Boostn6Potter

As a previous poster stated, clean them with some solvent then dry with compressed air.

Some of you guys might not believe me but my stock RB20DET (stock turbo i think?) auto has kept up with a XR6T Auto to 100km/h when he backed off. Beat him by a bonnet length, his engine was basically beside my door so i could tell he was giving it plenty of stick. I have not lost one race yet having eaten v8s, new BMWs etc, WTF MY CAR'S STOCK . Mine you over 400ms the XR6T should whoop mine but meh for what it is i'm happy. Just tonight i beat a stock RX7 series 5 without much of a problem, at the next lights he asks me with a sour face, "what have you done to it?" ahahaha..... Is my car just a freak?

Running BP Ultimate with the odd squirt on the go pedal i get around 500kms, I haven't tried keeping under 3000rpm (not using boost) for a full tank but i would imagine around 550kms.

The 5spd gearbox (bought last year from Japanese motorsport), you'll need to purchase the other parts. I got quoted $500 from Import spares plus $300 for a brand new clutch kit.

Sold**

SOLD**

The clutch gave way and in turn damaged all of the above, WTF?

You'll find a 4dr under 10k, 2drs around around 12-13k from what i've seen. Nice car m8.

Yeah i made sure all the lengths were correct but the holes didn't line up 100%. Probably just a off centre drill (didn't have a drill press) but i worked it out. Thanks.

Also this problem happens when either the engine is on or off, the unit seems to operate fine for those 15mins then the sound lowers and the unit shuts off.

I'm not sure about when i'm not playing music but yes when i play music on either CD or Radio it shuts off. The speakers aren't shorting. Thing is it's not like it shuts off randomly, it does it basically at the same time all the time. No aux, amps or inputs hooked up but the unit does have a amp pre out that must be hooked up in order for the unit to operate.

Installed a new head unit and it runs fine for around 10-15mins then sound goes low and the unit shuts off. The only way i can turn it back on is if i turn the ignition off and back on again. This happens all the time. WTF is going on? The technician who looked at the headunit reckons he tested it for 5hrs without problems so it could be a wiring problem but what where and how?

How loud is it? My tappet noise is about half softer then the injector noise so i suspect it just needs some good oil and the filter replaced but i'll see what happens tomorrow.

Ok the sound is not that loud though and the engine is low km so it shouldn't need a rebuild anytime soon. The noise is a light tapping sound which it didn't do before and at the same time my oil gauge is acting up so i thought the old oil filter is blocked. I've changed the filter that i couldn't get off with a new one and have run 50km using the old oil. I won't be using the engine flush, i'll just purchase another oil filter and either Shell Helix or Motul Turbolite. It was suggested to me in a private message that i should change the oil and just replace the filter 4-5 times using the same oil, then changing the oil and filter again the last time. What i'll do though is change the oil and filter tomorrow and if the tapping goes away i'll leave it at that and change the filter again after another 500kms.

Will be doing the oil and filter change tomorrow but one thing which i'm not sure about is the oil gauge. When the cars cold the gauge reads 4, but once warm and after a bit of driving it drops right down. Why is it doing this?

Have you found away to fix this as mines doing the same. I go to lock the right side and the left side locking mechanism moves but doesn't lock the door. I need to push it manually about 2-3mm then it locks.

I used the cut diagram in the first post but the holes are way off, is this for a r32 4door because mines a 2dr. I've checked the black dots on the paper cut out under the PDF piece and they are right on the money but for some reason on the car they don't align with all the holes. Any help appreciated.

Another one down for auto, a lot smoother to drive, no clutches to replace (yup been there done that a few times) and still can give Commodore or Falcons a good run.

$120 eh, it was either get the compartment or buy another 2 vdo gauges ( have a temp gauge) and stick them in. I'll check out the pulsar idea. Thanks.

M8, it's not the injectors it's a light rattling sound coming from above the rocker covers. Injectors have a distinct sound and that sound isn't what i'm worried about. I left the old oil in and simply changed the filter yesterday. Within the next couple days i will change the filter again and fill with Motul Turbolite. The clicking or rattling sound is fairly light not that loud. My oil gauge started playing up which then led me to check under the bonnet and hear the lifters. Today when i first started her up the gauge read just above 4 (i thought yippee), then gave it some stick and the gauge went back down to 0. I'm thinking about using the engine flush with this old oil before refilling but not sure if it's a waste of money or if my oil pump is on it's way out. This kind of thing shouldn't be happening to a car with under 100,000kms so i'm stumped.

Anyone know where i can find the centre compartment which sits below the headunit in a R32 GTS-T..... in Adelaide.

Just read a thread agianst Penrite oil on this forum and your right, but have I damaged my engine? I'll get the new Motul oil and filter on tomorrow thanks m8.

I hear it at idle, can't hear it while driving. I'll see tomorrow if it goes away when i increase revs. Also may as well go to a mechanic and get them to change the filter for me, might do the trick.

Thankyou for your suggestions, what i was thinking is since the filters probably had around 10,000+kms (guess) the filter might be restricting oil flow? Before i did the service i had a leaking oil crank seal which i replaced along with both cam oil seals. Leaking was due to low oil and thrashing when i first got the car. Once fixed the car felt like a new again and no oil leaks! I have 2 different oil filter wrenches, 1 chain and 1 strap type but both didn't want to budge it. I was going to just stick a long flat head screwdriver through the filter but wasn't brave enough. I'm not going to go against your suggestion xr8eater but this oil doesn't seem too bad at all, when i checked the oil the colour and viscosity looked like i just filled up. Although when i start the car when cold i hear a clacking sound for a second then the engine revs up and settles, the rocker rattle sounds more like a mis rather then a constant rattle. I usually solve these types of problems in time, but thought someone has had a similar fault here and could save me a bit that time. Thanks.

Hi fellas, lots of good information and smart people here so i had no choice but to join . I have a low km R32 RB20Det which has started to tick even when at operating temperature. The sound is coming from above the rocker covers so i'm thinking tappets (i don't mean the the injectors ticking). Last night my oil gauge wouldn't budge much off 0, i checked the oil level but it looked right on the money. Engine was still running smooth on the way home and the gauge stayed at 0 but occasionally rising a little bit. I read in other forums that a seal is usally the culprit and the gauge is probably not reading properly. Anyway some VX Calais pulled up at the lights and wanted a run so i thought bugger it, lights went green easily took him but wooot the guage went back to normal. The thing that still worries me is that tappet noise though. When i did a service (4300kms ago) i couldn't get the oil filter off (I've never had this prob before with other cars) so i decided to leave it and just replace the oil. Car drove fine and no ticking was evident until the last few days. Could this be the culprit? I used Penrite HPR 10 10W-50 Semi-Synth. Thanks.