salad

get fully adjustable pillowball rods heaps better

hahaha nah, i think ill leave that my speedo did stop workin for a while, so i assume this wouldve produced the same results... anyway, the steering would be normal for a while, but then after a while of driving, the hicas light would come on and steering would become heavy, but would self correct REALLY fast, and that was with stock 7deg castor. i would love my steering to be like this, except for the heavyness thing, it was quite heavy

put 205/50s on the front and 225/50s on the back. less flex on the front where it matters more, and more grip on the back so you dont spin your wheels lots...

depends on both design of the wheel and offset but for 2 rims with the same design, the one with the smaller offset will clear the caliper by more if you cant afford new rims, just buy some slip on spacers

yeah, steering is a bit down, gotta top it up would it affect it if theres air in the system? is it likely there could be air in the system? and if there is, how do i bleed it?

front upper arms sold airbox up for grabs again....

the offset is the distance from the centre of the wheel to where it bolts onto the hub. a smaller offset means the rim sticks out further. 245 wont be stretched on an 8.5" rim, it should sit flush, but then depends on what brand tyre you get too (falkens are typicallys skinny) and 265 should be pretty much flush on a 9.5 too. and if you want it for track work too, make sure you get really light weight rims cos this will affect handling a fair bit.

VG30 turbos come from Z31 300ZXs they have a bigger exhaust housing so can flow more exhaust gasses and therefore make more top end power these are known to be pretty laggy on rb20s though as the exhaust housing is designed for a 3L engine not 2L... but then again, some people dont mind the lag and are happy with the power gains

front upper arms sold pending payment

i would assume they do as the strut is rigidly connected to the hub and chassis so any flex in the chassis would change the camber

i got 170 with a 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat), r33 turbo, gtr fuel pump, hks pod and 1 bar boost stock ecu and stuff, have remapped now. with remap should get over 170 pretty easily, if you change your afm, my afm is now maxed out... highly recommend dr drift

airbox sold, 2 of 4 spacers sold rest of the stuff still up for sale

yeah, i only ran 16.5 for a little bit cos i put my adjustable upper arms in the wrong way... <_< and resulted in LOTS of camber runnin 11 degrees now and steering response is poor, dont like it one bit

yeah, could you go into a little more detail here?

right, so in my understanding, more castor is sposed to make your steering wheel self correct faster right? i have an R32 with adjustable castor rods and adjustable upper arms and with these i have gotten 11 degrees castor compared to the stock 7 degrees. i did have it at 16.5 deg castor for a little bit when i put my upper arms in the wrong way and this made the wheel come back really fast in reverse, but still the same as 11deg goin forwards. also on 16.5 deg castor the steering would get really heavy after stuff got a bit hotter so i think it was puttin a lot of stress on the steering. could the powersteering pump have something to do with my my wheel comes back slow? has anyone else had this problem?

wait... with those mods you only ran 15s? get your ecu remapped as the stock r32 ecu is very good, and its cheaper to get it remapped. are you just gettin the R33 turbo rebuilt or hi-flowed? a hi-flow will get you past 200, dont think the stock R33 turbo will ive got a similar set up (r33 turbo, 3" turbo back and pod) and made 170rwkw on 1 bar 200rwkw should be easy with the hi-flow

castor rods sold price drop on spacers to $10/pair firm

different companies make different width tyres i had 265 falkens on 9"rims and they sat in a bit then put on 235 federals and they sat pretty much completely flush. was a bit confused till the boss told me about different companys and their tyres

cops do not carry the equiptment to test emissions, they have to send you to regency or equivalent to test it. and if you go to this sorta thing without a cat in.... well thats pretty damn stupid one thing that will happen with no cat is that you may blow visable flames, which could be bad if there happens to be a cop behind you at the time.

no one guttered their car recently? or have worn out bushes?

do really tight cirlces (not fast) in a carpark or something, then let your foot off the accelerator, if the inside wheel keeps skipping, its a 2way, if it doesnt, its a 1.5 or 1way. (may be easier to get someone to stand in the middle of the circle and tell you when the inside wheel is skipping) and mechanical diffs are very noisy doin low speed corners and stuff, like parking. you will hear lots of clunking and shuddering

the strut top needs to be rotated a littlebit to fit, besides that, they are the same and the s13 is shorter, so lower and i think the spring rate is lower too

bump

im pretty sure the rear speaker install for an R32 coupe and sedan are the same. well a bit easier on the sedan cos youve got back doors and makes gettin in and out easier.... thats about it did my rear speakers myself (sedan) and helped mate do his (coupe)

i know that non turbo R33 rotors are exactly the same as R32 gts-t rotors, but use a floating caliper a lot of people do this upgrade for silvias cos theyre 4 stud, so no redrilling is needed, and then they just whack the R32 gts-t calipers on