Chris Rogers

whta model is the sony unit?

yep they are lots of funs to remove and the stacker is a sony A30 unit. they are indeed factory fit on these cars and removing one involves a LOT of rewiring as EVERYTHING is tied to a module behind the rear seat. can't remeber the make of the actual unit but clarion ( denso) rings a bell for some reason. as usual the nav/tv wont work here. the stacker will be on its last legs as well. have fun..

2hypo, you ar based in newcastle correct? if so then you also do the work for repco on a national basis. ( NIS I think you are.) LW. I watched him do a antitheft on 20min flat several years back ( this was in his Precison Installations days.)

if you have the recommended volume for the sub then a bit of calculation is all that is really needed. to make one I would start with a 300mm dia tube. fill the ends with 20mm mdf and seal it WELL. fibreglass resin would be a start. ( this is for the back of it.) for the front cut the hole for the sub. as a rule its usually 25mm less than the sub size. for ports if the volume is correct then the recommended size will work fine. ( have done a few of them.)

to get the radio out remove the ashtray , remove the screw behind it and remove that panel. pop the a/c vents out and that will show you the two screws that you missed. for power cable drivers side wheel well. ( did one over the weekend so its still fresh.)

didn't know allan was still around. he does decent work. ( used to work with him in sydney years ago before he did his own thing.) also make sure they have a security licence.

sounds more like a laser issue to me..

amp wiring can come through the drivers wheel well. there is a body grommet inside it that will allow a decent sized cable through it.

thats a clarion unit.

yep but like most mobile guys that cruise around in cars with a small tool box at their feet I have literally a mobile work shop in the back of that van. haro, have replied to your email.

no thanks.. tidy it up a bit and add a few curves and it would look ok. too square for my liking.

just ground the wire. it will work then. I didn't say this..

on a n15 you can do it. the local ones here have thin crap brackets that have to be redrilled to work. it slides in and there is no need to do any cutting. the radio sits where the ac controls are on the jap n15 cj2 that you are thinking of. they also use a eurovox radio.( not sure what NZ new use) which is better than what oz gets. it has brackets and you can use them. the local one is done easier the other way. n13,n16 are a different matter.

yep it should have one. wont be listed at a timer though.

nope. that will help the reception but thats it. you still need the freq converter. I have them in stock if you want to get it from me.

arrgh! have any of you guys actually put one of these alarms in? it has the timer feature on it. I have tried in vain to get the alarm to work properly with a timer. the alarm side is fine. its the remote start that will stuff it up. in the end I told the fellow to use the one that was in it and set it for 3 minutes this was on a 32 gtst. normal alarms and timers do work. I've done them for the past 15 years.

should be inthe book. you will have to turn the option on first. those have a sequence that has to be followed BEFORE it will work.

once you get to the motor pull the whole thing out and pull it apart. you will see the broken cable in there- remove it. and put the motor back together and put it back in place. LEAVE THE TOP SCREW OFF! from there its a case of turning on the radio and letting the motor go all the way up. then feeding the antenna cable back into the motor and turning off the radio. should reload easily. from there screw the top nut on and you are done. I think the antenna mast is the same as a magna one so a trip to the local shop ( or me if you want to mail order one) will do the trick.

check your connections. sounds like you have the tweeter wired to the wrong crossover output.

that one has a timer on it. you can use the one you have BUT you wont be able to arm the alarm. a bit of creative wiring can fix this issure BUT you may not be able to remote start the car. best to use the one that is in the alarm.

any speaker will distort if you under power it. for the r33 the speakers are 6.5" and NOT a 6" ( they require a plate to mount them. 6.5 will screw in.) the JL ones you show in option two with a decent amplifer and a sub would work well. ( and fit properly.

if you haven't done this yet. remove the two screws above the A/c controls. remove the ashtay. pull centre trim out. disconnect the rear demister and the hazard switches. remove the existing radio and put the panel back on. use the radio cage and crimp it into place. the plugs are early nissan items so a nissan plug kit should help. match up the wires connect the antenna and slide the radio in

same wire. it should be blk/red.

and which one is yours?

4x6 on a plate. remove the plate and put what ever you want.