salad

I've got these, they're a bit noisey, my bearings have gone a bit notchey and I've broken all the tabs on one side for the locking mechanism off (little tabs under the goldish ring). I wouldn't buy them unless you plan on lots of track work. Mine have taken a beating for about a year or so, but that said, they were bought second hand (good condition when I bought them though). For a street car, I'd definitely take the bushes over those arms.

What ended up happening with SAU being called up to the commentator's box? I heard it over the PA, but didn't know what was goin on. Probably should've taken my car along, would've been good in the technical sections with all the bottom end torque. Could've at least entered it in the show and shine

They are also a tolerance fit, must be pressed in. Have a look at almost all (if not all) of the bushes in your suspension, they have a metal sleeve that is a tolerance fit with the arm/hub, no lips or anything. Need a huge amount of force to press them out, in the range of 10-20 tonnes.

^^^That he did, had pretty high speeds through turn 1 that's for sure. Also thought the guy in the Echo was pretty decent, and entertaining to watch

I didn't think it would be that hard to find really... Skylines Australia club, so look for skylines... Bah, too late. Anyway, I'll be organising another day as soon as Mallala releases the dates of next year's practices. Will make another thread when I know. Plenty of notice this time

How low is the car? When was the last time it was wheel aligned? Too much negative camber causes inner edge wear and toe out will exacerbate this. To bring camber back to normal amounts (if it's been lowered a bit), your best bet is adjustable upper arm bushes. They can be had through the Whiteline/Bilstein groupbuy for around the $190 delivered mark.

How so? I'm struggling to picture it... Camber makes the wheel pivot about the lower ball joint (for upper arm adjustment), so there's bugger all height change in the centre of the wheel, not even 1mm. 260DET: Sill measurements are best used to measure rake, but for actual ride height, centre of wheel to guard is better. As djr81 said, it neglects all differences in rolling diameters, so this includes things like wheel/tyre size and even tread wear (new tyres have 8mm tread)

I'm not aware of Whiteline making replacement bushes either. Their site says they dont make them, just pineapples. One of the only companies I know of that make replacement subframe bushes are Noltec, and also one of the sponsors makes them, "racespec" I think. There are 4 bushes in the subframe, and they are all one piece.

Definitely go the GT3071R over the GT-RS. They use the same compressor but different trims, 52T in GT-RS and 56T in GT3071R (correct me if I'm wrong) except the GT-RS uses the smaller GT28 NS111 turbine. These are only good for about 330hp, but the compressor is rated up to about 420hp. Little point in crammimg more air in if you cant get it out is there? Just make sure that if you do get the GT3071R, get the proper 60mm turbine, not the cropped 56mm one.

I'll be there

Size and offset of the rims would be handy And size of tyres would be nice too

Blitz DSBC Spec-R Cheap and very easy to setup. Not as many wank features as many of the other controllers, just holds steady boost and ramps it up fast, does all I ask of it. Both run with stock RB20 10psi actuator.

The Noltec website lists the GTR and GTS-t having different width bushes. 82.5mm for the GTR 71.5mm for the GTS-t Pretty much just confirms Duncan's findings. On the note of adjustable arms and sphericals, Noltec also make an adjustable arm that uses bushes instead of sphericals, so would be a good solution if you're after a bit more adjustment on a still road driven car. Down side is they retail for $494.64... http://noltecsuspension.com/popproduct.php...32++++5%2F89-93 Says that they're only suitable for GTR, but I'm sure you could get them to put the shorter GTS-t bush in there instead.

They're OK, but there is much better out there. The T1R is much better if you can afford that, but it is a fair bit more expensive.

Yep, bit hard, but can be done, that's what I meant by the spacers

Haha, wouldn't be surprised if you lot are better than me now... Everyone keeps getting better and I havn't had any track time! No proper sessions since DA/SD rd 2! Damn cars!

You could only get 6deg caster out of your car cos it's bent...

I think half the problem today was people didn't really know who to look for? Would it make things easier if next time I PM'd my number to everyone that was coming so everyone could know where we were? Or maybe list distinguishing features of cars? or? BOOSTD: Yeah, you really need to bring a jerry can or two full of fuel out with you. I'll be bringing two full ones with me from now on Probably a spare set of pads too Oh and BIG thanks to Steve for organising all food and drink today, pity it didn't work out well...

The people that were crowded around the BBQ ended up being Madaz, Cubes + 2, Richo + 1, Simon-R32 + 1 and myself...

We were there, we got there a bit late, about 11:45, and then we had an issue with the BBQ, one of the fittings didn't fit, so Madaz and I had to drive to Gawler to get the fitting. Cubes, Simon-R32 and co hung around till we got back though (about 1), then we started cooking and couldn't find many people...

Roy, yes those will serve a very similar purpose to the Noltec replacement bushes, except the alloy bushes pretty much have no compliance, where as the Noltec items do have some compliance. Also, to change the amount of anti-squat, you will have to put spacers on top of the solid cradle bush, unlike with the Noltecs where you can just cut the little stub off on one end.

A strut is a spring and shock combination. So yes, you have struts and yes you have shocks.

Yeah, tandems on the day will be sweet I'll probably end up goin 3076R as I dont really want more than 300rwkw, and th 3076R will do that fine, and be almost as responsive as what I have now! Laid Cubes' dyno sheet over mine... Bit rediculous really!

OK guys, Steve and I will be getting there at about 11.

Well, after a long wait, I FINALLY got my RB30DET going Stock bottom end, no idea of kms... Was out of an auto VL though. RB25DET oil pump R32 RB25DE head with upgraded valve springs (around 70 pounds seating pressure) GTR injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 040 Cheap FMIC 3" turbo back exhaust (HKS muffler) RB25 turbo + VG30 rear housing Remapped RB20 ECU Makes 206rwkw at 10psi RB30DET (black) vs. RB20DET with GCG highflow (red)