ellie

I've always called them "tappet covers" because I wasn't around in the days of pushrods nor do I intend on touching one

Engine dampers have been designed for a specific reason = drift/race! As you said, "when you trump the throttle the engine aggresively twists" due to the fact that the traction of you rear wheels fights the torque (twisting power) of you motor and with your engine mounts being the most compliant (soft) part it allows a certain amount of movement to smooth things out. The harder you make the compound of the engine mount the less it will twist but the more you will feel through the car and the more strain on your drivetrain. The less twist, usually, the more torque being transfered to the drive train as less energy is being wasted. Thats why full on race cars have solid engine mounts. Engine dampers are a comprimise. You retain you cushy factory engine mounts for smooth feel at idle but when you trump it, ideally the shock will take the brunt of the twist. It could be helpful in saving your engine mounts if you're hard on your car but by mounting the engine to the body more rigidly you could also feel a bit more engine vibration though the body

Cheers Jazza, Everything I wanted to know but I couldn't find a review of anyone who had actually fitted one!

Question for SK to get an Idea for the 2L boys. Standard Rb20 with normal breathing mods - pod, intercooler, good exhaust, EBC etc. What rpm does it start boosting? What boost pressure have you found to be the most efficient to make power? At that pressure, when does it hit max boost? I understand that you probably feild questions like this all the time but I know that you run a GCG highflow on your rb20det and am very interested to hear your very knowledgable experience on the all round performance of this engine/turbo combo for a street car and what mods/tricks get the best out of this package? Understand if you don't want to rewrite essays but any info would be most appreciated!

SK's got a group buy for high flows! $1750. Buy one and don't look back.

Photography > posr your ride > fair way in and it's hot! Edit: Sorry, it's a gtr but it's real world!

????????????????????????????????????????????? You being a smart arse or serious? Hi-octanes are the only DVD's I've watched as my friend has them. "IF" you were serious, they do a tour of japan and stillway wins because they just rock up and ask to film some hot cars and they tell them that they can TAKE the 900HP S15 or film the 600Hp RX7. Goes on to show the RX7 at what can only be described as warp speed on a back street then they go to a track day like rezz's photos with stillways track weapon RX7. Signal, Kansai and veilside also feature. Signal take a 2.8L R34 GTR on the high way for a 300Km/h run

What sort of numbers will be accepted?

My collegue just fixed his in an originally CA18, now rb25 silvia From memory the speedo and odometer work off the single cable drive from the gear box and the ideal way is to get the cable to have Rb25 G/B drive onto a CA18 cable but if I remember correctly his is just bolted straight on with the original cable! Tacho = You need to pull your instrument cluster apart and swap your tacho with an R32 RB20 tacho. A little bit of effort but not something that would stop me buying a car! What would stop me from buying a car is the fact that little things like this are a very clear indicator of the standard of the rest of the conversion. It's things like this that are fairly common knowledge amongst import mechs. P.S. have a look on Nissansilvia.com as I'm sure it would have been cover a million times Hope that helps

The jaycar kit uses the K-type sensors and suggests the use of the devise for exhaust temps (more vital than people think) up to 1200D/C or coolant/oil temp etc. but it has to be tuned once made! Which looks fairly simple though. I suspect the run of the mill sensors would be a varying resistance type. Just thought I'd give you some food for thought for future endevours. If it all works as you say, it looks like a phenominal product. Any idea on pricing yet?

I know it is a little late but is it possible to intergrate Oil pressure and oil temp readings into this as it would then negate the need for any other gauges except for Boost. Oil temp would obviously require seperately wiring in a thermocoupling/probe (2 wires) but would the Oil pressure and possibly even boost be interpreted if spliced into the instrument cluster signals? I was going to make up a jaycar kit thermocoupling kit and have it switch between two sensors for coolant temp and oil temp. I can appreciate as a mechanic how good this tool would be for diagnosis but I yern for oil temp to be included for active monitoring during driving! Reason being I would rather spend the money on an all in one module rather than a dash full of gauges as I try to modify my car to look as clean/stock as possible but with all the gear! To summise, any chance of oil temp input facility? Then all one would have to do is wire up an oil temp sensor from there sandwich plate!

Oil temp and pressure would be good ones obviously people would have to set up the sensors seperate from the module but it would be good if the engine vitals could all be accessed on one unit? I'm interested in one of these. Are they still for sale?

