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Drift Motorsport

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  1. D-Project Alloy Subframe Bushes : $135 Delivered to your door (no pickup). Easy to install yourself if you know your way around cars. Pineapples and Squat/Antisquat work in the short term, but they will not fix or secure the shagged subframe bushes. You can still setup the subframe for squat/anti squat with the alloy bushes, but we have found that all 8 installed is the best setup. We also have replacement subframe bushes OEM style for $199 Delivered Diff Bushes etc are in development.
  2. The car's worth more than 250k Rear half cut anyone? To do that kind of damage, he would have been traveling at 160+ km/h, not 108 - which would explain why the wanker lost control.
  3. What a wanker..... This f.uck makes it harder for everyone else who sells onlne. Ban should be in order given the history.
  4. Add a little spam - add a lot of taste?
  5. Sounds like a lot of dicking around + cash spent, for a f**k all gain. Stock or alloy aftermarket radiator + FMIC = a reliable package that looks as good as it performs. If you want better cooling - try ducting the radiator and intercooler with thick plastic sheets. Alternatively, you can for a V-Mount or Predator style setup as pictured:
  6. Can you post up your fuel and timing maps in excel for us to see?
  7. Hi Kirk, We sell those type of arms in Australia for $425 Delivered and that picture is from our old website. It sounds like you have not installed the arms properly. Although we have not sold you the arms, my advice is as follows: The arms must be installed offset to each tother. If you have installed them as pictured in the above post - then you wil not get the right alignment. The factory R32 arms are offset - and thus - the adjustable arms must be offset. To adjust - you must undo the blue or red rings in the center (just make them loose) then turn the center turn buckle to lengthen or shorten the arm to your alignment specs. This can be done on-car. On the D-Project arms - the ends are also adjustable for a tight fit into the control arm and chassis bracket. Kakiimoto OEM style arm - notice the offset:
  8. Femmo, Risking has sent me a PM with some great ideas of how a 3rd party control system should work However, this control system would need to be re-mapped and tweaked each time torque output or grip is changed. If not mapped correctly, basically you will break the front diff off the sump. After investigating it further, it appears that the ATESSA relies on the ABS unit to get wheel speed as well as braking forces to compute how much torque to transfer to the front. The easiest way to do a conversion would be to gut the electronincs and ABS out of a GTR and it should be able to run after a custom install. Secondly, it is probably cheaper and easier to buy a rolling GTR shell with the electronics and use that as a base if the shell is smashed - or just using a GTR to begin with anyway lol. I will still proceed with installing most of the mechanical driveline just incase I can find someone thats stripping a stock GTR out that has been smashed
  9. Hey Guys, I've recently purchased Front + Rear Subframes from an R32 GTR and will be buying a gearbox and diff/sump setup shortly. Basically I will have ALL of the mechanicals for the GTR driveline. I can modify the floor pan for the transfer case and front chasiss rails to accept the front drive shafts - no problem. The car is a track only car and I figured this would be a cheap way to make a unique GTR driveline track car considering the driveline only cost me $1500 max for everything. The engine will be an RB30/26 setup good for around 500hp. My only issue is the control system for the ATESSA. In its basic form, it is a hydraulic circuit that uses auto fluid to pressureise the transfer case in the gearbox which then engages a clutch and thus drive the front wheels. Vary the pressure - vary the amount of torque split to the front wheels. My question is, apart from the hydraulic pump and reservior - how can I control the line pressure electronically. I understand that the is a G force sensor under the center console to detect sideways forces and engage the front wheels as well as a few other smarts in the ATESSA ECU and control system. Short of installing the whole GTR ATESSA control system (which would be a PITA) Can I use a Motec M800 output to map and control the duty cycle of a solenoid / pump / pressure regulator to control the transfercase? Which parts would I need to work the ATESSA system as a factory system and as an aftermarket system with PWM/solenoid control? Yours Sincerely, Costa Tsimiklis Director -- ------ Drift Shop Australia - Specialising in Japanese Aftermarket Parts - Tel: +61433 220 139 (Voice Mail Service Only) Fax: +613 9504 0373 Email: sales@driftshop.com.au
