ellie

that's what it's for on the R33 but it should be more like 1-2mm not 1cm!

Hey mate, I'm from brissie too and there are mobile guys that will come to you and make up lines for you! I've been quoted $50 a corner at mates rates but i would imagne that it'd be nomare than $60-70 a corner. Pretty good I reckon considering you don't even have to get off the couch.

See hundreds of these and I don't like them in general. occasionally you'll get a good batch but they're prone to corigation and if your tyre pressures ever creep out of the optimal setting, they feather more then a bird in summer! the moral of the story is = keep those tyre pressures up and they will be a good street tyre. Plenty of grip with low wear but i wouldn't imagne that they would be an ideal track tyre Hope that helps and saves you from a noisey ride in the future

So what about standard rotors? All for of my rotors are practically new so are you able to get them slotted?

I've been quoted $225 each for RE55's. but thats at work affiliated prices Those briggies potenzas are around that price ( the one that come on Sti's from factory) and they're grippy as hell! No experience with your selection though. . . sorry!

I think what most are trying to get at is the intercooler it self won't actively give you a power increase but by fitting it you will enable the motor to produce the power it's capable of by removing the restrictive, heat soaked and poorly positioned factory unit! An aftermarket unit will A, generally flow better due to the piping and larger core size/design . . . . and B, cool better due to sheer size and positioning for max air flow through it So the combination of a cooler charge and less restriction (less pressure drop) = a cooler slightlty higher pressure charge at the manifold which we all know means a better burn and more power! And alot more consistant charge temps to boot!

Put an even smaller turbo on it

Exactly what I'm talking about! Piles off fun with out worrying about righting off your big dollar road car! I think 13B turbos and engine conversions are going to get costly and remember that it will be scrutineered

I've taken insperation from Roys' post in my other thread! If you were to have a sedate run of the mill car for normal use (eg. starlet) so that you could build up a weekend warrior to very regularly participate in motorkharna, skid pan days, trackdays, to dutton rally, targa even what car would you realistically choose? Now, I have to set a few loose guidelines= 1. It would have to be on a tight budget - More emphasis on D.I.Y (By tight, I mean cost effective. Fun/$) 2. parts readily availible - And hopefully cheap 3. Be a good all round performer Etc. etc. Roy may want to elaberate but he said he would have got a mark 1 escort! And i toyed with the idea a while ago with the OLD old CRX with the 1.6 VTEC in it. Stripped, roll cage, seats, suspension, brakes etc. For example= A friend of mine Built the puma clubman with the SR20DET from SYD. for about $22G all up. (same as in hot 4's ages ago) Quicker than a Farrari! What would you get?

Ideally thats what I actually would prefer to do as I am capable of doing the work myself but unfortunately I find myself in a rather depressing situation. I bought my car at a premium price for a stock clean example just before the market was flooded so if I now sold my car I would estimate at least an $6-8000 loss straight up! My last car cost me a cartoon of beer and never missed a beat or cost a dollar for two years. I now ease the cost of the car by getting around 90% of the time on my trusty postie which is the best weapon I have ever bought all be it very impractical to carry things, get dressed to go somewhere nice and of course when it rains! So now I face the dilema of 1. sell the car (which I'm positive would be a long and painful process) and cut my losses 2. Settle in for the long haul with a car I didn't intend on keeping for longer than a couple of years 3. Start spending money on the car to get it to a state i'm happy with but will never see any financial return on I tend to treat my vehicles pretty well but I'm tired of seeing my car as a financial loss instead of fun, hence this thread = time to get out and enjoy it!

There's a lot of ideas there i Hadn't considered! Thanks guys and motorkhana's are the witches hat runs aren't they?

Cheers pred. just got to give the Hi-cas the boot! pain in the arse system.

I'd add braided lines to your list at only $50 a corner done on car if you want, You can't go wrong! I'd also go the same as JL newton and have hawke pads all round But as it always comes down to Jas, it's your money Sounds like a good list otherwise.

If you have one yourself than it is a legal requirement that it be displayed on the car somewhere. Usually a little plaque in the drivers door pillar.

I smell a current draw issue!

That seems to be along the lines I was thinking except for the circuit tuition which I was unaware even existed so I'll definitely have a look at that! So I think the basic plan to upgrade car skills for me is = 1. advanced driver training. Approx. $200 which If I'm not mistaken teachs you how to control power slides (accidental ofcourse). 2. a skid pan day to get used to the cars behavour under a limited grip situation 3. maybe a track day at QR to learn the racing lines, braking capabilities etc. 4. a track tuition course so that i'll already have a feel for the track from the track day and be able to build from there From then on I guess it's practice, practice, practice! for your responses guys and if anyone has any more ideas/suggestions, post away!

