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Item: RB30 Spool Conrods SOLD! Age: Brand new Condition: Brand new Price: $750 ($149 less than RRP) To Fit: RB30 bottom end Comments: http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLRB30CONRODS.asp Rated to 900hp Item: 2x 17x9 +37 Jap rims Age: unknown Condition: good, have been spray painted black by previous owner. Centre caps are missing Price: $350ono To Fit: 5x114.3 Skylines, silvias, etc Comments: Quite light, good for track rims. Tyres on there are rooted. Will get some better pics over the weekend Not sure what's rash and what's dirt at the moment, I dont think there was much rash on them, I never drove them on the street, but I could be wrong. Never really paid much attention to em... Item: R33 GTS-t CAS Age: 10-13years Condition: Average, bracket for plug is broken off, but all pins still fine. Price: $60 ono To Fit: (What car) R33 GTS-t Item: R33 GTS-t ECU (S1 manual) SOLD Age: 10-13 years Condition: Good Price: $120 ono To Fit: (What car) R33 GTS-t Item: R32 inlet manifold + plenum SOLD! Age: 17yrs Condition: Good Price: $80 ono (offers?) To Fit: (What car) R32 GTS-t Item: 6x RB20DET injectors Age: 17yrs Condition: unknown Price: $30 for the set To Fit: (What car) R32 GTS-t Comments: 260-270cc/min, high impedence Item: R32 fuel rail Age: 17yrs Condition: Good Price: $40ono (offers?) To Fit: (What car) R32 GTS-t Item: R32 RB25DE wiring loom Age: ~17yrs Condition: Good, all plugs still in tact and connected, no chopped wires. Price: $200ono To Fit: (What car) R32 Comments: Should be the same as RB20DET one as I just used my standard RB20DET loom to run the R32 RB25DE head. Item: RB20DET sump Age: 17years Condition: Good, just needs a clean Price: $60ono To Fit: (What car) R32 GTS-t Item: R32 RB20DET clutch slave cylinder SOLD Age: 17yrs Condition: Good Price: $40 ono To Fit: (What car) Anything with RB20DET gearbox Location:NE Adelaide. Contact:0422 255 843 Comments: Pics on request, happy to post anywhere in Aus at buyer's expense Stuff is being sold as it's not needed anymore and just taking up space.

They dont look adjustable sav_man...

Just saw this thread, I'm making 206rwkw on 10psi with the RB30DET in my R32 GTS-t 10% more torque than my old 220rwkw RB20 though

OK, I was going to cancel this due to a lack of interest but there has been some interest for me to try get it going again. As I will no longer be driving at the day, a lot of incentive has been lost for me to organise it. Anyway, the only way I will keep trying to organise this now is if I get people that will tell me they are coming out regardless of the weather, and will actually show up. This means it may be a 40deg day... Please do NOT vote if you are not serious, or have a high chance of pulling out. Only vote if you are 100% sure that you will be coming out to drive. Cheers Showza

Dont forget you were running increased Fuel pressure and the tuner was pretty worried about it.

I dont think CA18 injectors will flow 260rwkw, as that's around about what the 440cc GTR injectors flow. Simple math says the CA18 injectors will flow close to 220rwkw. The other alternative to using the GTR resistor pack is get your hands on an MR30 resistor pack. I got mine for $5.50 with the plug and have been running my GTR injectors in the RB20 for close to 6 months now with the standard remapped computer. No issues Cubes is also doing the same thing

Saw a silver 4dr 32 with all the GTR gear (looked just like mine, but much much cleaner... ) on Gorge Rd about 5:30 today and then on the way back a silver R33 (S2?) pulled out behind me at just before 10.

I reckon I'll be alright with 'em then, can adjust the dogbone ones with the wheel on. Taking the wheel on and off on a wheel alignment machine is too much of a pain in the arse for my liking Do they have any means of adjusting them easily like turning a nut/bolt? Or do you have to just physically push/pull to make it slide inside itself... Anything along these lines?

I wouldn't think the VG30 turbo would make more power as the R34 turbo though as everything on the exhaust side is the same, but the R34 turbo runs a larger compressor...

I wouldn't think the VG30 turbo would make more power as the R34 turbo though as everything on the exhaust side is the same, but the R34 turbo runs a larger compressor...

Everyone loves sponges... And the motor still runs decently, not too shabby for a VL motor

GT2540 is just a bad turbo all round, far too much compressor for the turbine to handle. GTRS is similar, but no where near as bad. Have a look in the forced induction section at other people's choices.

For daily driving, the Whiteline camber bushes should be enough. 0deg camber will give you even wear if you only drive in a straight line, you need a bit of negative camber if you like corners, half the reason you have a skyline right? Beer Baron or Roy: What are the Noltec arms like to adjust? Quick look says you just have to push the top of the wheel in/out... Or is there a simpler way? I'm up for new upper arms soon as my dogbone ones are pretty rooted, so am considering the Noltec ones now No issues with the bushes flogging out like stockers and Whiteline?

Yeah, hi doctor, I'm just wondering, is there such thing as herpes of the elbow? The wife and I were getting a bit rambunctious over the weekend and I accidently elbowed her in the vagina...

Magazine cars actually have to look decent dont they... Maybe Simon's car? Goes fast and looks good.

Ah, that is good to know, I was advised against them by SK as he said they slip, I just blindly went with it... Do the Noltec arms have the problem of the bushes flogging out?

I got my dog bone arms from Japan and I thought I'd max them out on the wheel aligning machine for shits and giggles. They maxed out at 5deg, so they give more than enough adjustment. They're not too expensive on the yahoo auctions for brand new one's either, around the same price as the Noltec ones. They wont slip under load, but will give lots of NVH. KTS also make them (dogbone style), and there is a local distributer for them, but I cant quite remember who at the moment, but they also quoted me a similar price to the Noltecs.

Yep, that's a pretty similar argument that Gary gave

I got my conversion kit when I bought the shocks, so I had them revalved at the time. Gary (SK) told me it was the better idea and revalving was not much extra, so I had it done. I dont think that djr81 had them done though? The difference may not be huge, guess it depends on how high you're going with your spring rates. Only place I know of finding out more info about them is talking to Gary himself, or possibly PM "Jonosx" on Nissansilvia.com. I know PMing a guy on NS.com for useful information sounds pretty damn stupid, but the guy works at Bilstein and he builds the shocks, so can shed some light on the whole thing.

^^^ Around an extra $1000 for the springs and coilover conversion kit (threaded sleave, lower spring seats and upper spring seat adapter).

More than likely, it is a rooted spherical bearing in your strut top and needs replacing.

Lower lip is seperate on a genuine one. Pretty easy to tell plastic from fibreglass when it's in front of you anyway.

I THINK the rule of thumb is lower front = better turn in. Quite happy to be corrected though. I think it's to do with the centre of gravity heights front to rear, but then obviously suspension geometry starts playing a pretty big part in it too.

Fairly sure most if not all came with NGK O2 sensors... +1 for Andrew from Kudos selling you a direct replacement O2 sensor. Cheap as and you know it will work. No messing around, just take old one out and put new one in

Yep, R32 GTR rims I got my set for $250/pair off a couple of different guys, so they're not heaps expensive. Short of that, you could go for Z32 rims, they're dirt cheap and almost 8" wide, 16x7.5 with +45mm offset (not 100% on offset). Seen whole sets being sold for under $100, so might be something to look into