Chainfire

Hi, do you have the front bumper/fender liners? the black plastic bits that sit in the wheel arch, and behind the front bumper? If you do, please PM me, or SMS 0401 549 030. Thanks, Ben.

Depending on whether you prefer the wheels to stick out more, or sit nicely in the guards. However, with those offsets, the wheels will be sitting right inside the body, and it might look a bit weird. Not only that, as someone has already mentioned, because of the widths of the wheels, such a high offset may cause clearance issues on the in-side of the wheel, ie: fouling on suspension components. I would say that the front will very likely fit, but the rear is anyones guess. A safer, and better looking offset (in my opinion) would be anything between +36 and +30

I will take the front fender/bumper liners if they are available Please PM me, or SMS 0401 549 030 - Ben I will definitely take them if you have them. Thanks.

Do you have the inner guard liners? If so i'll take them! PM, or sms 0401 549 030. Thanks, Ben.

It's a shame the Varrstoen 2.2.1's aren't available in 8.5 or 9", I really want to avoid stretch as much as possible, I don't mind it too much, so long as the tyre atleast pushes up firmly against the lip of the rim. Would prefer the tyre sidewalls to look similar front to back as well. Oh well, I may have to settle with Rota's. 255's is what I'm using now on my current rims (17" G.max energy's), there's no reason why I can't use 265, other than not knowing if they will rub or not. I am actually picking up the car from panel and paint shop today, I was considering getting them to roll the guards while they were doing the respray, but I also have to take the car over the pits, so thought it best to leave that for now (just in case). Thanks for the advice and comments, I appreciate it My front fenders seem to like eating my tyres with my current setup (need to confirm the width and tyre size on my current wheels) I don't want to go too close to limits, and risk having more problems and ruining more expensive tyres. Have already spent way too much on this car I would prefer 9" fronts, so I may have to go with the Rota's to get that size. Thanks for the advice guys, I will be sure to post up pics and results when I go ahead with this.

I should also add, the look i'm going for is wheels flush with guard, I'm not a big fan of protrusion, or 'phat stance' (especially on a GTST, it just doesn't work..). I just want something sensible, and that won't chew out tyres if my car is set at a bit lower than legal. Don't mind having a bit of negative camber either, probably -1.5 maximum though.

Anyone have any thoughts on the below wheel specs for an R33 GTST that will be sitting at, or just below legal height? Varrstoen 2.2.1 Front Rims: 18x9.5 +34 / Front Tyres: 235 (Wanted 9" width for the front wheels, but seems Varrstoen Australia don't offer that width for 18") Rear Rims: 18x9.5 +30 / Rear Tyres: 255 or 265 Anyone had experience with or seen this spec of Varrstoen wheels fitted to an R33? I'm not going to roll the guards at this stage, and i'm also not a fan of stretched tyres. I don't mind a little bit of scrub (as a worst case scenario) so long as my tyres aren't getting chewed out. I've gone through this thread, and have a rough idea of what fits an R33 GTST and what doesn't, but I'd like to be fairly sure before I commit to buying wheels, so any thoughts or advice will be appreciated. If the consensus is that they won't fit without some issue, then i'll probably end up going with Rota grids, as they seem to offer a more suitable variety of sizes & offsets. Also have better customer service than Varrstoen... I've messaged Varrstoen 3 times now (once through the website, and twice on ebay) and no response as yet

That is the plan, right after I get the car registered. Which will likely be in 2 weeks!

Another T67 Some more info; T67-25G RB25 rebuilt with forged pistons, stronger bolts & bearings etc..) Quickspool exhaust manifold (almost identical to 6boost) Fake greddy plenum Link G4 ECU Big front mount 98 unleaded 18psi boost at the moment as I'm only using the built in 2.5bar link MAP, and a weak spring in the gate. I will get around to starting a proper build thread for my car, eventually...

Here is my result from Tuesday... Nothing amazing, as there were a few things holding it back. One of the main things mentioned was that my exhaust (which was very quiet on the dyno) seems to be restricting flow too much. Tuner said the engine seemed to be having trouble breathing. So i'll probably have to look at getting rid of the cat, and/or changing the muffler. (it is 3" all the way through). Exhaust cam timing wasn't adjusted this time due to the above ^^ This was also only on 18psi.

I agree with you Cowboy. But that's not exactly what I was saying. What I was saying, is that a bit of leniency should be given when dealing with a business who obviously is not making as much profit on a product as they potentially could be (ie: the kando turbo's - Good product for a great price). The money they save on not hiring, and training more staff, is probably a big part of the reason their product costs us a lot less. My experience with Kando was positive, although he did send me an incorrect flange with my turbo, he did correct the mistake at no cost to me whatsoever, even though I had only noticed their mistake 1 year after I had purchased the turbo. I attribute this mostly to my being patient, not pressuring him, and not being rude (it took them just over 2 weeks to get the correct flange to me, as they had to source it from another factory) he was very appologetic at the end of it all. Even though the mistake was made (people do make mistakes) he rectified the mistake without drama. I still class this as good service. You also have to look at his feedback record. 99% positive out of nearly 7000 transactions. He must be doing something right. Perhaps that other 1% just have much higher expectations on the kind of service they should be receiving, even when they are getting a bargain.

