbo good upgrade for rb20 made 170rwkw at tilbrooks with no fmic (notoriously high reading dyno) and 156rwkw at morpowa with fmic (low reading dyno) other mods: pod, gtr pump, 3" turbo back exhaust, 1bar boost after $200 cheap cos of the slight oil leak sms/call 0422255843, PM or post prefer adelaide buyers

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if its still a daily, get a cushioned button, they engage almost like a button, but they drive almost like a stock clutch, very good cheaper than a solid button too

the compressor housing is bigger on the rb25 turbo, but the turbine housing is the same size for both turbos

yeah, i put 15" steelies on the back of my R32 once, just needed 5mm spacers to clear the caliper.

get front and rear adjustable swaybars and castor and camber bushes. more castor and more camber will help a fair bit. and the swaybars will control your roll more. that power is about right.

the told you to get castor bushes cos your castor is uneven and making it pull. adjustable ones will let you even it up so that it will drive straight. yeah, must do both sides. otherwise will have rubber on one side (soft, old, shit) and urethane on the other (hard, good). look in sydneykids group buy, theyre cheap in there

i had a limiter at 2500 once, and the car drove like shit my afm plug isnt in properly, pushed it in all the way and it was fine

which turbo did you get highflowed? rb20/rb25/vg30/etc?

doubtful as sam (dr drift) hasnt figured out how to remap them yet. very tricky to remap