Drift Motorsport

Hey Guys, I need some help here with my ECU choice. I have a Motec M800 + Motec CDI that I am running in one of my race cars. Great ECU, very happy with the tune and control - NOT HAPPY about paying for bullshit extras that should be included (launch control, anti lag, logging etc). I have the basic setup and logging enabled and advanced functions is around $500 on top, which I will buy for anti lag and launch control when the car is finished after the new turbo install. I can spend cash and and get a new loom made up for the daily drive and just have the motec plug in and plug out whenever I need to get the race car sorted. I can only drive one car at a time so this is fine, however I was thinking that a VIPEC V88 would be a good upgrade for the daily, cost around $2500 or so trade with sensors etc and I get all the goodies factory (anti lag launch control etc). Just how good is the V88? Is it as good as or better than the motec? The software looks easy to follow and there are heaps of options enabled as well as factory additions that increase the functionality. I would like to try something new like the VIPEC in the future anyway and my conversion/switching costs is around $1000 for a new Motec flying loom + CDI Loom + 3bar map sensor and a few other basic sensors to make it plug and play. So for around $1500 after switching costs, I get a new ECU and a new toy to play with, with all the features that would cost THOUSANDS to enable on a motec. What are your thoughts?

Repo?

Hey Guys, As you may know I have purchased these wheels recently. I have received delivery and everything was received smoothly. After much debate and heated words with Rory, these are not Work Equip wheels, but a rarer kind called Leon Hardiritt Klosters. 3pc alloy wheel, Made in JAPAN. Very Good Quality. They are exclusive VIP / Racing style wheels and are very rare, especially in these offsets. They are not made anymore in Japan and whatever is in the wild is pretty much it. I am offering these wheels back up for sale for $3400 ono + delivery. Please do not low ball as I will save these for a Widebody conversion in due course. You will not find these rims ever again - I'm sad to let them go. They are in very good condition and tyres are also in GC, above road worthy and you will get a spare rear set of Ling 245/35/19s for the rear included in the price. I Can deliver to most places in Aust for around $100, except NT and WA and some areas of TAS and Rural areas. Delivery is still possible, but not for $100. Wheels will be boxed and delivered. Tyres will be included as well. This is your chance to get some super wheels at a great price. I have been told that Klosters for a set of 4 in custom offsets like these were around $12k back in the day in Japan.

From the website: Our Staff Our Instructors and staff have all spent many years devoted to training in their specialised fields. All our martial arts instructors have attained a certain level of expertise to qualify them as teachers and also mentors. Dr. Peter Lewis Dr. Peter Lewis is the senior kung fu instructor of Malvern Health & Fitness. He has thirty years experience teaching martial arts. He has trained with a variety of styles including several styles of kung fu, karate, tae kwon do and unarmed combat. Peter has trained with special-forces in both Australia and Thailand. Dr. Lewis is a sports physician specialising in martial arts injuries. He works out of the Re-Creation Medical Centre and has been the ringside physician for approximately 15,000 bouts. He has looked after boxing, kickboxing, karate, and tae kwon do fights. Dr. Lewis has been involved in officiating at all levels of martial arts including judging refereeing, ringside doctor, trainer and corner-man, ring announcer and rules co-coordinator. He has officiated at some of the most important fights of all time in over 30 cities around the world. Peter has trained with world champions and internationally recognised instructors in many countries. Dr. Lewis has extensive experience at treating physical trauma and also as an expert witness in assault cases. Through his experience of the medical aspects of martial arts training Dr. Lewis has devised a unique perspective on training that focuses on the health benefits of martial arts. He has a special interest in core body stability, skills acquisition, aerobic and anaerobic fitness, flexibility and sparring skills. S15guy = Dr Peter Lewis?

Looks like 5x120? Holden?

Buyer Beware..... if this thread doesnt ring alarm bells - then you deserve to get ripped! For those interested parties, I would buy them form eBay, using Paypal as a security measure. Looks like the Eastern European scamers have moved from credit card fraud to selling dodgy online goods. If KON does not have possession of the goods , what makes you think that he will purchase the goods from racer and then send them to you? If Racer sells the goods just as you pay Kon for them, and ships them to the eBay buyer, do you think that Kon will refund your money? Hard to believe anything in this thread is genuine and true...

