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Chris Rogers

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Everything posted by Chris Rogers

  1. thats pretty much what I had done. I left the alarm out of it.
  2. Hey chris. what did you mean you wont need it if you have an M80? i saw something in the description for the m80 that it has turbo timer interface....does that mean it has something to hook up to a turbo timer without any hassles? yep the option is there for it. have a read in the book when yours gets to you and its option 13. you still need the timer.
  3. he was selling them. DEI australia had a polite chat with him over it as I understand. the ones he was selling were SINGLE point (I did a fair few of these into 33 & 34 skylines.) who is the car insured with? if its like most companies requiring a 2pt (minimum) Immobilser) then they do NOT want : coloured wires, external points of immobilsation (IE external relays) that are easily found and removed, one that doesn't auto arm if you forget, doens have glass break detection or shock. ( the PG units have a horrible shock sensor its on or off - very little in between) 6 points can be anything inthe car. there is not set rule on this. if I cut the fuel pump in 6 places then thats 6 point immobilisation. easily bypassed means that I can ( and usually under a 30 sec to a minute) find the unit - unlpug it and drive off in my newly acquired skyline that I either intend to thrash and burn or strip and sell for parts. ask DAN666 about easily bypassed on a 33. he should clear it up for you. ( the 34 he has now isn't going anywhere unless I take it.) most of the korean/chinese alarms have the immobilsation point outside of the alarm. they use a relay ( electronic switch as a simple term) to immobilise a circuit on the car. now if you look closely at the image (PG8000) you will see a small black box - that is the immobilisation relay. find that relay and the car is GONE! ( actually find the module and unplug it and its gone anyway.) any questions ring me ( website link in sig or contact link in sig) or send me a pm. I'm not a MSN person and not always on the PC.
  4. blaupunkt do a few good ones. look at the overdrive series or the TS series. then send me a PM.
  5. pageguard 8000- done this one. VERY easily bypassed. (look at the wiring image - see the EXTERNAL relay.) Pageguard 6000 - see above. very similar to the jaycar item actually. Pyle- two module unit - sold under many brands hidden well enough it does ok. only one point and the relay is external but inthgrated into the main harness. done this one on a WGC34 791 XV - done these on 32,33,34 skylines. biggest problem is the relay satellite. only drops the starter and extra points are possible but easily bypassed as they are external. as for putting both together - nope. if you are dead set on remote start look for remote start modules and not alarms. you still have the same problem and the insurance companies may not like you afterwards ( you have just cars for insurance?)
  6. best to leave the idea alone. look at it this way- If I find out where you live I can take the car in an instant seeing as you have already done most of the hard work for me bypassing the alarm..
  7. ok then. Mongoose works well on those, timer friendly and insurance approved by 90% of the companies used by import owners. where are you based?
  8. midnght, yes you can. HOWEVER. hide the wire that feeds it VERY well. mikymouse, depends on the alarm. 90% of them do it on arming. in regard to you certain points question. this is the basics of quiktrak system. IGN,Starter are done and the fuel or other system is done remotely.
  9. mongoose M80G. that'll do it. which version of 32 do you have?
  10. bit more detail please. IE make of unit,mods to car what gear is in the car etc. (send me a PM if you are going to quote model #s.)
  11. one word- bin. it sounds like an old one so I would bin it and either : get a newer one, leave it off.
  12. and then I cone along and bridge the relay and drive off... common thing to do though. most thieves are aware of this one.
  13. no probs
  14. out of curiosity what alarm is on the car ( PM me if you dont wish to disclose it here.)
  15. dez, actaully you get your price and pm me. I have sent a few PMs to PARA already.
  16. 6" with the adapting plate. or if you want 6.75" in the rear and 6.75" in the front with a new spacer. clarion make a drop in for it. others will have to have a bit of creativity in the front to make them fit. the rear will bolt in if you use a 6.5"-6.75" woofer.
  17. budget? I have them.
  18. do it this way. I take it you do not have a fuel cut on the alarm? if so then you have a problem. this is how I get timers to work. HOWEVER if you have a 3pt item IT WILL NOT WORK. ( nor do you need it if you have a mongoose.m80) see attachment:
  19. yes there is. HOWEVER its not reliable and VERY easily bypassed. you would have just cars for ins. I take it. may want to read the policy on that. from memory they specify a two point AUST STDS item.
  20. actually could also be the cable. know anyone with a clarion radio down your way ( or a shop) pop yours out and connnect it to another one. then work back from there.
  21. if you do it properly the relays will shut down. I use a decent sized capacitor to do it. same goes for opening.
  22. it can be done but its not the most secure way of doing things. if you find the wire that controls the extra relays , clip it , the car is gone.
  23. blk/red on the column harness. fuse it with a 5a fuse.
  24. bit of creativity will se it go both ways. you have to have constant 12v on them to make it work. do it right and it will open and close.
  25. off me if you like. I keep them in stock.
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