silman

I'd recommend against that for these reasons; 1 - A CAS is easier and cheaper (if you're not installing it yourself) to install than a camshaft. 2 - I had the same thought of mind as you, until i went through two 2nd hand CAS's within 6 months.

I bought a brand new Genuine Nissan R33 CAS from perfect run in 4 working days for around $500 delivered, hope that helps. (I was quoted $880 locally in Brisbane from the dealer with a 2 week wait from Japan).

Yeah i found i could only fit 2 12's. so how about the wiring size?

could you guys give an update as to how happy you've been with these thermo's having had them installed a little while? A few questions; What gauge wiring did you use? Did you have any issues with the alternator? Did you upgrade the wiring to the alternator? I purchased a pivot fan controller and 2 spal high flow 12" fans rated at 1630cfm each. with one turned on, it runs at 90 degrees water temp and the alternator handles it no probs. With 2 turned on it runs at 79 degrees, but the load on the alternator goes from being constant 14 degrees, and dipping down to low 12's at bumper to bumper traffic on my Power FC readout. This is 10 gauge wiring going through a 30 amp relay each fan. I have purchased some 4 gauge wiring to try as a fix, but am wondering if it's just a case of the 80 amp alternator not being good enough?

sorry, shipped off to buyer a couple of days ago.

I've got a set of new fibreglass N1 vents for sale. Purchased from Justjap last year but never used. These are $300+ each genuine from Nissan. These were $145 new, will sell for $80 (plus whatever aus post cost is if you're outside of Brisbane) cheers.

I've got a set of new fibreglass N1 vents for sale. Purchased from Justjap last year but never used. These are $300+ each genuine from Nissan. These were $145 new, will sell for $80 (plus whatever aus post cost is if you're outside of Brisbane) cheers.

I have an R33 RB25DET in my 180SX. I don't have the room with the stock radiator support to fit the stock clutch fan, so I'm running 2 spal 12" thermos controlled by a pivot fan temp controller instead. This is the exact 12" fan I'm running in the car (2 of them) - http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automated/tech...s/2038-2025.pdf My mechanic has tested these and stated they're drawing 30amps when they turn on. The power draw from the fans when they switch on drops the voltage from 14volts down to low 12's. Whilst he says it's ok to drive it, it's a bit annoying during night time driving when the fans kick in, as I can feel a jolt in the car. Also the driver in front probably thinks i'm flashing my headlights at them =) I'd like to look at replacing the alternator and leave my current one as a spare for somewhere down the line. Can anyone who has installed a replacement alternator in there RB25 advise what they used where they got it from? So far I've seen an aftermarket MSD one, but can you get aftermarket "universal" Bosch ones to bolt on? Also, is the stock item rated at 90a?

I have an apexi top mount cast manifold, and found out that the gasket that sits between the external wastegate flange and my tial external, has a leak. I haven't had time to take the car in yet, but will next Tuesday. A few weeks back when I posted here, we could not hear the leak, but now it is audibly loud from as ealy as 2500rpm. We're thinking the cast manifold must have a slight warp on the surface where the wastegate is bolted to which is a pain, because it will have to be removed to be machined.

When I swapped it over, it still drove ok without a retune. I was able to drive a few days around the place before I put it on the dyno. The idle was fine.

