ellie

Probably best to e-mail the guys at just jap! always helpful! The common thing that most complain about is the noise and rough feel as the standard stick is quite nifty! It has the shifter end out of the gearbox then between the gearbox part and the handle part it is pack with a high density rubber which stops gearbox niose and harsh feel Not explained very well :PBJ: gear knob gear stick rubber noise and vibration insulator gear stick gearbox So check if it has this or you'll get a constant whinning

Or you can do what I did and buy a second hand GTR intercooler and have the pipe work made up! Cost my friend only $600 all up. But if your capable like me than you can get an R33 GTR intercooler, make the pipe work up yourself (the hole required to cut has factory reinforcement around it because it's where GTR pipe work comes through standard and has been blocked off on the GTS-T - So safe,clean and structually sound! Plus the bonus I got from making up custom pipework was the 120degree to plenum set up which has been proven to cut at least 5L from the intake path = less lag) and all up cost me including getting my front bar intake hieghtend to give maximum air flow over the intercooler and resprayed = $650 = for a fully custom job!

I've been sidelined for a little bit but I think Im going to go with Mt. Cotton training as total driver seem to have fallen off the face of the earth! Does anyone know what happened to them? And what courses have you guys done and how do you rate them? In QLD!

Friend of mine had the exact same problem and I think you'll find (If you searched) that the handbrake gives a yellow light and brake fluid gives the red light and his was only marginally low but would come on around turns, over bumps etc. Topped it up = fixed

Jaycar, autobarn or any audio visual shop! Northfield etc. will all have it!

Your lack of intelligence does not surprise me! Nor does the fact that your immediate response to someone voicing an opinion (good,bad or indifferent) that doesn't align with yours, must mean that they're intellectually challenged with a predisposition to suicide! I was just stirring because it looks just like every other 300ZX on the road, a rushed under cooked wedge looking thing suppose to hold a candle to the other sports cars of its era! I was stirring shit! So consider yourself "a piece of shit" and consider yourself "stirred"! :laughing-smiley-014:

Hooray, for another waste of a thread! Can I have that last minute of my life back?

What I want to know is, why are S13's with SR20's selling for no less than $15,000 and an R32 skyline in good nick with a superior design can be had for around $8-10,000? As far as I can see, It's because it's getting much harder to find a good example of an S13 but does that mean that as more and more skylines become drift hacks that a well kept example will shoot up as well? Personally, I think not!

Just on the Q.T , I know a few skylines are going to be heading down the coast tonight! RB25 silvias,WRX's etc.

300kg + If you start stripping it! Power to weight is where its at! Oh yeah!

Cries for starlet! I had a good chat with him and it was a wicked little ride which was pulling some quick times for the lack of mods. Did he loose the rear end? Because I mentioned to him about the perils of running semi-slicks on the front and road tyres on the rear! P.S. It was good to meet you guys!

I agree with waz! I took my stock as a rock R32 to a mate of mines workshop who is an absolute skyline guru and he established very quickly that the O2 sensor heating element wasn't earthed properly, TPS wasn't adjusted as good as it could be, timing was out slightly and idle hadn't been set up correctly giving a slightly high hunting idle. All of these things hadn't caused any running abnormalities that i could notice before the tune but boy, did it go good after! Well worth the time, effort and money!

I was lucky enough to score an owners hand book with my car which tells you to start the car and as long as the oil pressure light goes out, drive off! From my mechanical knowledge their are several reasons for this, one of which "cubes" covered = if the motor is cold and left to idle it can glaze your bores etc. And another one that alot of people don't think about (or don't care because they've gutted thiers) is melting your catalytic converter. when warming up your car by idling the motor is pooring fuel down the exhaust which is still relatively cool a collects in your cat. Then as it heats up it gradually evaporates and burns inside your exhaust and heavily fuel lined cat which over time melts it! I see this a lot on the larger capacity european cars which run that much richer during warmup due to the super cold start ups they're designed for! As is widely known through the automotive comunity " 90% of engine wear occurs during start up and warm up", so it's always best to follow manufacturers instructions as they know what they've built and the best way to look after it. Why do you think cabbies get phenominal kms out of a motor before any serious work is required? because they (business going well) don't ever get the chance to cool down. So less wear!

