cookie--monster

Damn Nissan and their special globes, globe-holders, and silicone caps! I will never get this fixed! =-/// I wonder what the current s15 and other nissan models are using these days... Im sure they would have completely changed over to LED's but if not then maybe theres a chance they are using the same type still...does anyone know?

so can u remember the what model car the $65 master was for? probably a holden commodore right?

just leaver the seat off with a large flat head screw driver, locate the 2 holding points roughly in the centre of each seat area.

need to replace the clutch master cylinder : will the VL master fit the 32gtst and is it exactly the same or just very similar? should the factory part be costing me 80 or 150 as i have heard both thanks

just replaced the slave cylinder myself. 5 weeks later i get fluid leakin into the cabin down the clutch pedal...ruined my floormat .... will a VL master fit an r32gtst? can i do it myself or is it harder than the slave change out? are the factory master slaves $80 from nissan or more like $150? thanks

Does anybody know for sure if the door lock assembly from a four door 32 would fit a 2 door 32? This is not the key lock but the assembly which locks onto the door frame of the car. Thats all just jap have at the moment.

yeah i just got a ceramic clutch installed too and the clunking is now really loud and noticeable.

i had the same heavy pedal before i changed mine.turned out to be a stock clutch but the fluid was really dirty.i think u should check your fluid and bleed it .it could be that your master or slave cylinder is on the way out.

Nah,i recon thats just dodgy...who wants to muck around with two or three extra gears when it should just slide straight into the one you select ?. if your havin trouble now,it will just get worse so it REALLY needs to be looked at.

yeah mine also makes the same noises you described.i mite look into changing the oil,but its unlikely to be that.(when its complied in australia they are required by law to change EVERY FLUID in the car) diff,gearbox,clutch,engine ,brakes,etc etc...weather they all do is another story. i just got a new clutch (brass button) and as its much harder to change gears..i can feel the torque straining it, especially in reverse.

Checked the master cylinder resoivoir which has very little fluid in it.(92 r32gtst) the pedal is super light and i need pressure back so i can drive it tomorrow to get a new clutch installed. i found this tutorial at 10w40.com is it applicable? Follow this procedure to properly bleed the hydraulic clutch which is similar to bleeding brakes. 1) Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir. 2) Put a clear plastic tube on the bleeder nipple and submerge the end of the tube in a jar with some clutch hydraulic fluid. 3) Slowly depress the clutch pedal. 4) SLIGHTLY loosen the bleeder nipple. 5) While fluid is traveling through the tube, tighten the bleeder BEFORE the pedal is fully depressed. 6) Release pedal. Repeat procedure until you are certain: A) No bubbles appear in the fluid stream. B) The bleeder was opened after the clutch pedal started depressing and was closed before the pedal reached the bottom. C) The master cylinder reservoir never uncovered the ports in the bottom. Make sure the slave cylinder is tightly fastened to the transmission case and does not move when the clutch pedal is depressed. Look for threaded adjustment rods in the slave cylinder and clutch pedal linkages that can be used to insure the clutch is fully released BEFORE the clutch pedal is fully depressed. my car is low,will i be able to reach the slave /bleed valve without getting fully under the car?cheers.

cheers will do this arvo. got a quote for a 5 finger clutch,new bearing,machined flywheel and labour $1000.

Myclutch has been slipping for ages now.Today though,all of a sudden it had gone.The pedal is as light as a feather,and it is VERY hard to put in gear.I had toforce it into first.Im hoping its just the clutch,but could it be the box as well? The pedal has lost almost all pressure,and will not return to 'home'position.. Maybe the master/slave cyliner is also gone? Is it usual for a clutch to go like that,i thought they mostly just slipp to the end? what are the sure signs of damage to these components?

nsw,north shore would you reccomend a machined flywheel?

im up for a new clutch and want to know the best options avaliable.i dont want to spend more than $700 including labour.Probably go to justjap for installation. no ceramic/triple plate/brass button madness! whatever is in mine now has a really hard pedal feel which sucks as mine is a daily drive,any suggestions?

got mine with around 88000 kms from japan, i put a high-flow cat and dump pipe on at 105000 and then it started to slip.it slipps in evey gear except first,when i put my foot down hard.smells bad. its got a really heavy pedal,which i would love to know why...im sure a heavy duty clutch can have a light pedal? anyone know?

from what i understand,the two glass antennas are hooked up to the single antenna cable but you also have to power them via your headunit;.the cable it connects to in the dash is apparently red and black..i think i have the right one though cant be sure.my stereo should be getting put in this weekend (finally) so i ll post back after i have a go.

no after that incident i drove it the rest of the way to work,about 7kms. i guess the drive home will tell..

thanks will spray some degreaser arond the assembly.its quite clean though so i wont hold my breath.

i just got new adjustable castor rods for the front (R32 GTST)put on.i was hoping this would help reduce the car from pulling to the left.the mechanic at tynan tyres said that even though he had the alignment mechanically perfect, the tyres were worn that way already so it would continue to pull in the same direction.is this true?i was running in excess of 1'.5'' camber and this has worn the inside slightly.the adjustments on the arms are almost maxed out but within the r32 specifications according to the alignment programme. all up this cost me $300 including labour and its solved nothing!if i get new tyres will this fix it?

took off at lights and....was in first gear and abot 3000RPM i lost control of the throttle and the RPM rapidly increased to 7500 by itself! at this stage i had turned into the street and it was no longer in gear but the RPM kept climbing automatically.i had to blip the accelerator to "uncatch' it and it went back to 1000RPM. what could have caused this?a stuck cable or a slipping clutch?

I too agree that an r32 would be a better choice,as far as i remember the 180 i test drove felt like a rattling go cart with too many noises and standard build quality in comparison to a 32. its nice but as it sits lower than a 32 but has a kinda 80s sports car look to it!

HEY CHRIS WHERE IS THE ANTENNA BOOSTER/AMPLIFIER LOCATED ON AN R32GTS? ITS NOT PART OF THE SMALL ROUNDISH ONE UNDER THE REAR PARCEL SHELF IN THE BOOT IS IT?