ellie

where are you from webber cause on carsales there is an R33 yellow with black bonnet that missed out on compliancing due to an importing technicality. From memory it was in great nick for only 9G worth a look anyways

Not my primary objective either as i couldn't give a rats ass what my car runs down the 1/4 mile but being interseted in performance cars and being willing to take on an engine build i would assume that you wouldn't mind beating the guy next door. I'm not a cruiser or a street racer but it sure is satisfying when a V8 pulls up and lets a snide comment slip your way (JAP CRAP!) and you absolutely obliterate him. That was all i was implying by my comment, that with an RB30det you could knock most anything flat that came before you for what by many accounts is a cheaper and more rewarding build As i said in the post above, i would love an RB24 and wish you all the best ! On a side note: This subject comes up a lot so maybe you could document your build and any problems along the way which would give people a much more definitive idea at what is involved and things to look out for. Even if you don't i'd love to see how it turns out so post up some results etc. P.S. 1400r: have got your set up posted somewhere or could you post it here cause i'd would most appreciate it

I know personally, dispite the cost, i'd love to have a crack at an RB24 just to have something a little different and from 1400rs' account of how it drives it sounds like a barrel of fun!!! See if I lived in adeliade, I'd be hitting 1400r up for a ride in a heart beat to experience the motor and see if it's what i really want.

Valid point 1400r but to stroke the RB20 is also a massive cost if done correctly even if you're in the industry. Add on top of that the dismal flow the RB20 head has compared to an RB25 so even with extensive head work and CA18 valves (1mm larger) you could only expect close to 85% of the flow of a standard RB25. add to that again the price you would pay even at mates rates for the head work = $1000+. So yes getting the RB25 together may cost you extra up front but with a light freshen up being cheap as chips compared to borring the block, all balancing, grinding clearance on cranks and big doolar head work to get a decent result worth the time and effort, I feel in the long run you'd be better off going an RB25 or as has been suggested every time this subject has come up for around the same cost build an RB30DET weapon that any one would be affraid to line up against. Of course these are only my opinion and should be seen as such In the end you should see if someone would take you for a spin in there car that has not just what you want but what you can afford. So then it becomes a matter of what YOU want!

1400r. . . .Thank you for your response but the reason i asked for a more detailed answer was because i drive several different cars a day and being atuned to how they drive is a major part of my job so when i do something to my car i can feel the difference in response, through the rev range etc. and was just curious as to weather a hybrid motor would be a worthwhile project. I should have worded the question differently maybe by saying "I have a good Knowledge of cars in general and was hoping that some one could tell me the difference in driving characteristics between say the RB20 and an RB24? Which you duely have alraedy answered that it has more torque which in turn spools up quicker (even with a bigger turbo) which on the street although it has a lower peak power the extra turque and response of the larger capacity motor make it a much more enjoyable drive So cranks hard wasn't an adequate description for me but your second part was great so again, many thanks for your reply

Or when your talking about putting in headgaskets and such you have to pull the head off. So why not go the rb25 combo for the R32 using an RB25det bottom end with the N/A RB25 head off the late R32's. This Gives you An rb25 but you can use your standard loom, computer (remapped of course) and all your auxillaries (manifolds etc,etc.) will bolt straight up. That is the basic idea to my understanding and if you love your car enough, give the motor a freshen up while its appart to give you 200,000kms solid service instead of ?unknown Kms before you have issues. May be some one who has actually done this combo could offer a more accurate account of what is required But it would seem that this would be much more appealing than a full engine, loom and computer conversion Only an my oppinion to give you some alternatives

Are you able to describe the difference the average jo would feel on the road? I would be most appreciative

My guess: a Boost cut of sorts. What Gtstis desribing is when the car is cold the computer enrichens the mixture to keep the car running right. On the other hand in japan with their emissions the idle and just off are very lean which is why commonly when you get you car tuned with S-AFC,PFC etc the tuner will actually richen up this part of your fuel map. So when your car is cold it will feel jerky due to the computer trying to keep the mixture as lean as possible then when atmospheric preesure or above is detected the computer heavily enrichens the mixture for positive boost and an instant power hit. Feeling as though holding a horse back by a rope and then suddenly leeting go sensation! On to your current problem: I would perhaps suggest the your tettering right on the edge of the computers calculations so when the motor is cold and in a heavily richened state while hitting boost the computer thinks that too much fuel is bieng added so simultaniously there must be to much air folw so it cuts out. But once the motor warms up it's happy with the amount of fuel/air consumption hence no cut out Something to ponder over any way

I think going to the 2.5L capacity sounds most appealing using an Rb25 turbo bottom end with an R32 RB25 N/A head. allowing all your Rb20 auxiallaries to be reused with a remaped standard computer! Giving you the extra capacity with out the much larger outlay of a full RB25 swap. My 2c anyways

