atessa

1990 Nissan GTR 95,000k Spark Silver R33GTR block Haltec ECU eBoost2 boost controller Apexi turbo timer N1 Turbos Ceramic coated dump pipes 3.5” Cat & full 3” stainless system Brass Button Clutch Plate HICAS lockout Tein adjustable coilovers 18x9 Enkei RC5 hollow forged homologated race rims. Very light and strong. New slotted brake rotors front and rear, Bendix ultimate pads Cusco strut braces front & back New timing belt All new bushes, including rear cradle All new fluids inc power steering, brakes, gearbox & diffs 300kph speedo put in with 14,000k on clock (still have original one too – changed out at 87,000k) Runs an easy 270awkw @ 14psi I have owned this car since import in 2005. My goal has been to keep it clean and tidy, with no holes in the dash or interior, no body kits or external mods. The only internal mod is a Momo wheel. Its a very original and clean car - even has original toolkit in the boot. All engine mods have been to create a very driveable and responsive car. It doesn’t have mega power at ridiculous rpm, but it creates excellent torque and power that comes on quickly. It does this at low boost settings and will run all day every day. Engine work done 10,000k ago by Brad Sherriff at Boost Automotive Launceston. Beautiful car to drive. Very regretful sale, but driven only 30,000k in 7 years I can’t justify keeping it. Urgent Sale - $19,000 or best (and fast) offer. Glenn - 0438 230 171 Hobart Tasmania [email protected]

hmm, tough position... you want a fast, grippy, agile car. your dad wants you to drive a camry. buy a GTS. don't lift the bonnet. or... do some driver training. buy a gtr. learn to tame those right foot impulses. (ok ok... that aint gonna happen... better go for the camry : )

tough decision huh? well, do you want a fast car in a straight line, or do you want a car that's one of the most unbeatable vehicles on the road? you can spend bucks on a 300+rwkw gtst and have a commodore killer, but still get beat thru the bendy stuff by a stock gtr. the diiference is not just a badge, its a whole different car. if you can afford it, get the gtr. and as an owner, and up until recently, a gtr daily driver... they aint really that expensive to run. sure if you're dragging it every weekend and constantly wanting more (well, who doesn't) yeh there's bucks involved. but if you want bang for your bucks there's not much that will top a gtr for return. I'm lucky. i have now a liberty spec b for a daily. but i still get into the gtr and go "f*rk!" My mate has a very nice gtst, 300 odd at the wheels. not the same. always worrying about gassing it thru corners, fighting oversteer. and turbo lag is more of an issue too. great for bog laps and burnouts, but whenever we hit a bendy bit i know what car I'd rather be steering. gtr's are the most amazing cars out there. you will never look back once you've driven one hard.

sorry, can't help myself. but... "A word of warning on comparing pad temperature, are you looking at it as higher is always better? Saying 650 degrees is BETTER than 550 degrees? When in fact it could be exactly the opposite? It can be validly argued that a pad that GENERATES 650 degrees is not as good as a pad that GENERATES 550 degrees, for the same stopping power." just to clear this up, the temperature rating is what they can HANDLE, not what they produce. The higher the temp rating the hotter they can handle... ie they can take sustained harder braking. and my 2 cents... ultimates are great... for producing dust and squeal. I run the Ferodos and they are great. A little scarey from cold, but one or two nervous jabs gets em up to temp ok. A bit dusty and a squeak now and then but nothing compared to the ultimates. and they run against DBA 4000 rotors and they absolutely kill my mates '06 HSV GTS for pull up and feel. and they are endless on the track. I run a few laps at barbagello and that track has one of the hardest braking corners in aus... (ford fast brake) and my car has yet to kiss gravel.

GTR's are all wheel drive for a reason, and clearly this d*ck doesn't know what that reason is. trade it in for an SS ute and join the kids hanging out at maccas, ya knob.

See Jehmal @ Current Trenz in Willetton - 0411 228 546 - did a killer job on my R32. And while you're there get Stephan to detail your car - best polish this side of a pam anderson vid.

mate, can't help because i already have my enkeis... and i love 'em... lightweight, hollow, and rated for racing (used to be run in JGTC)... RP06 i think - these rims are not made any more, but can still be found at a few good spots. mine are 18x9 and i reckon they're the ducks. they also do 17's. if you can find a set, grab em. awesome brake cooling - easy as to clean, and strong and light. - and so much better looking than everyone else's 'bling' look. but yeah, go hard for the enkeis - definitely worth the search.