Yes, I got the dyno done and the replacement Z32 is working fine. Not so happy with the power output though of 200kw non shootout mode. It is a low reading dyno, but I was expecting more power. At 1.3bar it's making 190kw at 5500rpm, but then it just flatlines the power curve. Even at 1.5 bar it gives slightly better mid range, but the same flattening out of the power curve occurs. The boost does not drop off at all with the AVCR, it holds steady to redline. My tuner thinks it's the justjap intercooler I bought, and suggested that I replace it for a thicker ARC item with low pressure loss. The AVCR Duty cycle is at 40% and holds boost steady. Knock count is at 14 W.O.T. with an AFR of 10.0 from 6000rpm to redline. What I have is; Series 1 RB25DET with 1.8mm headgasket. (newly built with 6000km run in) Standard cams Apexi pod filter & Z32 Greddy Inlet Manifold Apexi Cast top mount exhaust manifold Garrett GT30/40 .63 Tial 38mm external wastegate Greddy Type R BOV plummed back Power FC and AVCR 720cc Nismo's. 60x30x76 tube and fin FMIC with 2.5" piping throughout. 3" exhaust from the turbo back. Should I put money towards an ARC intercooler, or should I install a set of 256/264 hks camshafts next? Is the 1.8mm headgasket lowering compression so much that it is effecting the amount of boost I have to run to reach my target of 250kw?

I believe the "whining" noise you refer to is actually the gearset in the gearbox, not a belt drive.

I'm pretty sure you bought your Z32 from the same place I did, going by the plug you have with it. My faulty Z32 looked like yours did, and it actually drove fine, it's just when you went to put the foot down on the dyno, it maxed out at 5 volts, where a regular R33 GTS-T air flow meter would normally do the same (around 190-200kw). They keep all customer's names in there system. I had actually lost my receipt too, but they did a search on my name, and I actually had evidence of my paypal payment, which was enough for them. They actually went out of there way to fax me a copy of the receipt stating, return for warranty refund, exchange on receival written on it. Whilst this was a drama, the sponsor did do the right thing, and replace the item for a working one, but as you stated, this does not change the fact, that I outlayed $330 for a dyno tune, which I am out of pocket for

Thanks for the confirmations and support I installed the AFM, checked it was on Z32 80 VG30 in the Power FC and started it up. It is working fine, and is driving fine around the block. Knock count is no higher than 15 from the few times I drove around the suburb testing it out tonight. It's normally only at around 5 or 6, but this should be ok until I get it to the shop. PFC voltage screen was showing roughly 1.4 on idle if i recall properly, and I thinkit's going to about 2.5 volts regular driving (hard to see those results table whilst driving) Could you confirm where you guys purchased your AFM's from?

Update - I sent the AFM back on Monday 23rd by Australia Post Registered Mail. From the pictures you will see who the shop was, but I am not going to remove the sticker in case of any future dramas. After not receiving my warranty replacement by this Monday the 30th of April (7 days later), I rang to follow up and was advised it had not been received. I rang the Australia Post customer enquiries, and quoted the number that had been hand written on the "registered post" yellow slip. That number did not appear in there system, but they stated they would open an investigation if no word back on Wednesday the 2nd. I then Rang the shop on Wednesday Morning to ask if it had turned up yet, and was again advised it had not. I rang Australia Post immediately after and advised them the store still had not received the item, so they started the investigation, and rang me back the next day (today) advising the number written on the slip was a 6 instead of a 0, and that the item was delivered last week, on Thursday the 26th of April!. Trying to keep my temper under control I rang back the store for a third time and advised Aus Post had delivered it on 26th and it had been signed for by a T. ____ (name withdrawn). This person put me on hold for a minute and checked and stated "oh yeah, it's here.. we'll send it to you express post today". Fortunately it arrived today and here are the pictures; The 3 immediate differences, is that all of the black plastic looks newer, is a darker shade of black, it does not have the Nissan Logo etched into the side of it, and the orange sticker is different. All of the mesh is perfect on this item, and it was also delivered in a proper Bosch box, instead of the generic brown cardboard box of the same size, that I received with the original "faulty" item. I have dealt with this store a few times in the past and have never had any issues, but this experience has been a sour one. I am about to install this after this post, and try to get the car idling/running as good as I can so that I can actually drive the car to the shop to ge retuned on the dyno. I will post an update to advise how this Z32 turns out. Cheers. .. .. ..

The mesh was exactly like this when it arrived. Other than that it looks like all the rest I've seen on here. Sending it off for replacement tomorrow.

