GTSSS

Found out now that the atenator is OK and with the doors locked current draw drops to about 150mA and then drops to 80mA with the Ignition fuse pulled. My work commodore pulls about 10mA when everything is locked and off so 150mA still seems high??? Does anyone have any ideas?

Hi, Does anyone know what the normal current draw is on an R33 GTS-t with the engine off and all accessories (alarms, interior lights etc...) off? I am currently getting around 220mA and think this is the reason why my car has killed 2 Exide evolution 550cca batteries in 2 years. I have tried pulling fuses with an ammeter attached and find that the current draw drops 220mA to 130mA when the main 63A fuse is pulled, the alarm is drawing about 30mA when not activated, all other fuses don’t seem to drop the current draw by that much?? I am currently getting the alternator checked out as It may not be charging to its full potential, although it is getting 14.1 when car is cold and 13.9 when car has warmed up. Does anyone have any other ideas? As this problem is really annoying as I cannot leave my car for more than 3 or 4 days without starting it or the battery dies. Thanks

What do the switches look like? I can see the speedo sender on the side of the box but not the reverse gear senson?

Thanks, What is the nuetral switch used for?

The waste gate swing valve for the internal waste gate is built into the turbo flange part of the dump pipe (similar to a VL turbo) and i have not found any aftermarket units that have this feature. Thus I had Liverpool exhaust "high flow" it by cutting off the plate that usually covers the swing valve section and moulding a 3 inch pipe around it to suite. I have a wrapped the pipe with Thermotec all the way to the cat, so if the steel was too thin I guess this would somewhat compensate? It seems like this is not a common problem So I will have to do a more thorough investigation... As an demonstration The dump pipe used to look like this with a 3" pipe welded onto the rear: And now looks more like this Cheers

I have a S2 R33 GTSt with a T3/T4 turbo. It is an internaly gated turbo with a hole in the Turbine housing and the swing valve in the dump pipe. I recently had the dump pipe opened up and "high flowed", but now I get loud noise coming from the dump pipe which sounds like an open exhaust. the Dump was sealed with a gaskety and I'm pretty sure there are no leaks in it. The noise does not sound like hissing from a leak, more like a large hole in the dump?? I also installed a Catco metal cat? Has any one else had a problem with increased noise after installing a larger dump pipe, or if you have any ideas on how to get rid of this noise as it is quite loud when under load at low-mid revs. Cheers

My reverse light has started to flicker on and off when in reverse (R33 5 speed manual) unless the gear lever is held to the left. Does anyone know if there is a contact switch or something external to the gear box that I can adjust so that the reverse light remains constantly on when in reverse? or is the switch inside the box and I will need it professionally repaired? Cheers

I have adjusted the belt tension but the noise is still there i Guess I will just have to put up with it as I don't think it is causing any major problems.

Anyone else had this problem?

CircleLights, I think your problem could be a loose belt. There is a tensioner on the altenator, one on the pulley under the car and on on the power steering pump (could be A/C) for the three belts. No, There is no water/coolant leaking from the water pump, but I might cheack it again anyway.

No, I havn't tried replacing the belt as it was changed 12 months (approx 10kKms) ago and still looks in good condition. I am thinking it could be coming from the Altenator pulley as I removed the fan and there was still a noise. Apart from spraying it with WD40 is there anything else I can do?

Hi, I have a 1996 gtst and I am getting an annoying squeaking noise which is either coming from the altenator, fan (std clutch fan) or maybe the waterpump. I know this because the noise stops after I remove the belt linking these items. When I spin these items by hand I cannot hear any abnormal noises and the squeaking is more constant when the car is cold. I am not sure if this is a sign that the clutch fan is on its way out, but it is really annoying. I have sprayed the altenator area with WD40 but the noise is still there. If anyone has had a similar problem and found a resolution please post here and let me know. Thanks

Did my front pair in the Red today and it looks awesome! It will be less time consuming to take the calipers off and bleed the system after, rather than trying to cover/tape up everything else. Although the end result will not look much different from the outside. I used wheel bearing grease applied with an ear bud to the NISSAN logo and the paint came straight off afterwards. It is recommended that you use the adhesion promoter (CP199) before the ground cote. That is if you can find it! and if you do find somewhere that sells it in SYD please let me know.

At the moment the limiter is set to 0, so its not limiting the boost only flashing its head off. Peak boost never goes above 14 psi and the warning is set at 15 psi I have a black head unit. I have no problems with boost controll as my dyno graphs will show either a spike or flat progression depending on how I set up the unit. I Don't think that it is wiring as I can change the warning setting from 15.3psi to 15.2psi and it will only flash when 15.2psi is reached. But this only lasts till i hit boost 3 to 5 times (any boost ammount) and then it will start flashing on boost levels above 12psi?????

Hi everyone, I'm looking at upgading my Geforce 2 video card for under $100 It looks like I can get either a Geforce FX 5200 or a ATI Radeon 9550. Both have 128 mb RAM and TV out Has anyone had any experience with these cards? and what has been your experience? My current system is an AMD 1700 (1.5Gig) with 512mb of RAM Cheers

The warning light comes at about 12psi, sometimes as earlie as 10.5 psi. The problem doesn't seem to have any effect on the units ability to controll boost, its more of an annoyance that the unit keeps flashing and beeping.

HI Everyone, I have a Greddy ProfecB spec2 and the boost warning feature keeps coming on when whenever I get near 12psi regardless of what it is actually set at I can rectify this problem by resetting the limit value down (to any value so long as its less and not more thatn the original setting) but that only lasts until I reach the set boost a couple of times and then it goes back to flashing the waring over 12psi or so. The warning level can be set at 16 psi, but the warning will still come on as above. I don't believe that boost is spiking as I have had it on a dyno and I monitor the boost guage regularly and it still controlls boost effectively. I have played around with all of the settings but I am at a loss. Has anyone else had this problem with their ProfecB or other boost controller? or can offer any suggestions? I have a series 2 R33 GTS-t Thanks for your help