without delving into the texts, there's a fair bit more to it to get to a gtr. and the cost? just to clarify - she cant have a gtr or the insurance cost is prohibitive? the mods you describe are not cheap - ie thousands... is that really cheaper than insuring thru her parents or paying a higher premium/excess? i've seen several links of people wanting to turn a gts or gtt into a gtr, and while i guess if you're determined it could be done, at what cost??? to pick up an rb26 in reasonable nick you're looking at min $5000 - for something trick your talking $10 - 15k, add the drivetrain, brakes, conversion cost etc is it really worth it? will she really be able to appreciate the difference? (no offence to the driver, but seems like an awfully big spend - given the insurance issue, i'm guessing she may be a young driver) if you've already got (or looking at) a gts4, then why not just spend a few $$$ on extracting reasonable hp from the original donk - avoid relicensing/engineering certificates etc. there's plenty of people who can help you get good bang from an rb20. i think that while the gts4 has an atessa system it is not the same tech spec as in a gtr - not sure on this part. honestly, do the dollars stack up ?

mate, don't stress so much. if its still fairly stock, and you keep the oil fresh, and dont bounce the rev limiter daily, you shouldn't have to worry. the rb26 is a strong motor - good for 400 - 600hp on stock internals (depending who you talk to) but if its still fairly standard, enjoy it. the ceramic turbos are unlikely to lunch themselves unless you nail it cold or cook the boost (just look at how many 100k+ gtr's there are out there still running fine). just be sensible, run quality oil changed regularly (5000k for a daily driver) make sure its warm before hitting the loud pedal, and let it cool down properly (turbo timers are good, but a cool down run around the block is much better). i've taken my stock gtr to the track a few times, and other than a baffled sump, oil cooler and catch can, she's pretty much straight - and still happy. you are the proud owner of one of the world's most awesome performance cars... unless you're fangio, or barry bogan trying 4wheel burnouts and 7000rpm launches, you should be sweet. yes, servicing will cost more than your falcon, but isnt the joy factor worth a few more dollars? or a few less middies at the uni tav? bet you've got one of the fastest cars on campus... should help you pull a few

the difference is a matter of taste. 33 slightly heavier (and marginally slower, but by fractions), better brakes (brembos - same as 32 vspec) 33 looks like a fat silvia. (personal opinion, but sticking to it) 32 may hold its value better - due to 'classic' status. 32 looks better (again, personal opinion, but sticking to it) but - 32 gtr vspec in good nick - less than 100k - for $25k ? production volumes from nissan Total Production 43,934 1989 -1994 GT-R 40,390 Nismo 560 Vspec 1,453 Vspec II 1,303 N1 228 if i saw a good, straight low k vspec II for less than $25k, i'd buy it. and worry why i got it so cheap.

according to the underbonnet destructions, its supposed to idle at 650rpm. i've yet to see one that does. anyone? bueller? bueller? mine runs at 1000rpm, but as i only idle at traffic lights, and everything else works - why worry? i aint gonna spend $1000 or more to fix a fast idle. and yes, all gaskets are sweet, no air leaks (i replaced every external gasket once she landed on our shores) - although i'd be reluctant to pour water on a warm manifold -max 5 mins after startup for that trick.

i imported a '90 gtr. i checked it at the docks. it had side indicators. this was before compliance. asked the compliance dude - he said all he had to do was side intrusion, child restraints (straight thru the rear speakers, thanls very little) and high mount rear vis light - change fluids, convert mirrors to flat rather than convex, and that was it. took it over the pits and all they looked for was rivets in doors (to show side intrusion bars) rear high mount brake light and child restraints (how many gtr drivers are gonna stuff their kids into one of these things ???) - check to see no ridiculous intake/turbo/exhaust mods and... job done. $3 - $5k thanks for coming.

yep, got the dvd of that one - its tsukuba by the way. and yeah the 32 suffered a little, but given its at least 15 years old, and everything else was less than 3 years old, i'm pretty chuffed. they say they picked it up out of a used car lot and raced it as is... ! throw a few basic mods at the 32, ie oil cooler, baffled sump, derestrict the turbos (remove little brass thingamy from boost control line - gives extra 6psi)... and you'll still have heaps of spare change left compared to the pruchase price of any of the others... yep - still a winner for me. brakes would be my major worry. other than that... : ) but then i'm biased - i own one.

interesting sideline on the quote: "Launched in 1990, the original GT-R cost $110,000 and only 100 were imported. It was so powerful, it dominated Australian motor racing in the early 1990s (until the rules were changed to ban it from racing) and out-paced thoroughbred European cars. The GT-R's cult status has seen subsequent generations imported into Australia privately" from what i've found, nissan struggled to sell the 32 gtr, and managed only 70 something sales of the 100 imported gtr's. sad huh? another interesting aside - the guy who owns the original 'skaife/richards' gtr reckons he has to keep it behind glass because of the hatred for that car - even to this day V8 diehards are still spitting on it. can anyone else here remember 'gentleman jim' saying 'you're all a pack or arseholes" ??? long live the pushron moron.

