Spoolup

A flat top piston with a 1mm ( compressed head gasket - as in a std OEM ) will achieve 8.1:1 - 8.2:1 with your combustion chamber size. As does the CP flat top piston. To achieve around 9.0:1 you will have to have an around 6 to 7cc dome on your piston.

Give Wil at JHH Performance a call. They can build your engine to your budget.

3.046 inchs = 77.3mm 86.5mm = 3.4 inchs that could be a problem

1. The RB26 solid lifters dont work on the RB25 VVT head - without major modification. Tomei make solid lifters for the RB25 VVT head. 2. I am making 700 bhp plus with 272 cams with smallish lift of 9.35mm, with std valves 3. The gearboxes are incredible strong and will handle the power you are looking for plus a couple hundred hp more - any box will eventually self destruct if severly abused with with massive rpm launchs etc.

Yes you can mate it to the RB30 block( it has been done numerous times before ) , it isnt as straight forward as an RB25 head. It is a pointless exercise though as there arent any real gains using the small post small valve RB20 head.

Can you explain the Honda S2000 oil squirter process ?

Did he have it blue plated and the engine numbers swapped to his rego papers. They can defect you for a RB25 in a R33 if the engine numbers do not match - its just revenue raising and bureaucracy bull shit, but you got to live with it.

Mine is reg'd in Qld - I had it blue plated ( approved modification ) and new engine number tranferred to registration papers. Like its already been mentioned - changing the bottom end shouldnt be a problem as its basically just a stroker crank ( well In Qld anyway ).

Just a qik ques ? Wouldnt returning the oil from the back of the head to the turbo side of the sump be a better option - as that would be the side that the cranks rotation would cause a vacuum ( well not a real one ) as opposed to the inlet side where it would be causing a pressure increase. It is the same side as the oil return from the turbo. I only ask as Im about to do this to my engine

Hey Michael, I think a better idea is to have the piston crown ceramic coated. Gary has also suggested and tried this I believe. There is a shite load of oil being spalshed around inside an engine at 7000 plus rpm, so lubrication shouldnt be an issue. I will be going the ceramic way with my new engine, as I will be running a higher comp and dont want any detonation issues.

Mine is 89 db, 3.5 inch dump into 3.5 cat, resonator and than muffler. Custom Exhaust Specialists

I used all my studs. 25000 km old and still going strong.

Interesting.. I met my supplier at a trade show in Taiwan and deal with him there. Im now presuming they are made in China :-) and sold out of Taiwan. Which is ok with me as per the info above and the quality of my conrods. Paul - as you are aware all my rods were perfectly sized and of the several hundred sets I have sold, I have never once had an issue with sizing. So how ever they are machined ( which I will find out and let you know ) it is working fine. My supplier does not supply with bolts and will not even if I ask. They are machined at the specified torque as I have asked that question before. They say they can not supply bolts as good as ARP so leave it to me to source them here. Thanks for the info. Cheers

I think it is just the tappet cover designs - maybe the breathers. The difference between the heads are: R34 are solid lifter R34 has different valves R34 has smaller combustion chamber R34 has a different setup to feed oil to the VCT soleniod R34 has different valve springs And prob some others Ive forgotton

No idea what the NEO part stands for - But they are a solid lifter head - the valve runs off a solid lifter that runs off a solid cam lobe.

Interesting - but I can assure you this technology is not in any R34 NEO heads except for the vaires timing and duration - the lift is fixed.

VVL - Im ( And Im sure alot of others ) are keen to hear how that one works - pls explain.

keep us posted - Im about to do the same thing.

Is that oil drain dash 8 or 10 ?

They are fine - similar to SPOOL rods. Any good quality forged H Beam will suffice. Everyone is allowed to voice their own opinion - as long as its an informed opinion and not something there uncles, brothers, nephews mate told them :-)

No upgrade as the slotted cut outs are bigger on the new ones to accomadate the bigger bolt - just keep the bigger washers :-)

lol .. yeah it worked but I wasnt happy with the design. The new ones are better.

The new ones like Dans have the bigger bolts and washers fitted.

Guys - have a look at this - it covers all the info you need to know. They are not Eagle rods, they are not Scat rods - see the pics in the link. Competition Tuning here is Bris have an FJ20 making near 600rwhp with SPOOL rods now - thats near 200bhp per rod. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ny...html&st=100 Any questions email me [email protected]

Not sure what the charge is to grind the crank snout and fit a collar is - as I had mine built up and machined and that was approx $250. Grinding is around $150 ish Nitriding is around $350 ish as the crank has to be ground, nitrided and then reground to size. Those prices are ball park figures. Ring and ask for Dave.