ellie

My question is about the diesel. What is it like to clean off because I remember hearing once that it's an absolute money less whore to get off if it dries? any paint damage?

White r32 turning into graceville avenue this morning. GTR wing, bonnet and grill with m-spec front bar

may not be the answer you were looking for but i think that for the money you would spend on either system you would be better off getting a custom turbo back exhaust made up. I just had a friendly chat around the place and found a shop I liked at the price i liked with the set up i liked. $1000 dollars flat later I had a system that i'm really happy with! Split dump, stainless biscuit cat 3.5", side by side resonator and canon muffler all in stainless steel. NOTE: if you want a loud tough exhaust = go a hot dog and cannon combo but for a sweet note that doesn't intrude = get the straight through side by side set up. If I had my time again, I would buy the split dump and stainless biscuit cat of this forum (batmobile?) and get a cat back the same as I have now made up. I approximate the cost to end up around the $1100 mark Hope that gives you a different angle

Than an R32 is ideal as they are very reliable (if driven respectfully) and if you can find a clean example with suspension, breathing and cooling mods you'll have a top streeter! should be able to find one for under $10G IMO. Thats what I'm forced to do now as I payed way to much for mine to resell. Like good japanese tuners do with the standard turbo retained, make an awsome streeter but thrifty!

Me thinks you running standard CPU Me thinks you gots a classic case of retard and enrich me does To much boost perhaps Anything ringing a bell

I have an R33 gtr intercooler I'm going to fit to my R32 GTS-T. I can weld so I'm gunna buy the new exhaust piping which is an alloy/stainless mix so is very light, good heat dissipantcy and easy to weld. Then for joiners your best bet is to go to a truck/diesel shop because silicon turbo grade joiners are half the price with twice the selection! Then if you don't mind the extra small cost, get them hpc coated but I'm gunna have a go at polishing them up Food for thought any way!

To be honest mate, I only skimmed over your post but the jist was = going to spend $25k but don't want to borrow now so going to settle for a model you haven't even driven before! My advice not knowing your financial status = Borrow and buy an S15 silvia for $20-25k from a "GOOD" importer. Awsome bang for buck car that you don't have to settle for and you won't be dissapointed if you mod it. Heaps better than a skyline and newer to boot. And yes you can import the early ones even though they're sold in Aus. I love my R32 but they're old, most these days are trashed and not worth anything because of the huge influx of them being imported in the last year so any mods you do you will also see no financial return. If I hadn't impulse bought i would have gone an S15 for sure Alternatively if your willing to search you can pick up a warmed over R32 for considerably less than $11k and don't get me wrong, skylines are great cars but the markets fallen out of the arse for them and the potential for the S15 is much bigger for about the same out lay modification wise Only my opinion so don't have a go at me

Big thanks to Cogs for photoshop effort

Now who's laughing, Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha

Learning from the best hey! Cheeky bugger

couldn't remember if you had the pinapples or not but from memory your car was quiet, handled awsome and had the same firm ride in a straight line as mine with its standard springs and uprated shocks (on car when bought). Cheers for letting me know you did have them for our spin P.S. enjoying the job? had to do a couple of your call outs. Sick of being told "can't make it" yet?

PM sent to you 26GTS

And so you should whore it. B U T Full! ! !

Had a sweet drive with a Gun metal R32 friday night coming home from the air port. Picked up at I.C.B. and lasted till after indro bridge where he turned but I too am farken sick of the road resurfacing so didn't follow! Or should I say road demolishing and see if it grows back by itself Was it anyone on hear?

Can some one post wether after fitting the whiteline items if there was a noticable different in niose in cabin?

HHHHHeeeeellllllllllllllllllloooooo!

No offence intended and thank you for replying but your car looks a similar hieght as mine?

Get the "IGNITION DVD's", It has full run down on it. HKS everything!

Whore away Roy, Whore away! It's a good looking rig

Even seeing it photoshopped i think the wheels lend themslves toward a wing!

Sorry I haven't appeared for a few days. I've been in melbourne on business and grand prix but this has been the first chance I've had to look at something personal! Cheers for your oppinions and a big thanks to Cogs for his photoshop work! But bloody hell, now I want to change my wheels you cheeky bugger.

Familka gtr posted cheap wheels 4 sale 1 minute before you

One would suggest that there just might be a more scientific reason for wider rear wheels than the "wank factor", especially when it is common place on BMWs, Merc., Ferrari, Lambo, porsche etc. etc. I would imagine the logistics would go along the lines of= A car only wieghs so much and requires a standard of tyre and width of tyre to brake and handle to the manufacturers specifications. 2. the rear tyre has a slightly different roll of handling also but trying to tame 250-300+Kw while doing it. Hence much wider. I Know on an M3 if a skinnier tyre is fitted on the back of the same make (michies usually) you can break the car into wheel spin in a straight line just by planting the throttle but with the correct size rim/tyre on, it won't. I'm sure some one will correct me but cars that require wider tyres on the rear have a high power to wieght ratio and need the extra traction other wise the car becomes undrivable and useless to the average driver.

at a guess I would say it is a combination of your components. When my car got imported it had all 4 shocks replaced with the exel-Gs' to pass raws with the factory springs. When I drove my friends car (who had new shocks but sorced them himself and they were the same as factory valving but then fitted lowered kings) his ride was noticebly softer than mine with standard springs and KYB shocks even though his car was much lower. Then i drove a guys car that had a full whiteline kit and his ride felt exactly the same as mine. So I believe the KYBs must have a slighty heavier duty valving in it, this combined with a non-match king spring and what I would imagine is a very low profile tyre on the 18inch rim will give a harsh ride Just a thought! Hope it helps!

As the title reads! Read in an old thread that Sydneykid emphasized that the HICAS must be zeroed before an alignment and I wanted to know how exactly that is achieved?