how to convert a gtt to gtr FOR REAL ??? well, pull every panel off the car bar the roof. find a way to replace the 'c' panels above rear wheel arches - (have fun getting the new wheel arches to blend), pull the engine, drivetrain, suspension, brakes, steering and internal fittings, including dash, seats, carpets and even the parcel shelf, all electrics. basically, get down to the bare chassis. insert some extra welds. (not 100% on this part, but heard there's a bit of extra strength) spend approx twice to three times what it costs to buy a gtr and you may have the parts necessary to build one. but you still have to build one. I hope you were good with meccano when you were a kid. or, buy a gtr but then again, everyone needs a hobby : ) who am i to discourage quality shed time ? enjoy.

well, given that i have a 15 year old gtr and all the gadgets in that still work fine, i'm confident that if they put it in the next gen gtr - it will work - and the car will still be fast.

playstation diehard since ps1, colin mcrae 1, and for my money cmr 5 is the ducks nuts. haven't played wrc evolved yet, but judging from all their previous efforts, cmr always wins for realism. provided you have a good force feedback wheel and a decent rig ie car seat, steering wheel and tv combo. if you're still trying to drive with the wiggle sticks, you aren't serious about driving simulators.

just jumping back to the original topic - and to diverse slightly - if you're running 110 degrees plus in your oil, you're running too hot. unless you're on a track and you have a well built donk with uprated oil pump i would be concerned by sustained temps over 110. rb's are notorious for oil surge problems, and track work without bafffled sump, oil cooler and better oil pump should be done delicately. and the factory guages are not that accurate. be careful.

i love the sound and feel of a good v8, but the handling of a commodore jsut doesnt stack up when dealing with serious hp. case in point - first rains we had in perth and every knob with a v8 is trying to drift... rocked up to a set of lights - all innocent like - and some country boy in a mallo ute gives me the nod - on a wet road ! byebye. next point - clubsport on the mundaring weir road - guy was up my ar$e all alonng the straights - let him pass - too many cops - but thru the twisties he nailed it and i sat on his tailpipe so easily - ans i'm only running fairly standard hp in gtr. it was the grip out of the turns that kept me there - and got me past. a v8 in a good chassis is gold. but i cant afford a ferrari or a ford gt so the skyline will do.

the eternal squabble - 4 wheels vs 2... look at the power to weight - especially an R1, and the straight line equasion is fairly clear - in the dry. dial in some corners, some water and some practicality, and then you have an argument. been down to whoop-ar$e wednesday at kwinana and watched the bikes and the cars. yeah the bikes, standard, are faster. but they're bikes. different beast. if all you want is straight line speed get a bike. you want to have a comfortable,all weather, stereo equipped, warm, girlfriend friendly transport, thats fast, fun and protects you from isiots who run stop signs, get a gtr. btw, i also own a bike - and yes, i love it. its no more or less fun, its just different. and a lot easier to squeeze thru traffic.

been talking to a few lads (names hidden to protect the dodgy) about water/methanol injection systems. the boys are saying that a good injection system (couple of injectors into plenum) will lower intake temps more efficiently than spending $$$ on bigger intercoolers. given our usual climate is 15 - 35 degrees - it kinda makes sense. yet i see very little about this on the net. costs are about the same as a decent intercooler. ie good quality pump, couple of good injectors, thermo sensor to trigger injection, and water/methanol storage bottle. - less than $1000 and the word is more effective in our climate. any thoughts? particularly re the effects of water and/or methanol in the engine - supposed to be small doses, but could imagine a malfunction dumping too much could be ugly.

why do you need it? good quality brake fluid, changed regularly, will be fine. unless you intend to run bathurst...

been looking into this for a while now - lidar is pretty much impossible to avoid - because they have such a narrow beam that once your fetector picks it up (if it does at all) they've got you. lidar are generally aimed at your grille area - as they supposedly need a fairly flat surface to get a good read. dash mounted detectors - especially high mount - usualy miss them. the 'undetectable' radar detectors that they're flogging now are still dash mount - when i see a hard wired unit that has the pickup in the grille area i might reconsider but until then - i'll just keep my eyes open.

i'm with you gav, 32 or 34, there is no 33 (say in a yoda voice). they're just fat. not pretty. fast yes, but they just don't have that certain something. my 2 cents anyway. and on the topic, better off paying for a good, clean stock model, than a hotted up pig.

park it at the mundaring tav - had my gtr badge gone in 60 seconds