True but a talent only becomes a talent when you develop it! Guys like doohan,brabham and jim richards didn't just fall into a car and were fast. It was a long, sometimes very destructive path to the top. Get in there and try it, I would agree is the best way to learn but what I'm asking is in what? I don't intend on being a great in motorsport, I just want to be able to take my car out and push it within it's limits but have the car be the limiting factor, not my ability! So where did you learn your skills? As Dave said he got into racing through a few contacts and family assistance. The end goal will be road rally but for someone who is super green in the world of racing/rally, what do you recomend to pick up the basics of car control on the edge?

Hey motor sport guru's and enthusiusts, I'm a young mechanic and have done a few different defencive driving courses through work and would rate myself as a very capable driver and able to learn fast. I'm strongly against flogging a car on the streets unless it's targa or the like but I would really like to get others experiences and advice on what path they took and how effective it was but more importantly what you would now recomend to do to develop driver talent/experience as I would love to get into dutton rally etc. Would you recommend skidpan days, track days, advanced driver courses etc.? P.S. I'm in QLD and own an R32 GTS-T Cheers in advance

Go T20 - It looks awsome, especially on a black car! And if your a mechanically able person you can remove your door trims and barter some money off. also barter money off for cash. But the big thing I would encorouge - Have you noticed you have two diagonal stripes up your window from your window guides like every other skyline I've ever seen? Then remove the guides an thuroughly clean them of all oilly, dirty residue and refit but also see if you can get the stained window glass polished to remove the streaks! Shouldn't cost much and you'll have the most individual skyline on the street if you accomplish this!

Just cut the hole on the right side you pussy! LOL!

What I want to know is = there was a huge thread on fitting RB26 cams in an RB20 with no success, many breakages, cars would only stall for the very few that got them in and with the eventual revelation that you also needed to convert your entire valvetrain to a solid lifter setup! So my question is with now seeing a few people successfully running this setup, how did you get it to work and how did it run? Cheers in advance!

finally someone thinking on my level.... lol i dont need other people to spend my money for me If you don't need people to spend your money for you, why are you asking people what mods. They cost money last time I checked! i allready decided what i want to do, just what power i'll get and perhalps some slightly better mods that i could do other then the ones i listed You don't need to waste another thread then as the path to power on an RB20 is a WELL trodden path! im doing this more as a bit of an experiment.. you dont hear of alot of gts-4's i wouldnt mind seeing what they can do... There are heaps of GTS-4's out there. Are you blind? Only most I've seen through the workshop have had an RB26 slotted in before import because they're such a slug im getting the feeling it will be same weight as gtr with less torque and more throttle lag... but oh well,... its still gonna be interesting... wouldnt mind seeing what happens with turboX's gts-4 after dr.drift is finished with it No need to just feel it's a fact! -Ruffels

Stuff the GTR = Bloody deep pockets Sell the GTS-4 and buy a slugg. Then Buy an S15 when the license permits which responds better "bang for buck" wise than any skyline Don't get me wrong, I love my skyline but it's a tough streeter (super tourer), as they were designed (except the obvious model) Not a weapon!

Turbo timers can be useful if you're an impatient person but tangles has it right! The best turbo timer you can have is your self! Before the flurry of posts come in, think about it. As well as the air flow over the engine/turbo what else cools the motor. . . . Correct. Oil and coolant, so you need air flow through the radiator for effective heat transfer. If you've just had a spirited run and you pull in and shut off - while your car sits idling it will only retain the heat or if your motor or fans viscous hub isn't in such good shape your engine will struggle to regulate temps. Where as if your controlled enough to drive sedately for the last few minutes of your drive, your engine will cool significantly quicker due to the increased heat transfer via the radiator. Those with an oil cooler are better off again. And I have tested this with oil, water and exhaust temp gauges in my car All that that said, If you drive hard and don't want to slow down before stopping than a turbo timer is better than nothing as the engine is hot but as I've seen from the exhaust temps, the turbo is much hotter and the run on period does disperse the heat to other parts of the motor slowly to bring turbo temps down.

Because most have had experience with them and better quality things have come out of a cows arse! Seen heaps fail within weeks of installation and have seen only one go in and is still running strong after 6 months.