Kujotk, Carlins is South Melbourne are dealer only with monthly public clearings last time I was there with an LMCT. The job of the auction is to sell the product/house/car for as much as possible, to the dumbest buyer. This was accomplished so good on pickles and good on the buyer for being a dumb kent. $135k is a bargain all inclusive of all repairs and a fresh service, 135k + buyers fees + kebab repairs, not so much a bargain. Having being in the motor trade, REPO cars are the WORST cars you can buy to keep or resell. They are never serviced, always thrashed and generally in very poor condition.

Interested in the whole car, Can the car be street registered / Has it been complied? Where is the rust - rear wheel arches, front sills/rocker panel etc?

I'm keen if you are coming to melb, no rims needed

Indeed!

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.htm This is an interesting product for those running alcohol fuels and want to map against fuel content. Zeitronix sell the display for a GM flex fuel sensor that you can buy for around $300 AUD delivered from the USA. It has a 0-5v analogue output so you can map a compensation map for E10 all the way to E100 and any variance in between (winter v summer blends) on your ECU. The motec could be mapped for fuel and timing in accordance to a % trim factor for a basic map out to protect the engine or a multi map for trimming at specific load sites, ie: load v rpm v alcohol I have heard mixed reports regarding the southland E85, with a EVO not picking up the extra power (only 7kw) as much as the CSR ethanol from united in hoppers. Regarding Phase Separation and E85s affinity for water absorption - has anyone experienced any problems with stored E85 for over a month? Reason being I would be more inclined to fill up a 205L drum of the stuff for a track day or just to fill up myself at the workshop. http://www.fuel-testers.com/expiration_of_ethanol_gas.html states that E10 has a shelf life of around 60-90 days due to the ethanol content (10%) wanting to absorb water. E85 could have a shelf life of around 3-4 weeks given its high ethanol content?

Sounds like a common issue given the response. Writing to Nissan will net you SFA given that someone else has done the same and they do not give a shit about your complaint. They have your money, have your 'warranty' by the balls, and thus you will open your wallet up either way. Screw the warranty and modify and enjoy your car the way it was meant to be driven - like the guys do in the states. There is such a growing aftermarket base for these cars because Nissan are tools and charge so much for OEM inferior products - sooner or later you will be able to replace any commonly broken or serviceable part for 1/4 - 1/2 of the OEM cost. it appears that even on a legitimate claim, Nissan will not warranty without being taken to court and even then you have a fight on your hands for what is rightfully yours.

Just a question regarding AFRs and E85. The dyno figures show Gasoline AFR (according to the graph title on the Dynapack) at being around 10.5 - 12.3 AFR (Gasoline) on the tune. Which brings me to a lambda / afr table below (http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33448) : Fuel ........................ AFRst ........ FARst ....... Equivalence Ratio ... Lambda Gas stoich ................ 14.7 .......... 0.068 ................ 1 ................... 1 Gas max power rich .... 12.5 .......... 0.08 ................. 1.176 .............. 0.8503 Gas max power lean .... 13.23 ........ 0.0755 .............. 1.111 ............. 0.900 E85 stoich .................. 9.765 ....... 0.10235 ............ 1 ................... 1 E85 max power rich ...... 6.975 ....... 0.1434 .............. 1.40 ............... 0.7143 E85 max power lean ..... 8.4687 ...... 0.118 ............... 1.153 .............. 0.8673 E100 stoich ................ 9.0078 ...... 0.111 ............... 1 .................... 1 E100 max power rich .... 6.429 ........ 0.155 .............. 1.4 .................. 0.714 E100 max power lean .... 7.8 .... ...... 0.128 .............. 1.15 ................ 0.870 Using a 1.5 equivalence ratio, 11.5 AFR (GAS) is around 7.5 AFR (E85) - does this sound correct? When dealing with Lambda, its easy to understand as it is unit-less and non fuel dependent, but the gasoline AFR scale for tuning AFR has got me baffled. Is it safe to say that you can tune to 11.5-12 AFR (GAS) on E85 and be done with it? I would like to push for 450rwkw on E85, but im still getting my grip around the tuning aspect before I make a commitment.

I've used mainline dynos and they are simple to operate with repeatable results. Dyno Dyanamics have the marketing and name, but I do not like their software and user control. I know that Dynocom, a US firm has been copying DD and Dynapack products and selling them at half of their retail price in the USA which could be why they are not doing so well. The owner of mustang dynos told me that dynocom is a copy cat dyno company that will copy anyones design to get leverage in the market,, but their engineering and software is not that great. Trent, Can you share some info regarding the Dynapack dynos you have? What's it like compared to mainline and how involved is the setup for a tune compared to a bed chassis dyno that you just drive over? The Dynapack looks like to have at 15-30 mins worth of setup time?

