ellie

Too bloody many! My car used to be worth something and now it'll make a good paper wieght when I get sick of it!

Easy, don't buy it! Seriously, If they're trying to sell it like that, something smells sus and would probably be well worth steering clear of! And you'd have to ask yourself how long this has been allowed to occur and what damage it has done?

stathoscope lol you mean stethascope dont you champ You just can't help but make a fool of yourself! Before I failed year two, I was given a dictionary. Maybe you should invest in one before you bag people! Stethoscope, noun. Instrument for listening to action of heart, lungs etc. Stethoscopic is the adjective! English leason over! I wish you good luck and bid you fair well. It's been very educational.

The tutorial section of "How to attach images to your posts" has no pics to guide the novices like me! As do none of the tutorials for that matter. Are they able to be recovered or are they goneskies?

My gearbox was tempremental shifting into 2nd. When dead cold it would have a slight choke when engauged the first couple of times then would be fine. I've now canged the oil with a nulon additive and it engauges from cold alittle smoother but after a couple of spirited shifts that didn't quite engauge 2nd and munched it, it now has become a tempremental gear all the time so now I have to baby second which is begining to grate on me. I highly suspect 99% of the damage had been caused well before I got my hands on the car and second gear as it cops a fair whack of torque and usage has lost the effectiveness of its synchros so is now crunching on engaugement. Unfortunately there's only one way it can go from here! Which puts me in the same boat as you guys = 2nd hand gear box (unknown condition) Reconditon (pricey at best) Rb25 box (same as GTR, strong but once again risky and pricey)

Ouch, that's a bit nasty! My appologies. I was flicking between threads and e-mail and lost track of what I was doing. No need to go insulting people though, even if i didn't pass year two! For some decent advice though, your best bet is to get under the car and get a second party to rock the car AGAIN and listen to where exactly it's coming from. Then if you can source a car stathoscope or I'd highly recomend you buy one (only $20approx.) as you'll find it forever useful, pin point exactly where the noise is coming from! As by checking things willy nilly it will be a long process to fix due to the multitude of things capable of clunking in the rear end. From something as major as subframe bushes to something as minor as a handbrake cable touching the fuel tank! Oh and just for the record, "Whell", as in your post doesn't have an "H" in it.

If you're on street tyres and obviously a novice to drag strip racing then run normal street pressures will be sweet as dropping pressures on street treads won't get you very far until you're competent on the strip and chasing that last 10th

Why don't you get under there and get some one to rock the car! Would be a lot more affective than hoping someone on here has a miricle cure. If it is an audible knock that you can hear while rocking the car it should be a piece of cake to hear when you're right under there with it!

What a load of horse @$#@! Why post if you have no idea what you're spouting! The only time you should ever run less presure in the rear than the front is in a drag situation with the right tyres and suspension set up to handle it. For tyres of that staggered size front to rear on the street, I'd recommend 36psi in the front and 38psi in the rears for even tyre wear, best handling and best fuel economy. 40 and above is too much and too rougher ride for the street plus at those pressures and your width of tyre it's highly likely that you'll get over inflation wear. On to you problem at present. Your tyres, although being of the cheaper (nastier) variety, they should be quiet when new especially being new, balanced and wheel aligned! So i'd be heavily leaning towards rear wheel bearings! With new tyres eliminating the old tyre growl you can now hear the wheel bearings. You typically hear them at highway speed as they're spinning at high speed making them more audible. I'd jack the rear of your car up so your rear wheels are off the ground, sit the rear on jack stands and chock your front wheels and spin the rear wheels up to 100km/h and I'll bet you hear the growl still Hope that helps

I haven't had any first hand experience but have a few friends that have raced competetively! From what i've been told, it is relatively cheap to gets started but it's the maintainance that kills you! As they are so evenly powered any advantage you can get is vital. But advantages usually come with a price tag. For example, I've been told that if you want to run at the top consistantly you at least have to have a new set of tyres each round and don't think because they small they're any less expensive! So it can get costly, no where near a car mind you. But they also said if you just want to get out there for some fun wheel to wheel action and aren't conserned with being the next lowndesy, it can be an economical and extremely fun form of motorsport! I'd love to get into it but as I posted before, I'm tall and heavy so I already have an anoying disadvantage. Little buggers zipping past me on the straights