  10. Trans upgrade is included. You can get a gearset from PPG. Brakes - only required if you will do any serious track work. Any production car has crap brakes for serious track work and needs at minimum upgraded pads and disks. 1/4 mile time is still a bit slow considering boosted stock turbos and a good launch get the car to run low 11s, high 10s. From link: Power: 715 hp @ 6,500 rpm 662 lb-ft Torque @ 4,100 rpm Performance: 0-60 mph: 2.8 sec. (stock = 3.4) 0-100 mph: 6.7 sec. (stock = 8.3) 0-150 mph: 14.5 sec. (stock = 19.5 sec.) 0-186 mph: 24.7 sec. (stock = 53.3 sec.) 1/4 mile: 10.8 sec. @ 133 mph (stock = 11.8 sec. @ 118 mph) Includes: SUMO ™ Stainless Steel 88 mm Catback Exhaust System SUMO ™ Stainless Steel Midpipe Exhaust SUMO ™ Engine Management Computer Programmer (17 psi boost) SUMO ™ Intercooler Piping Upgrade SUMO ™ Inlet Piping Upgrade with Stainless Steel Blow-off Valves SUMO ™ Sport Turbo Upgrade – Modified Factory Turbos with 47 mm Compressor Wheels (stock compressor wheels = 42 mm) SUMO ™ Modified Factory Wastegate Actuators SUMO ™ 100 mm High-Flow Cold Air Induction Modified Factory Mass Air Sensors High-Flow Fuel Injectors with Custom Calibration Transission Cooler Upgrade Transission Clutch Pack Upgrade Professional Installation All Necessary Gaskets & Fluids Chassis Dyno Tuning & Engine Management Calibration Powered by Hennessey Custom Floor Mats Limited Edition GTR700 Plaque in Interior & Engine Compartment Factory Engine Cover in Red with black GTR600 Badges Hennessey & GTR700 Exterior Badges The GTR700 kit is also available via mail order and it can also be exported internationally. Optional Upgrades: SUMO ™ Electronic Exhaust Cutout (75 mm) KW Variant 3 Adjustable Coilover Suspension Upgrade HRE C91 Light Weight Alloy Wheel Upgrade (set of 4) SUMO ™ Brand Hennessey Performance Engineering (HPE) is proud to introduce its own line of high-performance parts & accessories for the R35 Nissan GTR. As the name implies, our SUMO ™ performance brand is big and powerful. Each individual component included in the GTR700 upgrade is available individually on a mail-order basis. GTR owners can order SUMO ™ performance parts from HPE by calling or by visiting the company’s new web store at HennesseyPerformanceStore.com
  11. Dealer services are hack jobs anyway. I know mechanics that work in Jap dealers (Mazda, Nissan) as well as Euro dealers (BMW, VW) and the team are the worst mechanics in the business. Dealer servicing = ripping the customer off by not doing the work or f.ucking the car even more for a customer return and more labour. Any decent Jap speicalist that has a good reputation should be able to service your car to specification and actually do the work. Shit, you could even do it yourself! Its not hard to change fluids and wear&tear parts.
  12. Great thread guys. Keep up the good work
  13. Jap vid on ATTESSA E-TS http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6...1&q=Skyline
  14. Great read guys! I'm looking at doing a GTR driveline conversion in my R32 Sedan track car. I have Front/Rear Cradles and soon 4wd box and front diff. I will be missing the ATTESSA Pump and the electronic control circuit for the ATTESSA. I've got a Motec M800 which can control and map a solenoid to the specific requirements and duty cycle. How would i get this working with an ATTESSA Pump and Motec PWM control?
  15. I've got a Virgin RB20DE w/Free Auto for $500 that someone can whack in this car with all the turbo bolts ons. Its out of the same type of car - R32 4 door. The High comp would make the RB20 a joy to drive off boost PM Me for more info. Genuine 120k kms.
