ellie

As beer baron said, it really is all about thermal stress! Turbos don't just blow from high boost but the by product of high pressure (and a turbo working out of its efficientcy range) is "heat"! Good supporting mods and a little bit fat in the tune should keep tempts down for a streeter. On the track= forget it! But . . . . Judging by the original post, he has only an exhaust and just wants to boost it to its max potential without support. Big NO! Isn't thier something about the standard turbo only has a 270 degree thrust bearing and if you really want 1Bar< you should really have a 360 degree bearing?

the anticipation is eating at me! Can't wait to have one to play with!

Also what size fitting did you weld to the intercooler piping? Might be slightly smaller than factory or when you welded it on there might be some restriction in it? Maybe check and bore it out because if there is any restriction it would cause higher than standard boost!

Where are you located? How many Kms? Why selling? What boost was it run at?

Is this still for sale? Where are you?

Depends if your remap chip is rewritable? If so I would think it would be much better and cheaper to get your computer rewritten again. I don't know about being better to tune because R&R have been removed! It is a fail safe mechanism and is there for a reason!

As said above = no boost cut, just your afm reading outside of the maximum standard mapping causing rich and retard!

Sorry if this gets covered a lot but if anyone people could tell me how much gas is correct for an R32 GTS-T? It has been converted to 134a so it will obviuosly be a different amount to the R12 stats. Cheers in advance!

Suspension damage at the very worst for very bad buckles! sorry, I should of said it clearer! BUT if the wieghts are that low I'd be surprised if they couldn't have been balanced better. BUT that amount of weight on each rim is pretty good!

Within 5 grams for road use would be acceptable as you not hitting really high speeds but being a perfectionist I like to get mine to within 1 gram. BUT there are other tings to consider = How much wieght did it take to balance out the rim? General rule of thumb = 60 grams is about the maximum allowable but again I'd reduce that for high speed work and also you must consider your tyres. If it is only a small buckle, it shouldn't be a problem but if it is larger than the tyre will form to the buckle which will give you a vibe at best and start wearing struts, bushes, ball joints etc at very worst. IMO if it is only a couple of mm out and it didn't take much wieght to balance out - put it on the back and it should be sweet! What tyres did you get track whore? I was thinking of doing the same but couldn't decide wether to put semis on my stockies, Enkei's or trade my practically new sets off both sets of wheels for one semi set on the Enkei's because for road use you'll get up to about 25-30,000 kms out of a set if W/A and pressures etc. are right and I don't drive mine that often.

If you don't mind me asking a financial question? If you bought the car for only $700, how much did the whole projct end up costing you? And what happened to the R32?

Any info is always something to go on and most appreciated!

For the cost of an R33 GTR you could get a tough R34 GT-T = Newer, cheaper to run/maintain, technically the same power as GTRs stock (very different animals obviously) and RWD for skids (stupid but if it floats your boat, Why not).

Hey Gary. Did you have a dyno sheet you could put up for your R32 setup? If I had the supporting mods with an ECU remap and a JayCar boost controller instead of the PFC and associated boost controller would I theoretically achieve similar results? Cheers in advance EDIT: did you have cams with the adj. cam pulleys?

WHAT A JOKE!!!!!! :laughing-smiley-014: It's my name! You can't have it

This was the exact setup i was hoping to use for my car but i'm apprehensive because I think with the velocity of the air going through the pipe it is entirely possible that water can go straight up it as well when raining. I guess the only way is to find out next time it rains where you are. See if it does get wet anyway?

I'll definitely grab one if all works well! I'm already on the list but thought i'd restate my interest! I'll have to find out about making the K-type sensors into a sensor for the oil temp as well! So many things, so little time!

I assumed SMR33 was a guy as well alex as I see the car regularly and it always been a guy driving by himself on coro drive Quite funny really. I gave him a toot and a thumbs up but he looked totally confused!!!! Why wouldn't you recognise a fellow skyline owner on a postie bike in full riding gear!

If that is your car it would be much cheaper to remove said items and have them stripped or resprayed!

Does any body know where I can get one of these from? I asked one guy on the net in melb. where he got his and he replied "goodluck, because it was custome made for him"! Since then I have scene several in other photos of R32's in australia so he was obviously being an ass or was part of a group buy. I'm in brissie if that matters Any info would be most appreciated

thanks for the response Peter, I've been busy renovating. I had a quick look a while back when I first read this thread found those very thermocouplings but didn't mention them as I am unsure of how I would go about making the sensor end into a fitting to go into an oil sandwich plate! And haven't got around to nutting it out or finding an actual screw in sensor that is a thermo coupling Maybe someone else knows of a way or a product? Very valid points on the time trials so consider me educated!

I vote don't do it! I admit it can look good but a lot look tacky. Personally, I'm not a big fan of body kits and have minimal exterior mods which makes the rims an intergral part of the look of the car. I like having something to offset the cars colour like with your car, Gold with a polished lip/dish always gets my head turning on R33's. I wanted 18's on mine in this style of rim because it's wider and has more of a dish to it but I'm happy with the result Old pic= Black rims gives a hardcore Jap racer look but it makes it hard to see any detail of the rim which if your spending $ for the street isn't that great. Although painting many nissan factory rims is a very cheap, effective way of getting a menacing look. My 80c :laughing-smiley-014:

We use a guy called Jeff at our dealership and he is an absolute wizard on touch ups and if you mean by wax effect the rippley bubbley textured trims = I've seen him remove holes where things have been srewed into the dash to perfection. can repair rim gutter rash etc. as well New Life Vinyl! = Business name Might I add that value is in the eye of the beholder and it is a very fiddley delicate job.

I'll go back on what I posted and say that boost and oil pressure should deffinately be monitored on seperate analog gauges but if someone can find some K-type temp sensors to monitor oil temp and exhaust temp, THAT would bw very handy. I wanted an all in one display of boost pressure, oil temp, oil pressure and water temp all at a very high sample rate to give very accurate, quick read outs but that isn't what this tool is for as far as I can see! I will definately buy one of these because of the dianosis (and to a degree) tuning data it can provide. If things go amiss, you can see at a glance a fault or a dud sensor. Gauges have thier place as you can see raedings in your periphery vision fairly accurate were as a digital reading requires you to focus on it! Can I ask what the point of time trials are? Don't be mistaken, I think this is a fantastic product but am unsure of what this function is used for that you couldn't get at the drag strip?

You're in a workshop aren't you Waz? Just use an air hack saw! Glides through it like butter and much more accurate/neat than an angle grinder (rough)