ellie

I see you still have some sound deadening. Have you seen the dry ice trick? And I work right near you, you wouldn't have the radio brackets would you? I think the dry ice to remove sound deadener is on you tube and maybe somewhere on here. I've done both methods and the heat gun with a scraper caper gets you very high, tired then a very sore head.

A VERY BIG thanks for your response Harry! Being from queensland and seeing you drive your gtr a few times I feel confident in your recommendations. You wouldn't remember me because I only met you once a couple of years ago at one of the million Mt.cotton hill climbs you would have attended. I had (pretty much) made up my mind and just needed a little push for the final purchase. I'm fairly used to the tracking associated with stiffer sidewall tyres and I've found a happy place with 7"+35's on the front which still provides good levels of grip but barely any tracking on the front of my 32. I'll order mine today I think P.S. I respect you are an advocate of the federal brand and feel inclined to defend them but I'm 99.9% sure that Harry wasn't making a comparison of the tyres as if they were in the same catagory. More so giving a yard stick of the performance increase of a UHP tyre over a performance street tyre while remaining streetable. His comparison is actually more poignant than he realises because I've had a drive on the SS's and really liked them. As for RS-R v. KU36 = I haven't driven either but being specification comparably identical, I prefer the tread design and much cheaper price (for me) of the kuhmo.

Just buy It. Sell the front gaurds and fit the rest. The rad support is usefull to swap the gtst one out for correct bonnet latching and the gtr bar will pull around to fit snug with your gtst gaurds. you need the two mount pionts on your headlights to fit the grill also. Price seems steep though. Hope that helps

Not worth much if done on it's own but for someone that is watching their weight, a steady step in the right direction. Lightening a vehicles weight would have to be the most affective mod you can carry out.

I'd have bought this without hesitation if it was in QLD. Free bump

So how have you found the KU36's so far? because I have a full suspension set up and now need tyres to take advantage of what I've got. BUT, I mainly drive on the street and going to get into some motorkharnas etc. so I don't want it to be a pig. I have driven on V70's many times and they handled awesome on the street and wouldn't over heat on the track but found grip levels would fall away fairly quickly after a few laps. I found it to be a healthy balance for me. I can get the new KU36's cheap at around $200 a corner which is astonishing to me for what you get. They seem well siuted to a more street orientated driver with the 180 treadwear more so than a full on semi (<100). In short, how are they?

Anyone?

Thanks a lot mate. I know there are plenty of "paint my wheels" threads but I'd love for everyone to have a crack so I can get a better idea of what i'm chasing.

I'm sorry, I know the regulars must see this kind of thread a million times a year but I was hoping some one could photochop my wheels gunmetal(a touch lighter than gtr wheels) or work bronze Any help would be most appreciated and of course oppinions welcome because it is a publis forum I'll just put some photos up and let you do your thing! The white Enkeis are mine. The bronze works are for reference

Just giving this a bump to see if anyone else had some pics of there relocation? As not to impede on the boot space so much I was thinking of securing it in the LHR of the boot. I see there is a chassis rail under there and figured it ideal to have the strap around.

As the rest of the world chants. . . .Abu's a traitor, clap,clap. . . clap,clap,clap,clap!

So many key board mechanics. Meaning well = $ I own an R32 and a mechanic. You need to describe the problem as a cold start issue to anyone you see about it. My cold start has gotten progressively worse since i had mine imported. It used to roar into life when I first bought it and i've only ever treated with the best oil which I suspect has been most R32's undoing. Now when you start it first thing in the morning it will cough and fart for a few seconds until oil pressure builds up properly through the motor. So, what you, me and everyone else is dealing with is 16+years of redline abuse causing the lifters to bleed down gradually overnight. When your lifters are down your valves don't open. no air and fuel which results in no bangy bangy. When you are cranking you are effectively waiting for the lifters to refill with oil to bring them back up to operate the valves. Just an idea anyway. hope that helps. P.S. if you take it to a mechanic A. make sure it is a good one that knows skylines and B. tell them exactly what happens and when. (You cannot leave out vital information like it is a cold start issue or you are wasting thier time and your money) and C. you will have to leave the car for several days possibly, for them to experience it themselves.

very late i know, but how many are going to this? I'm keen to head out because last week was great to see lakeside for the first time and I'd love to see some good times put down in some dry weather!

How much for spectators?

I don't know how to scale the pics but here is my current car taken back in the day. . . .

When will the next skyline trackday at lakeside be held? I've just finished my suspension and brakes and would love to come out for a looksy to dip my toes in before I jump in. Is it ok for spectators to come out and watch? Cheers in advance. . . . .

No one can tell you what you will like! Simple as that. Find someone who has a set, ans go for a drive and decide for yourself. I have a jap spec set in mine and I would sleep with them if they had the neccessary parts They are a firm ride but not bone jarring as i was told. Too put it very simpley - jap specs on full soft are around 2/3rds stiff on aus spec super streets so if you do a lot of street (commuting) than i'd find something softer but if you are really going to use coil overs i think they are a great package. Hope that helps P.S. I think the biggest thing people need to do is, "get real" with themselves! Are you ever really going to see the track? Are you really a cruiser (highway warrior) or do you not commute much and enjoy the twisties?

