Craney

if its redline shockproof you put in your gearbox you might want to change it asap. Apparently the stuff makes the gear changes real smooth at first but the getrag gear boxes don't like the stuff (ie. they break). Do a search for getrag oils and you'll find some useful threads. If you wanna skip that, one of the recommended oils was castrol transmax Z.

not detonation/pinging. Have changed the fuel maps and timing to see if it is pinging and there was no change so we have already ruled that out. I'm pretty sure it's a mechanical problem that's making the noise. I'll try and keep an ear out to see if it gets worse. As for the running rich, the apexi wasn't the only indicator. The big give away was drowning people in black exhaust taking off at lights (not necessarily flooring it either). In idle it splutters and the exhaust smells of fuel badly. Another thing in low revs is if I'm cruising and want to accelerate i always get a large jerk out of the car, like it's had a massive misfire. Pretty sure it's just dumping fuel in without the air there (once again, no foot to floor, just touching it on). I guess what i was really asking is if anyone thought the old ecu could be conflicting with the new one even thought it supposedly only has the auxillary functions hooked up to it.

A couple of months ago i had my local tuner install a microtech into my R34 gt-t as well as a greddy boost controller, bosh in tank fuel pump. I got him to throw boost up to 12 psi as well and had it tuned. 1. My tuner tells me that microtech don't make a harness for the r34 model but tells me he shouldn't have a problem hardwiring it. So i go along and he was able to do most of it but it looks like he's still got the standard ecu wired in for some of the auxillary functions. Now everytime i get it back from a tune it's running rich and it seems to slowly get worse over time. Is this the two ecu's conflicting or is one of the sensors dodgy (already has a new 02 sensor and all the engine management crap is wired into the microtech). I have apexi turbo timer and looking at the a/f ratio it runs at 10.0 in idle (10 is the lowest it can read) and it never seems to break 12, rarely even gets up to 11 (flat to the floor or just cruising). WTF is going on?? 2. Also, now every time my turbo spools up (2-3k rpm) i hear this faint rattling noise. Been for a road tune with my tuner and it doesn't apear to be a tuning problem. Anyone had any similar problems.

Am thinking about converting my R34 gt-t to use a MAP sensor system similar to what the supras use. I have been told that it is a better system able to more accurately know what O2 is going to the engine. I was wondering if this will be worth it as i'm guessing it'll cost a fair bit of cash to do. Plus i plan to have my car professionally tuned with an aftermarket ecu so even if i still run using the air flow meter it should be pretty much spot on anyway.

I've got a mate in the oil supply market and he can get a hold of fuchs oils quite a bit cheaper than most others, but with a little bit of mucking around. Was just wondering what people think of fuchs oils. I've heard they're pretty good, but has anyone actually used them. Just want some opinions, and if anyone does use fuchs oils, please let me know what type.

Sweet as. I'll fiddle round with the wiring to make sure that's all good, then I guess I'll dive into the pockets. Thanks guys, big help (nengun a kick arse site)

My R34 finally arrived recently and have been loving the drive, very happy with it. However, lately some warning lights have been appearing (TCSoff, SLIP, engine malf). A quick look in my manmual tells me that the traction control has switched to fail safe mode, but the symptoms and the timing seriously make me think otherwise. It most regularly happens on the highway, sitting on the pretty much the same speed and revs for around 10 mins (110km/hr, 2700 revs). The engine malfunction light will come up and a second later the traction control lights come up. When this happens the engine power seems to drop, the tone changes from a smooth running engine to a kind of constant bubbly spluttery sound (make an engine sound, then flick your tongue in your mouth, kinda like that). Generally I can bring the tone back to normal by giving the accelerator a bit and getting it to boost again. Anyone else had this problem before, or have an idea?

Thanks for the feedback. 10-15k doesn't sound so bad, since I was willing to spend up to 30k over the next 2-3 years (decent job, few expenses). At least I got a starting point. Got another question or two though. With the exhaust, I'm happy to do 3" or more all the way through, but any advice on how to keep the noise down a bit?? The cops my way pull you up for anything when you're in an import. And has anyone tried dual exhausts with the skylines (just curious, i think it'd look pretty wicked). Also, once i get started is there anything I should look out for when i get the extra power. I just don't wanna be driving it around after i put some new turbos in it and something snaps under pressure.

Nice, cheers guys. That certainly saves the back pocket a bit. Will definitely check out the RB30 idea though.

Hey guys (and girls), just breaking my posting virginity for this site. Quick intro, I'm a modding newbie who'd probably blow the engine up just by looking at it. Nuf said. I'm going through this site and getting what info i can, but haven't found much on stroker kits. Basically, I've seen a few around that can take the RB26 up to 2800, for the small price of my balls, so to speak ($9000+) Are they worth it?? The sites I've seen them on say things like "Considerable increase in torque and power", and more commonly "You don't REALLY need two of them, and stroker kits are cool". So i was hoping someone who's done it, or knows someone that knows someone who's heard of someone that's done it could give me some honest feedback. p.s. any advice regarding modding of R33 GTR's welcome.