Drift Motorsport

My brain hurts after reading that..

mmm torrent downloading from mininova.org

Solution - Jump in a Car and get your GOURANGA Bonus! Before After ROFL. I never give money out to people that ask on the street, but occasionally when i see the beared drummer guy that plays beats on a few buckets w/crates and a broken symbol I hand over a few coins. I remember back in 1997 when he just had one bucket as a drum lol! In my opinion, homelessness and being a bum is a CHOICE that people make. The Australian Government will pay to send you to Uni/Tafe and pay you study money to make ends meet. There is NO excuse for not being educated or at least not homeless in my opinion. Australians have it really good compared to other countries like the US where their government will not even pay or subsidise their medical bills or educations. These international thugs, whom are probably on a refugee visa should be deported back to Africa. We are very lucky as Australians to live here under these systems of equality. Hopefully these "commonwealth" systems will still be active in in the next 50 years.

Excellent video.... just watched it 5 times in a row

Interesting Dash setup. Whilst I'de love to install the SDL or ADL on my Motec m800 - I dont have 8-14k for a damn dash display! Meridian Motorsport sell Race Tech Dashes which are interesting. Datalogging overlay software, video overlay info (like in the car games/best motoring) and upto 20HZ GPS mapping. Price from $1950 inc GST to $3500 for a full setup wtih 6Gforce sensor for drifting/cornering Company Website: http://www.race-technology.com/dash2_2_31.html

Back on topic.... If I had a GTR with a perfect RB26 - I'de leave it stock untill I had problems with the bottom end / needed a rebuild. If I was going to do a ground up rebuild I would choose an RB30 26 head setup and budget another $1k ontop for the 4wd sump adaptor. If both engines need to be rebuilt and forged - the RB30 is the clear winner because it is the same cost as the RB26 and the extra .4 litres will certainly be noticeable. High RPM on an RB30 is all about head flow (DOHC GTR Head - problem solved) and balancing. There is no reason why an RB30 cant rev as high as an RB26 without the right balance work. RIPS have proven this in their setups as well as Drag VLs revving over 8500 in SOHC form and running 7.9 sec on the 1/4 mile. Keep in mind that RPM isnt everything either. If you make peak power at 7500 rpm - why rev it to 9000 rpm? The RB30 would make more power at the same RPM than a comparable RB26. Furthermore, to get the most of your engine package, diff gears play a vital roll in multiplying the torque out of the engine/transmission to the ground. Match the gears to your track/street duties and you have an ultimate combo. For a similar analogy I've driven a 1JZ Soarer with 250rwkw and a 2JZ Soarer with 262rwkw. 1J is 2.5L and 2J was 3.0L. The off boost torque was amazing in the 2J and once the turbo was on full boost it just pulled all the way to redline. The extra displacement makes the car more fun to drive and much more streetable. On a street RB26 RWD vs a worked RB30 SOHC in a VL with similar power, the RB30 just felt that much better even with the SOHC head setup... The RB26 is peaky and requires higher RPM whilst the RB30 will do the same work at less RPM with less fuss. You can compare any dyno graph you wish and talk shit on the internet untill you get blisters on your fingers. Until you drive both and experience the torque of the RB30 first hand you dont know what your talking about. The bottom end is just an air pump. The more displacement - the more air and thus the more power you will make. RB26 have their place but from my experience and engine builds a worked RB30 is greater than a worked RB26. The biggest problem with your build will be how much do you want to spend to make each engine reliable?

Wow I never knew the Jap cops could be so badass.... What other stories are there about the Jap police?

W0rp3d - FYI, there are only two rollcage threads in the fabrication forums wtih different info. I have supplied more or updated information to assist others in their roll cage building instead of starting my own thread asking similar questions. I have no plans to sell cages. I would like to build my own cage for my R32 and hopefully get it CAMS approved if not go to a CAMS workshop to get a cage installed.

I just changed the oil in the soarer to Motul 8100 5-40 and I'm very happy with the results. Given that it is mainly a street car wtih a bit of track work here and there - $75 for 5L was the sweet spot. 300V Chrono 10w-40 was $110 at Repco for 4L + $60 for another 2L, total $142 for 5L. For the extra cash and nearly double the money of Motul 8100 - I couldnt justify the extra cost for a street car. The 5w oil should be more street in cold starts and the hot thickness of 40 is the same as the 300v. In addition, at almost the same cost - can drive for twice the kms. One thing that I have noticed in my engines is that its not so much the quality of oil (as long as it is an ester based oil or 100% synthetic) but how often it is changed that matters. I would suggest that running 300V for 10k will wear out the engine more than 2x loads of 8100 every 5k with filter changes. I also use a motul oil similar to 8100 in the GSXR 1000 when I go track racing without any issues. I would say that the bearing loads on a bike producing 190hp at 14,000 RPM would be similar if not greater than a turbo 6 making 250rwkw+ at 7000rpm. One thing that I have noticed is that after a trackday or two - the genuine suzuki filter has some metal particles in it (probably from the gearbox/clutches) so I always change the filter and top up the oil after every track day. I will be changing my oil every 5k and filter every 2.5k using Motul 8100 as part of my servicing for the soarer. When I install the oil cooler - I may extend the oil service interval to 7.5k and keep the filter change every 2.5k and also cut the filters open to see what's inside. For the RB30 RB26 R32 drifter - Redline heavy shock proof gearbox / diff oil and ill start with 8100 w/oil cooler and perhaps consider 300v if i can get a few more track days out of it and do a filter change every track day and oil change every 4th track day depending on the type of event. Circuit and hill climb racing will wear the oil out quicker than drifting for example. If I can keep the oil under load at 90-95 degrees the oil will last much longer than at 110 degrees so an effective oil cooler should protect and save expensive oil changes.

updated link for cams regs: http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_j_q109.pdf

You can use a hole saw + jig to notch the pipe to spec.