A lot of cars run a battery in the boot (wieght distribution). 0 gauge is huge over kill, it would be approx. 2-3cm thick and good luck getting it through any where let alone around any tight fitting bends or trims! Any way, if you haven't noticed the cars wiring (positive and negative) on an R32 is 8 gauge at best to the terminals. 4 gauge is ideal - large enough to not drop voltage but appliable and the correct size for aftermarket battery terminals. And 4 gauge is what most factory cars run for there main power cables (batteries, starter motors etc.). Running it under the car is illegal and emencely dangerous if the wire was to be exposed (especially in an accident!) As previously mentioned, your battery is on the drivers side so run it through where the picture showed you! Don't be lazy and pull your seats out, lift you carpet up and lay the wire correctly as the main wiring loom to the back is there so it's easy to follow all the way into the boot I would go the extra mile to and take the chance to improve your cars electrical capability and replace your earths and add a few new ones with black 4 gauge wire as all your motor electronics earth through your motor to earth lead to chassis so if you have a better connection and more of them you may be surprised at the difference. Thats what those earth kits are for! To be honest with you, I'm going to be doing this in the near future too and haven't looked at how I'm going to mount my battery and case in the boot so if you do yours, post pics or tutorial! Hope that helps

Hey harry, congrats on the results! You replied to my thread in the motorsport section and I was hoping to come out and check out the action on the 21st to sus it out. If your going to be there, I wouldn't mind having a chat about getting involved myself? No pressure, just easier to talk to some one involved than feel my way in the dark!

The middle one is exactly my aquantances minus the pin striping on the side. That would be a big can of adrenalin racing on dirt in the dark. Ohhh Yyeeehhhh!

My stocker!

OR. . . . A strut brace is a good handling upgrade so why not kill 2 birds with one stone and buy a strut brace with a master cylinder stopper on it! Cost me $170 on avisit to sydney.

I have to agree with Roy on the karting. Awsome fun and probably the most economical form of motor sport but when your 6foot2inches and wiegh 90kgs you have little chance of being competetive. And yes be in it for fun but when your constantly outlaying money you want to win or at least be in the fight! Tyres alone would send me broke!

Keen as mustard now to get out there. For my sake though, I just have to get on to GTRgeoff and remove this flaming Hi-cas! I'll definitely E-mail paul but the ownious is on me for now to fit all the stuff sitting on my bedroom floor! If only I could figure out how to bend time! Thanks guys for your positive responses! I think the R32 is going to be in the stable for a while yet so it's time to have some fun! ! !

Thems fighten words Roy :laughing-smiley-014: Funnily enough, one of the guys at work has just completed the initial part of his restoration of a mk1 escort with the 2L cosworth motor in it and it absolutely flies! spins the tyres no worries and is a bunch of fun but then you try and turn it and i remember why i love new technology so much! LOL!

Hands down, a Starlet GT turbo! A friend just got one and I love it. The ultimate suburban warrior with subtle mods it eats my skyline and another friends WRX with the added bonus of lightwieght fuel economy! But If I was in your money bracket, I'd have a deposit on the new BMW Z4 M-Coupe due very soon. Feels like sex to drive and looks like sex from the side walk! They'll beg you for a lift.

Thats because they're like ass holes!

To make a car look truely wide and tough I think you need deep dish rims. Especially with wide gaurds! And if you've just spent that much money on what is essentially only for looks than you should make the effort to really set it off with some deep dish rims. Sell your old ones and I doubt the difference would be all that much if you shop around!

Ok then, thanks anyway!

As stated I'm looking for some one to tell me what this turbo is. Unfortunately I can't give you a photo. It's an APEXI AX53B70! I found it on a variable valve RB25 at the local wrecker who have no idea of it's value and was thinking of getting it Does anyone know? I suspect the ID numbers represent the A/R's, so a 53/70 turbo It has an adjustable wastegate actuator rod and the standard dump with internal wastegate, Braided oil and coolant hoses.

I personally wouldn't want them to refit and bleed just as much as they want the liability. As I like to know its done to my level of satisfaction which is much higher than a mobile tradey who would make great lines but not care about the car itself! You have options though 1. if you can take them off yourself, do it and just give the guy the hoses to replicate 2. Find someone with lines off that you can borrow and get them made up then do a direct swap. . .or 3. Do what I did for a friend - he wanted an R33 brake upgrade to his R32 so we took it off the road for a bit and removed the brakes, approx. $25each for 200SX caliper rebiuld kits, sent the calipers for HPC coating and had the line made up when we got them back. Replicated the rears off the old ones and custom new ones for the R33 caliper front end. Jas makes a good point about the plastic sheath over the lines but my friends had it so I didn't think to mention it Hope that helps somewhat

I think the forum should start a section caled "The Tool Shed" and put people like this with threads like both of his in it to make it much easier for the cops to cull the shit from these forums! Not only did he start one thread and got flamed but he though it prudent to post esentially the same thread again in yet again the wrong section! And here's news for you idiot - That air strip isn't going to be so unknown now you've posted it on the world wide web!