Hey mate, I've sent 2 pms - please reply with your phone number so I can talk to you regarding the car. Keen buyer, no bs.

Studs give you more clamping force on the surface, due to their design and stretch. For an exhaust manifold, bolts or studs will do. Sometimes I use bolts on custom manifolds as the studs get in the way. Use a good quality bolt with copper grease or anti seize heat resistant grease to ensure that the head threads are kept in order when removing in the future.

Congrats on the baby This is a STEAL people!

Sold ill take em!

Drive both and make your own assumptions. Who gives a sh.it about what some computer geek, who cant afford either car, writes on a forum? The majority of the people on the road could not GIVE A F.uCK what you drive. Never buy a car to get the look of others - buy a car to satisfy your own needs. Whilst in Japan, get the Ferrari and buy the GTR when you're back in Australia when its about 80k. The 360 Modena will not go under 100k in 5 years, where the GTR could due to depreciation. Use your noggin and generate a depreciation chart, features vs benefits analysis of both to make an informed decision. Alternatively, you can grey import F360s from the UK, SA, HK and ASIA for around 100k at todays prices. Australia has high car prices due to Luxury Car Tax an the fact that we are at the arse end of the world. LCT should be abolished - it is punishing people who have worked hard to earn a better ride with better safety features. IMO the GTR will always be a Nissan regardless of its performance. Just like Lexus will always play second fiddle to the Euro Giants BMW and Merc in the luxury market, the prestige of the marque and 'badge' street cred will always have the euro cars higher than the Japanese cars. Both cars are special, but the F360 is sex on wheels and the GTR is a high performance gadget that will keep you amused for years. I've owned and driven comparable lexus and BMW cars and Lexus has my vote for making a car that is not a POS, uses excellent materials and will last a long time - enough to hand down to your son. BMW make a nicely deigned car with some flawed engineering in the electronic and suspension department and their engines can be a bit fragile when pushed hard. If you want to race and really daily drive a performance car - the GTR is something that should not let you down. The F360 is like an Italian Supermodel - always needs attention, money and work and doesnt want to be pushed hard without the right maintenance. Buy the one that suits our needs now and buy the other when you can afford it. Its a lot harder to make 100k the first time, but easier the 2nd and 3rd time. Keep in mind that both cars will always be around and depreciate heavily - there is no great rush to get into it right now, especially with the improvements to the next gen GTR and hopefully a gearbox update. Disclaimer: This is my e-opinion. If you disagree, tough. If you are dumb enough to argue about what someone else should buy for themselves, with their own money, my flame suit is waiting

Buy the 360, in 10 years the GTR will be worth sweet f.uck all and you could buy one for 1/6th of the retail price. The Ferrari will always hold its value compared to the GTR.

Habib's Front Yard Car Sales...... Sik - Fully!

Just to add we are working on a urethane bushed version as well for an OEM feel but with an adjustable arm.

If you have reduced the camber - then you have made the arm longer - hence why it maybe touching the wheel arch trim. Cut/trim the wheel arch back for clearance. In addition, your car may have a bent or previously damaged front chassis that may have been repaired incorrectly and you are getting a discrepency between left and right. Apart from the wheel arch trim - is the camber aligned properly and does it drive better?

The bearings are an off shelf part available from any bearing wholesaler. Alternatively you could give UAS a call. Installing the arms wrong will put heaps of sideways force on the bearings and can crack cage which will damage the bearing race and/or rollers/balls. Speak to the wheel aligner about the problem if they installed it wrong.

From this Forum Post: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365553 Data Table: http://www.ian.chisholm.clara.net/dbb/t67p...comparisons.xls Results: Around 400ths of a second differernce to hit 1 bar of boost between ball bearing and journal bearing. SFA really. Your datalogging may notice it but you wont notice it on the road during gear changes. In Even in circuit cars, there is ample exhaust flow to keep the turbo spooled during gear changes. Spool and response will certainly be noticeable on the street but once its on boost, the difference could be SFA. The real technology in Garrett GT BB turbos is in their wheel design and housing options. Ball bearing is a great - but even for a big single - it may not be worth the extra premium for a big single turbo due to the wheel inertia and design providing most of the 'lag'. In Drag racing, you will not see the benefits of the BB turbo in the 1/4 mile time as your converter should be able to make boost on the line and leave the line with boost. In a manual form, you should run an anti-lag system to get the boost up.