OK guys, I see everyone else isn't having dramas fitting their head units! I'm more than capable of all the wiring but the dilema i'm having is when my car was imported, it had only the A/C control period! No brackets, no nothing so what I want to now is- - - How has everyone mounted their headunit? Is there a generic part that can be made to fit? Is everyone custom fabricating their mounts, etc?

Read your initial post and emediately was suspicious of you AFR and then read on to see SK had the same suspicion. By that he means if you have a dyno run with a standard (untampered) engine management in a skyline usually, off boost will show very lean due to the tune for idle/low revs emmissions then as boost comes on it swings heavily into the rich to safegaurd the motor under all variances of conditions. And still will be a wavy line and not a smooth curve where as you AFR's are almost perfectly flat through your rev range which leads you to the conclusion that things have been tweeked before!

Careful!!! You'll end up like thoughs "not so tough now" bouncers on murderers row tomorrow!

I saw something like this on an australian gardening show! I think they called it "Tall poppy syndrome"!

Top effort to make a tutorial! If I could add that where you went wrong was - you should remove the driveshaft completely which is only 4 bolts on the diff and bash your drive shaft out with a drift. Then with your hub/bearing assembly still bolted in use a slide hammer to pull the hub from the bearing. Then with your driveshaft removed it's easy to get at the 4 bolts of the bearing and replace it. But obviously you need a slide hammer and a long treaded rod with bearings to press the hub back in. So awsome effort with what you had!

My car came with a genuine GTR rear wing but I later removed it because everyone had huge aerofoils etc. Then after a short while, everyone went wingless including a lot of GTR's because it makes a GTS-T look wider and lower! (Not by any means sugesting that I'm a trend setter as my car sits in the garage ALOT). So now every ones wingless, I put mine back on as I don't see many 32's sporting a GTR wing! I also debadged my car because I like the smooth understated (wolf in sheeps clothing) look. None of this was done with the intension to fake GTR status but more as an attempt to make my car appealing to me! In the subject of how my car looks = I don't care what other people think because it's MY car and MY money. I see it all day on prestige cars with M Power and AMG badges on the lowest spec. car of the range with some cheap muffler banged on the back willy nilly! Now there are a couple of funny things about this 1. Being that usually these cars are worst the maintained clapped out bangers that come through the workshop & 2. The type of person that would notice the badge and be impressed by the real model it represents would also very quickly identify that it's just a dunger with a badge and the frase "What a tosser" comes to the mouth without further thought! It is personal choice but you're making the choice to say to the rest of the world that you feel inadequate and you need a badge to feel bigger in the world and keep up with the jones's! I do agree with a previous post though, that a GTR badge is better than no badge if there is a defined spot where there should be one.

You'll have more luck in the spotted thread!

Oh come on! This is a good thread for once, retract your claws and be the bigger man I have no idea what goes on at an event like this but I like surprises, so count me in if thats cool

Unsure of what fuse to check but there are plenty of translated fuse boxs on the forum! The turbo timer may of had a thermo switch on the radiator to only allow the turbo timer to work above a certain temp. If it did and you pulled it off or disconnected it your turbo timer won't run until it gets the signal from that thermostatic switch! Hope it helps

There is quite an obviuos difference between P/S and Hi-cas. When the Hi-cas is removed, some people remove the control unit as well unaware that it also has a role to play in the P/S system. The control unit controls the speed dependant power assisted steering (makes the steering light at low speeds and gradually assists less as you go faster making your steering heavier and giving more feel.). So when you remove the control unit, you also remove this function. so it defaults to the heaviest setting all the time! Hope that helps!

But it cuts three seconds off their quarter mile times! Fully sic

Can't buy em new and go for the R34! Taste is in the eye of the beholder but they look great, go great and are the youngest of the family!