I'm forward! Interior pics?

I was looking at it from a very capable point of veiw! I think your best plan of attack is to get the pics off the other thread and if you choose this guy that everyone recomends, show him the Photos and any other relivant information and "ask" him if he could do this for you! Then you can remove everything from the reroute back and have it done the right way. If he says no, then take it somewhere else. But to be fair to the tradey, it would be acceptable for him to add $50 or so on top to carry out the loop and remove all the hoses and main unit in the engine bay!

You want good flow from the turbo with a split dump that rejions at the elbow and a stainless biscuit cat. Where the noise is taken care of is in the cet-back section. I made my own system up and with a hot-dog muffler and rear steel wound ( not packed - and yes there is a difference) canon it gave a really growly note but was so drowny on deceleration that it gave me a headache driving it home. Swapped the hot-dog for a striaght through side by side resonator and it has a perfect note. I hate unnessarily loud exhausts. My suggestions - Get full stainless. I used mild painted and it's already rusting - Buy the front pipe and stainless biscuit cat from batmobile (GB on this forum) - Have the cat back made up for maximum $400 and your laughing!

Just chip the standard ECU

I know it isn't the point, but it could be easily fixed! just tack weld it back on. I bet there's a heap of guys on the forum close to you who could do it for free if you asked nicely. Just trying to offer a solution to your predicament! P.S. How did it feel when it was in and operational? Could you hear the whine of the gears?

Don't know why but I thought you were a New South Welshman?

I would say that you've got it rather crooked actually DUDE! I'm not bitter about buying a car which if you could read, was for a premium price and I'm not shocked i've lost money. I was a LITTLE bitter because in my haist to buy a car, I didn't do enough research and with the law change and influx of early 32's, I lost an additional $8-9000 on top of normal depreciation. Frustrated with my self in short! Do all cars lose value do they? Well there you go. You learn something everyday! So, don't even pretend to ascend to the dizzying hieghts of what it is to be me! Because I think that you sir will fall well short! Again, my apologies to cheap frills as I was only trying to give you my personal experience to ensure you end up happy with your purchase but I don't appreciate being belittled for giving an opinion.

Location, location, location?

Did you read it? If you just block them off, your powersteer pump will fail! So you make the decision wether you want to spend a little more money now to loop the fluid to the cooler or spend alot more later to fix what ever you've broken after plugging the line? I would suspect that no one knows what thread size it is, as this is the wrong way to go.

I'm a little bitter about mine I guess because I had put in a lot of research and had the funds to buy an R34 or a good quality R32 GTR and assumed that after owning a few cars for over a year each on full comp. without one single incident that insurance wouldn't be a limiting factor. Wrong! The best they would insure me for in the skyline family was an R33 but I didn't like the feel of any of the R33's I drove so I decided to get an R32 to tied me over until I could upgrade. Without putting much research into it I bought an exceptinally clean one when they where still not all that common at, ofcourse, a premium price . 2 mounths later the compliancing laws changed and R32's have become like assholes. 3months after purchase I recieved a call form just cars to inform me that I now i have rating 1 status and the ability to insure any vehicle I want. With in the space of several months because I hadn't put enough research into the exact vehicle and any changes in compliancing coming up I had lost at least $8-9000. Which in turn means that I can no longer aford the upgrade without losing money but more frustratingly means that any modifications I do to my current car is (other than the enjoyment) pissing my money against the wall as I'll see if anything a reduction in return as people more and more want stock cars. Sorry to high jack your thread but I was simply trying to impress upon everyone the importance of reseaching your buy and don't go on impulse! Or frustration in my case.

I'd Rate them as highly reliable but as already said they are getting old and if you don't keep them well maintained it could easily become a money pit. But that applies to every car on the road really! My only advice = Take your time to find a good one and Pay as little as possible for it as you must be aware that the market has been flooded with them and other than the enjoyment of owning it you won't see a return down the line. Sorry to who ever is selling but it's the truth.

Chapman & Chapman! He road tunes but many have had there GTR's modded to all kinds of levels, tuned by other shops on a dyno to get a good looking result but it actually feels very average on the road. I know of a couple of people on this forum that had this experience and went to see Andrew Chapman and left the workshop with a well tuned car and a slight power increase accross the rev range.

Review on Hi-octane DVD "overboost"