It's a chinese welder - but once you tweak it to the material that you are using - it does weld really well. Practice makes perfect :")

Great build - I like your engineering approach to solving some of the problems! Please keep us all updated with more fabrication pics etc! I would have thought that you would have done the roll cage yourself given your fabrication experience?

How often do you guys change your oil in a track/circuit car?

I've got a broken valve guide on an RB26 head too. Which cylinder as it? Mine was cylinder, inlet valve, the last one out of the two. Are the RC injectors genuine 1200cc in flow? I was looking at gettin them but I did hear reviews that RC Injectors are faulty, high flow injectors that dont seem to work all the time and dont flow their rated amounts + you get a mixed bag of injectors with all different rates from 600-1400cc when you order. If you can up the boost then you will make more power. IF your peak power is at 8000 - revvin to 9000 is not going to net you more power obviously. If anything you may be able to make peak power sooner and thus decrease your max RPM.

PFC Sold to fellow SAU member.

Ok guys, I've had a few PMs and orders and I will be stripping the car late next week provided the weather is good. Everything on the car is 100% good, but I may break it removing it. I will let the interested parties know the condition after I have removed it. 15+ year old plastics tend to be very fragile at the clips. The interior is NOT velour as it was a non turbo - RB20 spec car. Please do not call me regarding the parts on the car. PM or post here.. I do not want to be called for the simple fact that there are at least 10 people after parts and im not sure who you may be on the phone and I wont be able to organise and allocate the stock properly. My preference is to deliver items than to have them picked up as I do not have the time. I may be able to offer a time window where people can come down and pick the goods up. Delivery to Melbourne Metro via couriers please is from $15 for up to 25kg. Considering the fuel cost and time - delivery works out to be nearly break even or cheaper in some cases. Door Scuff plates - $55 Passenger Seatbelt Buckle - the one next to the console - $35 Window glass, switches and regulators have been withdrawn from sale due to lexan/plexiglass costing too much and not worth the the money for the weight save / inconvenience. I'll update this thread shortly.

Hey Guys, I've got some aftermarket cams going in the head and I need some lifter shims so I can get it all to spec. I know that nissan would have the shims - but can they be sourced somewhere else for cheaper? Yours Sincerely, Costa Tsimiklis Director -- ------ Drift Shop Australia - Specialising in Japanese Aftermarket Parts - Tel: +61433 220 139 (Voice Mail Service Only) Fax: +613 9504 0373 Email: [email protected]

Top effort and top build! I believe that this car is now for sale? 75k..... bargain.

Has anyone made these with a GMC drop saw? Looking to make a 6-1 collector for an RB.

Did you need to cut out the rear quarters to fit the kit?

AC System parts also available - great if you have had a front end stack! Simonster - It will be sold - but it will be one of the last things to sell as I need to find replacement plexiglass and need access to the windows so I can move them up and down. If you dont mind waiting 2-3 weeks - its yours for $35 delivered. GTS-T_Sedan - C Pillar Trims - $25 each + Freight. Are you after left or right or both?

Thanks for the messages guys. I will take photos in and out of the car for you. I will confirm the rest of the details thursday/friday. The goods will be sold on a first come - first serve basis. I also have all the seatbelts which should be in very good condition. 4DR R32 - From memory the dash and console is 100% ok no cracks etc. CeJay - just to confirm - You are after the plastic trims that are between the windscreen and front door. GTST-Sedan - That part is available.

Hey Guys, I'm building up the D-Project / Driftshop R32 4 door drift car and I have some goodies for your car that I dont need. The car was imported for parts ages ago and was only driven on the road with trade plates. Nothing special here in terms of performance - but at least you have a decent option if you have blown a motor etc. RB20DE Engine complete w/Inlet/Exhaust manifold, Loom, etc - 110,00 kms (will confirm) - $750ono RB20DE Auto Gearbox - Drives like it is still new - shifts hard - $250ono R32 4 door Interior - Complete - $400 Front/Rear/Roof/Door Trims/Dash/etc - from $49 a piece. Dash Cluster (will update kms) - $49 4 Door Power window regs - $49ea 4 Door window glass - $49ea Bits of loom / interior wiring / switches- from $10 Basically the car is getting stripped down to a bare rolling shell with all panels and no engine/driveline/interior and going on a massive weight reduction for the track. I can freight all around Australia - however things like engines and so forth will need to be put on pallet for transit. Post up what you need in the thread and I will get back to you on a price. I can freight non engine/gb stuff anywhere in Australia. Pics TBA.

Could be the tail shaft.