ellie

Hi, just trying to find out for a friend of mine how rare these are because they have the added functions of ignition cut for rev limit instead of fuel cut to protect the motor and 0km/h rev limit for consistant launches? Both for drag racing applications. Any information would be most appreciated. . . . . . . . .

cool

I don't know if you have already bought but Brigstone potenza adrenilines are the best street tread sport compound tyres i've driven on and cheaper than the above mentioned options.

As above, I would like a set of rear gtr seats to go with my nice front set! Please PM if anyone knows of a set floating around. Must be in good condition. Cheers

I had a look through the threadbut couldn't see any standard spring rates? I'm after the standard front and rear spring rates in Kg's for an R32 GTS-T. If it has been posted but I missed it, please don't burn me!

Quote Man u guys are harsh. us poor buggers up here (north or Noosa) never get a good run. I would love to go.. But I'm not keen to drive to brizzy to cruise back! lol! Why not drive down to brissie? We're driving up there only to have to come back. Only you get the boring part over first!

I've heard before that as a rule of thumb for nissan viscous LSD's that you add 50% of the original shim thickness for a good result. Don't quote me on it just something I was "told" by a diff shop!

Not meaning to hi-jack. . . . .but I will Has anyone ever managed to find a compressor map of some discription for the RB25 turbo?

#############################FOR SALE######################################## I have a completey assembled tried and tested jaycar boost controller, hand controller, data cable and the performance book for sale if anyone is interested. I had it in my car and it works great but now i'm moving on and it has been removed from the car. I would like to sell everything together and pick up would be much prefered in brisbane. Boost controller : $60 Hand controolr : $50 Cable : $5 Book : $15 So all up, only $130 completely assembled, ready to go P.M. me if interested

Also depends on what type of gear stick you have? If you have one off those nasty E-bay quick shifts then it is a solid piece of metal and will get much hotter than normal!. . . . . No insulation like factory and genuine C's shifter.

heat soak is an issue on a side mount which is why the air guide into the cooler is very important because it rams air through it instead of it taking the easy path around it. Interestingly it pays to have a slightly smaller inlet to the guide than the face of the core to force more air through it. It's a good comparison but the average punter shouldn't get carried away with this result as a remapped ecu makes a massive difference. Not just because of the fuel mapping but also the ignition mapping which is what goes a long way towards the quicker boost build and top end power clearly seen on these dyno sheets. Great effort for your car and something well worth thinking about if your not cahasing big horsepower. congrats. Must be much better seat of you pants acceleration with such a large jump in power

Cheers guys!

My speedo cable bit the dust today in the form of a broken plastic dick behind the cluster which I would assume for its age is fairly common. I should be able to change the cable but a little guidance from someone who has tackled this themselves would be invaluable! There is the screw on drive at the gear box and the speedo drive behind the instrument cluster (white plastic assembly with an engagement spring), but where to from there? Is one end removable and then slide the rest out? Or is there more to it? Any help would be most appreciated. . . . . . . . . . Matt

If it is of any use, that performnace handbook with the WRX on the cover has a dynoed test that shows an RB20 with standard cams had its exhaust cam retarded 6 degrees (don't quote me, check it out yourself) and inlet advanced 2 degrees using cam gears which gave a little less on take off but a 20% power gain higher in the rev range. Again - can't remember exactly. Maybe someone on here has that book!

If it's tiptronic I'd move on too! But a much better option is an S15 if you want a fun car! Best of both worlds with the same price tag

I'll put myself in the 70%tile

Your a skirt Jas I'll give you 6k for your car? going once. . . . . . going twice. . . . . . We'll have to go for a fair well run some time! Edit: No offence intended but. . . .You've got the most standard looking modified skyline I've ever seen! I'd come in a close second only because of rims. I doubt the police have that greater influance on your insanity. Being a track whore I would have thought it a much better option to buy something comfortable/cruisey like a ex-fleet car at auction and something separate for the track Only a suggestion! Wise man once said = You can take the boy from the track but you can't take the track from the boy! YOU'LL BE BACK! MWAHHAHAHAHA (evil laugh)

I know of several people that run non-enclosed pods and haven't ever had a problem but I know my car (an R32 which I have retained the standard airbox with a fabricated intake to the factory spot and now a second feed via the spare intercooler piping hole) runs consistant intake temps and flows just as well but with no chance of defect and reduced noise. vacuum tests through the intake system have shown the only real restriction was the feed to the air box. So fix that and your laughing. (on an R32 GTS-T with only light mods at this stage) R33 and R34 with their diferent air box setup may find totally different results, I wouldn't know. At different power levels the field moves again and the induction bellows has even been known to suck closed. So I wasn't giving a difinitive statement saying exposed pods are bad just that any intake is always going to benifit from a DECENT cold air feed. As I said, it's your choice but would it be fair to say that if your car goes magically with an exposed pod that it might possibly go magically+1 with a sealed partition and cold air feed? I think tuning on the road is better than dyno tuning (but thats a whole other subject). I was pionting out the fact that you don't drive around with your bonnet up and a huge fan to supply an abundance of cold air to the panel therefore you can't relate it to a street applicatiopn were the panels only form of cold air feed would come from ram air only when the car is adiquately moving.

Not starting an arguement. . . . . Just food for thought! What hasn't been considered here is real life conditions. In that test the results are conclusive but it was carried out on a dyno with (what i suspect) was an open bonnet and massive fan creating air flow. But if you carried out the test in normal road conditions (closed bonnet with out readily avalible cold air in stop, start or even spirited driving) you could assume the same rule applies as for pods = heat soak and sucking in trapped very hot under bonnet air. this arguement will never be resolved if even the japanese tuners run both factory airbox's and non-enclosed pods in their high powered cars even to this day. Personally, which ever you chose, they both require sealed cold air feeds. Which one you chose depends on your own preference

Chapman & Chapman motorsports! I've seen plenty of RB26 rebuilds go through thier without return.

ouch!

Useless tid bit = 1992 gtst 10th month. Removed my hi-cas and all up wieghed 11.3Kgs with only maybe 1lL of oil, maybe 2 to be on the safe side. Just to put that speculation to rest (and thats lines, soloniod assemblies, brackets, bolts, banjos, washers - everything)

For nissan afm's you can't go past the Apexi' power intake pods and a (highly stressed) pod box with CAI set up!

SK - I have an Apexi boost control solonoid (you know how they work!) Instead of it being plumbed into the common port and hooking up the normally open or normally closed for internal or external wastegates respectively - Doyou think it would work allright if you plumb boost pressure to the NC port, COM to the wastegate and NO as your vent. Effectively when the solonoid is energised the boost pressure will be allowed to go straight through to the wastegate without any bleed off via the vent and when the solonoid is de-energised the traped air between the solonoid and wastegate can ecape via the NO(vent) port. Works exactly the same but has no bleed off on boost. The only problem I can see with this setup is that the size of the vent hole gouverns the duty cycle required! Your thoughts would be most appreciated!