I'll be the voice of reason here. . . Simple Fix = DOSEN'T EXIST!!! You really need to give a more detailed assessment of of what is happening (worse when hot! is it, lightly braking, hard braking, trail braking? etc.) and your ability to actually fix the problem (I would assume by asking this question you are not in the trade but can you handle, and own, tools?). Then there is what discs you have and what condition they are in (lipped? etc.). What brake pads you have. My suggestion assuming you have reasonable street pads and your discs don't have massive lips on them - Take it to a good machanic and ask them to 1, dissassemble the brake assembly and clean EVERYTHING. As in slide pins, retainer springs, ALL the shims front and back (skylines have quite a few), the pads (as in the backing where the shims go) and so on 2, deglaze your front pads by rubbing them on coarse concrete. Still the best method used. 3, #BIG NOTE# skylines have a straight edge on the bottom of there pads. This needs to have a semi moon or cresent filed out of it to match the sweep of the inner edge lip of the worn disc (1 or 2mm) 4, have the disc removed and degazed using sand paper or a biscuit wheel on both sides 5, #BIG NOTE 2# get the inner and outter lips on both sides of the disc, steel wheeled or steel biscuited as well to remove a lot of the rust and crap that builds up. And to litterally take the edge off things! 6, All contacting sufaces ( back of brake pads, both sides of ALL shims, slide pins etc.) MUST have anti-rattle grease applied (you can get it in a can) 7, reassemble and it should be sweet. 3 and 5 are the major ones to note in my opinion and from what i've seen Hope that helps a few people.

Deffinitely gold on a black car! Like there is any other choice

Sorry to drag up an old thread but I have the opposite problem and was hoping that someone could help me out? I had a gtr wing on my GTS-T when i bought it. Now removing the wing it does exactly as described above, flings open furiously! how do I get it to just pop and not fling? I have 2 torsional bars but cannot see any form of step adjustment so would i be correct in assuming that you have one bar for no wieght and 2 for a heavy wing? Any help would be most appreciated!

now that would be a cool shot without the other cars and in a lane way or deserted road! Makes you feel like the car is ready to attack at any moment.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...ie-t207661.html This is the thread I started not long ago! You really should search. Anyways, check it out! I am going to put my experience on there vary soon but to summerise = Jap spec are unbelievable! On full soft it is just a bit firmer than stock but not floaty at all. all the way to very hard and it handles like a go kart but you'll get sore after a while! P.S. Never buy tiens for an R32 from slide! 4 failed delivery dates, impossible to get hold of and will not ever get back to you, very poor service when you finally do get hold of them. I did finally get them but a couple of very frustrating weeks late

^^^^^^^^Look at the bloody time Restless night! I'll have to get back to you on finer pionts as I literally fit them in approx. 35 min after work and had to wind the fronts up a bit to even the ride out because the rear was almost standard but the fronts were very low! So height wise, was pure guesstimation #Obviously this is not recommended for most people# I'm going to get the trusty tape measure out on the weekend to set them to standard ride height so the car will retain some form of normal wheel alignment for the short interim. Just until I can get my alignment bushes in and get a hold of some scales to corner weight the car. Then obviously comes the wheel alignment! Shock stiffness = I haven't had time to play much yet! I'm a bit of a green horn to all this so, I'm just feeling my way. All I have tried is full soft and drove all the way home from work on full hard (not unbearably rough but my back was thanking me for it) I am a pussy when it comes to stiff rides though Personal opinions on a very short time so far = Soft = very comfortable, only slightly stiffer than stock but only really feels that way because you can feel the difference between a progressive rate spring and a constant + shock to match it. Very girlfriend friendly but can stiill handle very nicely. Hard = You can really feel the car follow the road. It doesn't feel particularly rough but the car does follow every undulation in the road which is much quicker than your body does. Too stiff for my liking but I am a pussy and appreciate a more compliant ride! BIG DISCLAIMER = THESE ARE ONLY MY HONEST GREENHORN OPINIONS I'll definitely keep updating hulk, but I'm sure people will get bored of every little change i try so i'll try to keep it summerised

I'm happy to report that I finally installed my tiens this arvo and in initial impressions = They are FANBLOODYTASTIC!!!! will post with more detail after a bit of driving

I've had a good set of 225's on my 7" wide rims on the front of my R32 GTS-T and I would recommend you not to fit 225 tyres! drives ok and you will probably never notice anything bad but there is a lot of side wall flex (tyre rolling off the rim) and my front tyres have gone bald on the shoulders purely from this while the middle tread appears almost brand new! ( I have a great wheel alignment and tyre pressure is always spot on). 225 on 7" = poor handling performance and bad tyre wear! Go for a 205! you will barely notice the 2cm loss of width!