  16. NSW from the looks of the phone number
  17. Factory S14 tie rod ends should fit as they are 14mm - same as R32/R33. We have D-Project Adjustable Tie Rod Ends in stock, ready for delivery at $249 Delivered. We also have a D-Project Steering Set w/Extra Lock Tie Rods, Tie Rod Ends and Steering Rack Bushes for $499 Delivered. Please see the post in our signature for pics and info and PM us if you would like to order!
  18. Search for the Sydneykid Oil control thread for more info. 1) Run a 1.25 - 1.1 restrictor in the front oil feed to the head 2) Block the rear oil feed to the head 3) Run the RB26 pump (R33-R34) with an oil pump collar (you can buy it from the CNC guy who seels them on the form for around $79 Delivered) Even the factory RB oil pumps - pump too much oil to the head at constant high RPM. There is no need to upgrade to a super duper $1000+ factory fitted oil pump. That being said - there have been plenty of VL owners spinning their RB30 SOHC and DOHC setups to 6500rpm without many issues on the drag strip and street using a stock oil pump.
  19. Interesting Info, however if I would still run T04Z instead of a 4088. You need to select the right the housings for the application and top end exhaust flow. Whilst the GT4088 is a "newer" turbo in the sense of design, it fails to deliver in my opinion due to its trim sizes and exhaust turbine options on a 3.0L RB/2JZ etc. The 4088 is great for anything in the 3.5-4L range however for the 2.5-3L class it is my opinion that the T04Z will be more responsive and make more power than a GT4088 on the same engine, tune and boost level between 2.5-3L. From my experience the T04Z is a great turbo and it WORKS BETTER than a GT4088 in correctly sized and matched housing + applications. As with any turbo setup - the turbo charger itself is 1/4 of the application. The rest is the correct wastegate, manifold, a/r housing size and engine + tune setup. The downfall off the T04Z is that it requires a higher shaft speed to attain the higher flows (about 10-15% more than a GTcompressor). With this in mind - one should always run a smaller housing on the turbine to allow for this so that the turbo can reach its peak shaft speed at the desired pressure ratio. I have found that the 1.00 twin scroll is has been the best compromise for a 3.0L 6 between top end and streetability. Garrett have 10 exhaust housing options to address this exact issue. discopotato03 - I know you're in love with the GT4088 and you frequently say that the GT4088 is a better turbo than the T04Z because of the material/technology/date it was designed. Turbos are based on early 1900 technologies - The concept has not changed - but with the CAD/CAM use and material use - reliability and better wheel profiles have resulted in more performance. Do not discount the T04Z because it is based on an evolution of a T60-1 and from quasi-diesel setups from the 60's. I will say that if you had the exact spec T04Z wheels and trim setups in GT wheels (ie: custom GT4088 wheels made to T04Z sizes) the custom GT4088 would have better response due to its efficient design - and perhaps flow just as much up top as the T04Z. The GT wheels are a great wheel for response and mid range - but they all seem to have issues flowing high volumes at HIGH pressure ratios when the trim size is too small. Since we are talking about off shelf turbo units - I am a still firm believer based on my driving of GT4088 and T04Z 3L 2JZ/RB30s that the T04Z delivers more in response vs power and makes more TOP END power because it can flow more at higher pressure ratios. Any response issues on a T04Z can be tweaked with a simple rear housing change. In short - 4088 is a newer turbo - but it does not deliver a better street/track setup on a 2.5-3L than a T04Z purely based on its wheel and trim sizes. The HKS Developed and Garrett built T04Z and GT51R are turbos that have been trimed and speced for street racing setups in mind. I know that you will still love and promote the GT4088 and that is fine. I will agree to disagree - but please do not slam the T04Z as a highly inferior turbo to defend the GT4088 when it has been proven to out perform the GT4088 in street applications. Both are great turbos and both have their place. If you have a GT4088 already - you have a good turbo so dont worry! Likewise with a T04Z. How they perform is entirely relevent to your power and response expectations.
  20. Did the dyno guy back off the throttle between 4500rpm and 5500pm? Huge dip in power! Or just as it was coming on full boost it hit surge?