Like these ones pictured in the below link, not the smaller fender liners though (I already have those), the bigger ones behind them are the ones I need. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=218901

Do you have the front bumper liners? the ones that attach to the bumper and sit in the wheel arch? I'll take those if you still have them and are willing to post to Perth.

Ask him to do it on Tuesday, so I can see it.

Of course, I wouldn't have booked it in otherwise. I can understand Seans frustration over that. Is that just in general, or did he mention my car specifically? He did my run-in tune without any major drama's. There were a couple of minor unforseeable issues, like the thermo's suddenly deciding they didn't want to switch on anymore, or my spark plugs crapping out even though they were relatively new platinums. Only things that I have changed since he last saw it, are that the fans are being switched on via the ECU now, and boost controlled by a MAC valve via ECU (As per his suggestion).

In Kando's defence, he supplies a good quality, well performing product, at a third of the price of comparable products. You cannot really expect to also receive grade A service on top of that, especially when dealing via eBay (although, I did when I dealt with him). It's a trade-off, you have to take the good with the bad. In nisskid's defence, threatening to block simply because of neutral feedback is a bit unprofessional, and I would say poor business practice, he could have discussed it with him first before taking any drastic measures. Anyway, arguing over this is counter productive, and pointless! I'm taking my R33 with T67-25G to Allstar on Tuesday, after having done the 1000km run in. Hopefully will see some impressive power figures. Just with 98 unleaded for now...

How bad is the dent? and what condition is the bonnet lining? (if it still has it) I may be interested...

Do you have the front bumper liners? (Not the actual bumper) but the black plastic bits that attach to it and sit in the wheel arch... If you have both sides, and assuming you're willing to post to Perth, I will take them off your hands. Please PM or sms me - 0401 549 030 Thanks, Ben

Yeah, that's what we were thinking. I wonder how strict they are with the permits though. Like, for example, If I were to list an address/workshop in Dunsborough on the permit. I may just call the DPI and ask if they would allow for a long distance drive, for the purpose of running in a rebuilt engine. I've heard mixed advice/opinions on this, but in the end I've just decided to play it safe, and do the run-in. Probably won't do the full 1000km though.

All went well yesterday, no power figures as yet, as Allstar just did a run-in tune (7psi & 4k rev limit). Need to do 1000k run in now. Only problem is, the car isn't registered! Has anyone got any advice as to how to go about running in an engine on an unregistered car? (without doing it on a dyno). Was thinking to just get a 48 hour movement permit, but not sure how strict they are with those... Anyone done this before? Also, on the topic of Kando/Kamak products. A while ago I was in search of a decent 50mm blow off valve, but couldn't really afford the price tag on a Tial or Turbosmart BOV. I searched for ages, and ended up coming to the conclusion that I could either a) just suck it up and buy an expensive item, and know that it will be quality, or b) skimp out and risk buying one of the cr@ppy brands on ebay, and hope that it does the job properly. But then I happened to stumble across this one on ebay (which didn't turn up in any of my previous searches for some reason). I discovered that kando sells a 50mm Kamak BOV, and it is quite in-expensive; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KAMAK-Turbo-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-50mm-w-3-typs-Spring-/280913545263?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4167c0882f I currently have this fitted, and as of yesterday, I can say I'm quite impressed with the quality of it so far. Won't be able to fully vouch for it's quality until the car is tuned for higher power, but perhaps this is another kando product that can perform and at only a fraction of the price. The only problem so far, is that I got a tiny bit of 'flutter' sometimes, when coming off light boost, but i'm thinking I may just need to put a weaker spring in there. Will update once I've seen how it performs under full boost conditions. Also, when I purchased this a few months ago, it was priced at $150 inc. delivery, but it looks as though they have bumped the price to $150 + $25 delivery since.

Not Antisurge, it's the same as SimonR32's. Bought it over a year ago when I started the build. Where can I get these tiger stripes, and how many kw's do they add?

For mine? 98 for now. If it survives the run-in and initial power tune, I will explore using a different fuel (Probably E85).

Having my R33 RB25 with Kinugawa T67-25G tuned at Allstar this Monday. Engine is freshly rebuilt, and running a Link G4. Will post results as soon as I have them

Hi, If you have the front bumper liners and are willing to post to Perth, then I will take them. PM, or sms me on 0401 549 030. Thanks, Ben

Hey interloper, do these also fit in the side breather port for RB25 rocker covers? Same size? I forgot to check with the pair I have, before I tapped them in to the top ports.