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yeh i tapped off the wrong one at first as well ...was tapped into the spark ...but also make sure its tuned in by turning the variable resister

gotta get that book i think ...specially if im gonna do the air fuel controller

ahh k so u use the resitor to drop the voltage across the solenoid ....but then doesnt the ibc switch more than the 3 amps its rated for ?

load sharing ..whats that

you prob find 1 at your local pc place ...if not they could get 1 in easy as ...25 pin serial cables aint sommin u find everyday now because its all usb and firewire now ...i git 1 here from a local electronics place ....was bout 14 bucks for a 3 metre one

yhe make sure u get the straight thru 1 ...no fancy crossovers

yeh mine had the same ...cant for the life of me find where it goes

ahh well figured it out .....wrong ecu pin ...bloody number1 spark not injector ..for fks sake ...one lesson in this ..dont try and figure things out when your on call and had 9 hours sleep in 2 days ...its not a good mix

yeh checked all my wiring and circuit board ...checked resistors...checked diodes all good ....put 12v + across to input and led goes off ...im sure because on the r33 ecu ,the injector number 1 wire (which ive done a continuity test to the injector itself ) that goes to the gate ,hasnt got enuff grunt to trigger off the input ,as looking at the ignition drawing for the r33 it triggers a gate which then switches 12v across the power transister to the primary coil on the coil pack....which is 12 volts ...so will be supplying the input straight off the primary side of this coil 2 morrow to see if it works

hey do u hook up the injector input at the ecu ie the gate of the transistor or the output of the transistor ie the injector itself ...cheers in advanced

does the ecu protect from overboost on a r33 ....im not sure how this works ...does it measure boost somehow or does it do it with the fuel cutout ..ie more boost more fuel needed = fuel boost cut or does one of the vacumm lines of the intake manifold run to a boost cut device somewhere ...just want to make sure before I finally hook up the solenoid into the system....cheers sydneykid ..oh by the way i was reading an old nz forum thread ...did u ever do a blower /turbo boost setup and if u did how did it go man

has any1 here tried the ibc with a normally open solenoid ...the reason i ask is that if any part of the circuitry fails or the solenloid itself then on a normally closed solenoid it will stay just that,normally closed and A: blow the turbo if you have a standard rb25dett like myself and/or B:create massive amounts of boost ...allright i guess if u have a boost cutout but i dont either hey sydneykid ..do you think the way you have done it that u could set that 1 way valve to a max boost pressure and doing that create a fail safe type system as i would really like to go with the normally closed solenoid as im convinced it will give better and boost and faster spool up than the normaly closed

yeh im thinking of getting a jaycar dfa .just setting up one of their electronic boost controllers now ...plugged it in 2nite and all works ...sweeet ....now just need a boost solenoid valve and im away

hey just thinking about bigger injectors and having to remap the air fuel because the bigger injectors will make the car run richer because the afm and ecu are designed for a certain size injector ...but what if you by snuck air around the afm that it wasnt sensing in proportion to the increase of the injector size ie if u upgrade from 370cc injectors to 440 cc injectors then u are upgrading your injectors by about 19 percent ...now if you bypass 19 percent of air past your afm then wouldnt your air fuel ratio be pretty much spot on with the factory settings ...can any1 see a down side to this ...is this feasible ?