Rang the sponsor today and they have no hesitation in me sending back the AFM for a warranty replacement. When i purchased this, it did not arrive in a bosch box, rather, just a brown generic box, but in a clear plastic bag. The sponsor stated that a few of these had been returned last year due to the exact same reason of maxing out to early, and some customers weren't happy that they were received one without the genuine box. There is a 12 month warranty on the AFM, but I guess i'm one of the odd few, that just never got around to installing it until now. I've been advised that the replacement AFM will also be another new genuine item, but will be delivered with the genuine bosch box. For those that asked if the right selection was made in the Power FC, yes it is set for Z32. We put the stock afm back on, and it operated at around 4.7 approx same power output.

Where abouts were these Z32's purchased from?

Cubes - Correct me if i'm wrong, but should a boost leak have anything to do with the voltage of the afm? metered air being drawn through before the compressor is it not? My mechanic also mentioned that this could be one of those copy AFM's, it was bought through a sponsor on this site, and looks identical to the ones pictured in just about every search result i found tonight.

AVCR, Defi Gauge, and seperate external gauge all read 1.2 bar - no boost leaks evident.

Yeah it can make a lot more power, but because the AFM is showing 5 volts it's maxed out and that is the point of this thread - to determine why it's maxed out so early. The dyno is one of the lowest reading one's in Brisbane, a few people i know have taken the car for a power run at other shops straight after and read 30kw extra at the wheels. The car only feels fast to me because i've done a 5000km run in with no more than 4000rpm the entire time. How many people have purchased a new Z32 AFM and found it to be faulty straight after install? I've done a search but haven't found any posts on this here.

Sent my RB25DET 180SX for a dyno run yesterday after having run the new engine in for over 5000km's. it was running the stock RB25DET AFM, but I couldn't install the Z32 plus tomei plug until it got tuned yesterday. The GT30/40 turbo is installed and the car at 1.2bar is making 190kw but the Z32 is maxed out at 5 volts already. The car drives perfectly fine but the AFM is maxing out for some reason so early. The setup is using a Power FC with AVCR, and apexi air filter. 720cc nismo injectors and Tomei 270 fuel pump Any suggestions as to what could be wrong? it's the usual orange stickered JECS item (22680 30POO A36000 N62).

Update - tried the CAS from a working car, set it to the middle position with 3 washers and it was at 15+ ignition at idle, so it's new CAS time for me. Just to help out anyone who is looking for a new one in the future and comes across this thread, Justjap can source 2nd hand ones for double that price ^ Highway Nissan in Brisbane wanted $883 delivered, none in Australia has to come from Japan and will take 3 weeks. www.perfectrun.com.au sells it for $490 brand new + delivery and it will be here in 3 days. I've successfully purchased from them about 10 times, absolute godsend

What ballpark figures have people been paying for new crank angle sensors for R33's? I have searched and found only one post stating it was around $900. I have had 1 CAS go to 20 degrees retarded timing no mater what setting the CAS was on (with the timing belt cover on) 2nd time around, removed the cover, and used 3 washers to space out the 2nd hand CAS ($300) to stop it from grinding the insider part of it against the block. Currently at full tilt to the left, it is only giving 5 degrees advanced timing at idle. The odd thing is though, that when only slightly loosening one of the bolts, the idle changes. The washers are spacing the CAS roughly 4-5mm away from the engine. For those not using the cover, how many mm is yours spaced out? My mechanic does not want to proceed in dyno tuning my car which I trust his decision, stating that whilst i have a power fc and he can advance the timing, it is a bandaid solution and not ideal. Going to borrow someone's CAS tomorrow to confirm the bad news of another replacement CAS to purchase.

os giken twin plate str2cd here for an r33 gts-t box. it's noisy only when you put your foot on the clutch. - the sound will not go away - mine was installed brand new, and 6000km's later it's still there, and will always be there. You will get use to it.