  21. There's heaps of BS in this thread that needs some clearing up. The T04Z is built on a GT40 core. I'ts marketed as a T04Z due to the unique compressor design which has curved fins instead of straight fins. This makes the compressor slightly inefficient - but you can flow more at higher shaft speeds and pressure ratios. Its similar to back cutting the rear turbine wheel for more flow. The efficientcy is still in the 70-76% which is the sweet spot. Operating at 70 instead of 76 will slightly heat up the air more due to the compressor's friction with the air. For a setup with an intercooler - it will be able to cope with this no problem. There is NOTHING old about the T04Z design. It was built by HKS to flow heaps of air at high pressure ratios. The GT4088 is based on a SCANIA 9LT DIESEL truck turbo. Garrett/Allied Signal supply these turbos with a 27psi internal gate for SCANIA trucks. They flow around 650HP in their truck format but have a really peaky compressor map. The Garrett GT4088 that you buy for your street car has a slightly different trim to make it flow at lower flow rates and high pressure ratios. This is done so that the turbo does not surge. Since a Diesel doesn't have a throttle body - surge isnt so much of a problem so a peaky turbo is OK. The T04Z is between the GT4088 and GT4092. The GT4092 flows 80lb/s but it would be a LAG monster compared to the T04Z due to its huge turbine and compressor wheels. The T04Z is probably the most streetable large frame turbo - when matched with the right A/R. A 1.00 housing on the rear on an RB30 is very responsive and has a lot of torque. Off boost response is quite good and once it spools - it will power slide. The T04Z comp wheel FLOWS MORE than the GT4088 across the whole map.. At its peak - the T04Z will flow ~73lb/s at 2.25 Bar. The GT4088 will flow 67lb/s at 1.4 bar. The T04Z at 1.4bar flows 69lb/s. This is largly due to the larger inducer on the T04Z (66.65mm) vs the GT4088 (63.5mm). The T04Z also has a larger trim size, which is the most important part of the compressor and turbine geometry. This is the relationship between inducer and exducer. The larger the trim size - the more flow you will have through the housing outlet. Trim = ((inducer)^2 / (exducer)^2 )* 100 The benefit of the T04Z over the GT4088 is that it only needs 30lb/s exhaust flow - compared to the same A/R GT4088 which needs 33lb/s (.84 ar on both). This will mean that the T04Z will be less laggy than the GT4088 if you are using the same housing. You also need a faster shaft speed on the T04Z to make the boost - hence why the smaller wheels and trims on the exhaust side. This helps the turbo spool up much faster due to the high shaft speeds required. The only reason why a GT4088 may appear to make more top end power - is due its larger exhaust wheel and trim size allowing more exhaust flow. If you carefully select the A/R housing size of your T04Z - you will make more power than a GT4088 any day. Anyone that thinks that the T04Z is a truck turbo is a) uneducated in turbos, b) having you on c) stupid. There is no "old tech" in the T04Z turbo. The wheels are a complete re-design to flow over 70lb/s whilst still being more responsive. You can thank HKS for making such a turbo and garrett for delivering the final product. HKS have done a lot of research into turbos and streetability to get the best response vs power. HKS have been known to have a great combination of small yet efficient exhaust wheels matched to larger frame compressors. The T51R (HKS and Garrett) is a work of art for a shelf turbo considering it flows 10000HP and is probably is less laggy than a GT4088 due to its 71mm exhaust wheel, vs 77mm on the GT4088. 9.5 seconds 1/4 in a SOHC RB30 backed with an R33 5spd manual and Jim Berry Clutch in a VL using a Garrett GT51R. In short, if you have a streeter and want a great turbo for the street and track - T04Z is the go. If you want to run high times behind a 2speed glide and need all the top end to make 800HP at the wheels - a T51R is the turbo of choice. The T51R will flow 100lbs due to the higher trim and outflow the GT4202 whilst having a smaller turbine wheel than a GT4088! den001 - you dont know what you are talking about and are relaying info (not facts) that you were sold to on. Croydon have been feeding you BS to pay for a more expensive turbo setup. All Garret GT turbos are "performance" Turbos and are based on their then new GT design wheels which is miles ahead of the AiResearch days of the 80s. The only TRUE performance turbos for petrol applications are the HKS / Garrett T04Z and T51R which are ammended designs of the HKS street petrol turbos. The GT40/GT42 and GT50s etc are all based on Diesel turbos retrimmed for the petrol/performance aftermarket market. You can defend your GT4088 all you like - but the facts and figures from both HKS and Garrett show that the T04Z is a better turbo for power, flow and response compared to the GT4088. With a bit of porting of the compressor cover - I would also suggest that it could make more power vs response than a GT4094 as well. Back on topic - Saft - Run a T04Z with a 0.84 housing for your 2.6L engine. If you were going to run an RB30 - I would recommend a 1.00 for top end. You will only need one wastegate, perhaps around 40-45mm depending on the boost level you will be running. Higher boost = smaller wastegate. Low boost = larger wastegate due to the increase in the exhaust bypassed.