Has anyone on here actually experienced any of these motor combos on the road? Are they a worth while venture (more torque, better top end etc.)? I ask because I actually have a lot of what is required to build one if my motor goes pop and was keen to hear some real world, seat of your pants driving experiences (street and track). SK, you seem to have built a few. What was your initial impression of a well set up and tuned combo and which do you think would be the best for 90% street, 10% track Cheers in advance

A fmic won't save your exhast wheel fom exploding. Its turbo heat that kills it and an intercooler cools charged air after the turbo. also on boosting earlier : I wrote my response in resonse to the logic that if given a chioce to spend $1000 on a fmic or $100 on boost a increase, most would go the boost due to lack of funds which was argued before my post. After reading that i assumed that going along the lines of lack of funds that they wouldn't be fitting quality EBC's unless they've built a jaycar kit themselves! If I miss under stood, my bad as I am aware of the difference in boost curve with a decent boost controller because my jaycar version made a huge difference to the characteristics of my car.

I think there is a large grey area here were you can boost your car slightly without to much drama if you take it easy on hot days(common sense). You won't necessarily hurt the car but it is far from an ideal setup. It is a compremise more people are willing to make than spend the money on an intercooler although with proven kits to be had for 500 delivered that a teenager can fit in his back yard these days i can't see any reason for not having one. And i fail to see (even with the soloniod out of the picture) how an increse in boost will make the turbo spool any quicker? it will just continue on its normal ramp but to a higher setting

Your centre console, is it the smooth surround or the textured? cause i want a smooth one

Case and piont of my above statement! Cubes suggests with careful balance of tuning and boost control enabled him to maintain a Bar of boost where as RSTME suggests just boost it and if it blows buy a new one, so it comes down to what your happy doing to your car.

YES!

It will vary depending the condition of your turbo and the dickhead head factor of just boost it and see what it feels like. . . .POP! It has benn well documented that the ideal boost is at 0.8bar on a standard turbo. If you go higher the thermal stress skyrockets and you only gain 3-4Kw per psi from here. Before everyone goes rank : This is only my oppinion which gets proven to me day in day out with my mates 32 = breathing mods and cooler running 0.8bar remapped & tuned safely toasts a lot of 32's running one bar that that have the same mods but its all of the the shelf gear. Proof enough that simple mods done right you will reep the rewards!

Chapman & Chapman all the way Andrew is a GTR whisperer

Ooooooooooooooo! What an angry frog By the looks of this thread you haven't checked back in since you started it but if it makes you feel any better i to have an R32 with the exact same click noise from the right hand wheel as well! I'm a mechanic and have been meaning to have a crack at tarcking this gremlin down but haven't had enough time to even start the car let alone fix things for months. I also have access to a skyline Guru so i might even ask him if he has struck it before and will try to keep everyone informed On mine = when stationary engage the clutch for a brisk take off and straight away as if with the torsion applied to the rear a very quick "click,click" and also occasionally after a stong acceleration with a sudden off throttle, same thing. Once i held the hand brake on and tried it = still there = rules that out Possibly a CV but thats an awful big call when there are so many other things You'd check prior and without disassembling you car! also when ever i've had CV's clicking it does it all the time in many driving conditions. I think a pair of chassis ears will be the go. But my first port of call would be to really clean up the rear brake pads and apply brake grease to any contact surfaces and make sure they hve the shims they're supposed to!

If i was you oscar32, I would request that this thread be closed ASAP and deleted by the forum because it only serves to publicly tarnish your name and with every post it gets put to the top of the topics again and again! My 2c

The short shifter itself won't hurt the gearbox at all (if designed properly). BUT the gumbi behind the stick can! All it does is shorten the throw so you have to be much more concious of, and precise with what you're doing with your clutch and gear stick in unison. Say your a boy racer and like to smash second gear when taking off. The longer throw of the standard gear stick provides a slower, smoother engagement of your synchros' and the occasional mess up only results in a minor crunch were as a short shift will engage the gear much quicker with less movement by you working your synchros' harder and if you mess up, possibly a much nasitier result! And thats not including the current condition of the gearbox and synchros'. If you adapt your driving it can be a very useful and enjoyable mod!

Oh, and the bearings are usually mind bogallingly cheaper!

There is an industrial bearings place called CBC bearings which stock almost every bearing ever made and the gtr rear hubs are made of alloy instead of the cast in all others so there may be slightly different. Hope that helps

Yeh, thats a nice brace but i required all three functions

I had looked for such a product for so long before i got off my arse and finally made one myself! Slightly off topic but i was wondering why no one has made a product that includes the strut brace, engine dampner and master cylinder brace all in one clean package at a reasonable price? I ask as i had to fabricate one myself due to the lack of thread avalible above the strut tower. No where near enough room to fit three individual products!

Do the smart thing and go straight to the RB25 or even an RB30 if you have the money. unless you have an RB20 already then sure it's the best option Only my 2c anyways