  22. Jim Berry clutches are the best single's you will ever buy and will out last and out perform most twin / triple setups that are over hyped. The key is clamping force and the type of friction material used. Jims 3800lbs+ pressure plate and the special carbotic friction material are second to none for a performance single clutch. Most clutches fail due to contamination. There should be NO OIL OR WATER in the bell housing. This means all the crap must be cleaned out of the bell housing before you install the clutch and like wise on the engine side. Not doing this will make the clutch burn up the friction material and thus fail. Keep in mind that your turbo water lines and heater hoses run over the bell housing in some setups. IF these weep or leak under pressure - you will have glycol (coolant) in the bell housing which is worse than OIL. Alloy Flywheels are a damn JOKE and should not be used. Exceedy, Fidanza, adelaide clutch etc, alloy flywheels may be great for a stock setup - but they are far too weak for anything over stock clamping pressures at 1700lbs. Cro-mo flywheels are a wank expense that I have found have shown no superior strength or great benefits on the track. Their transient response may be a tad better - but the interia of a stock flywheel will spool turbos up faster on/off the throttle. The best flywheel is a GC nissan flywheel with locating dowels and not lightened. Just get it crack tested and machined and you're in business upto 11,500 rpm on an RB. The dowel pins must be in the flywheel to locate the bolts properly and provide shear load resistance as the clutch accelerates and deaccelerates. The pressure plate bolts are only there to take tension loads as the clutch is engaged/disenaged. They can take a small mount of shear loads as the clutch rotates - but the dowels take most of this load in conjunction with the surafce friction of all the pressure plate bolts. If your pressure plate has movement when its just located on the dowels - it will rattle itself loose and shear the pins and bolts and get the broken bell housing failure as pictured in the previous posts. The picture of the broken bellhousing and clutch suggests that the owner was using an alloy flywheel WITHOUT locating dowels. This is evident in the surface appearance of the two dowel surfaces pictured being consistant with the flywheel surface. It looks like the dowels were machined flat and thus not doing their very important job. If your clutch installer does not use the dowels - you will get the same failure - simple. You must ensure that all the dowels are installed when installing the pressure plate. The pressure plate bolts are not designed to be whacked by the pressure plate due to inertia and will shear off quickly due to the stress concentrations in the threads. This is the exact reason why all wheel hubs/rotors have a LIP that the center of the wheel rests on. This lip takes the bump loads as the wheel travels up and down, whilst the wheels studs take the radial loads as the wheel rotates. Once you use spacers without the lip or wheels that do not fit properly on this lip - you will break wheel studs as they are not designed to take bump forces - just like the pressure plate bolts. Anyway, I just bought my 2nd and 3rd Jim berry clutches for the Soarer and R32 Drifter and I couldnt be happier. From memory the FULL MONTY single R32 clutch w/Solid center was around $1250 retail w/flywheel machining and the soarer clutch was around $1000 with flywheel machining. I have 4000lbs on each clutch and I will be spinning both to 8,000 rpm and using stock flywheels. Ill post up pics soon!
  23. Call of Duty 4 - Single player is great and Multiplayer is unreal. You will be hooked!
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