tazsgtr

Thanks Paul it worked. Now i just need to tune the unit to get rid of the detonation. Jeff

Thanks Paul. I had read your FAQ but didn't realize that the ignition needed to be cycled after the DATA INIT. I'll give it a try and keep the ignition off for at least a few seconds.

The unit is used. the inj/ing settings do not show zeros. It retains what it was even when shut down and the battery is pulled and residual electricity is drained from the system. Changes I have made prior to the DATA INIT are retained. when i DATA INIT and reboot the car, the settings are retained. Although after I did the 30 min idle it seems to idle better. Thank for your help or at least trying.

So if it is locked, I can make changes using the commander but it will not re-initialize?

I have a power fc l-jetro and depsite the fact that I try to initialize the setting to default, it seems to retain all the changes. Does anyone know the default ignition map, injector map and airflow setting? Thanks

I know that when you first install a Power FC you need to let it idle for 30 minutes. But if you reset a used Power FC, do you have to let it idle for 30 minutes as well?

Anyone know how the quality of these compares to the ones from Ultimate Auto, which were the ones from the previous group buys? There used to be a fairly large price difference between the two but the prices have come closer. Ultimate Auto claimed they used semi-leather (whatever that really is). Also is the logo stitched on or merely embossed?

Just wondering if you can run the HKS 2530 on a stock R33 RB26DETT? My engine and turbos need replacing and I have been recommended the following: R33 RB26DETT(used) Tomei 555 injectors x6 Tomei Fuel pump Tomei head gasket(1.5mm) Tomei Reytec engine management system HKS2530 I know that the upgrades wont hurt in the long run but are they really necessary? I was wondering if I need to replace the injectors, head gasket and add the Raytec or any other ECU? My understanding was that the HKS2530 was a direct bolt on and flowed more than the R34 N1 turbo but is it really necessary to change out everything recommended? Thanks

Does anyone have the specification or know where I can get them for things such as the OS Giken 3.0 kit or the HKS V-Cam. I am looking into rebuilding my GTR engine and there are other companies that I can get components for and want to figure out whether I can piece together the required components without having them imported from Japan ( I live in Canada and know that I can get pistons, connecting rods etc... from the US). Thanks.

Thanks for replies. I actually blew out at least one turbo. I was doing about 50k and wasnt' even really boosting at the time. I could hear something was not quite right b/c as I stepped on and let off the accelerator, I could hear a rattle. Slowed down to 30k and then went to slowly accelerate and heard a pop and a lot of loud rattling. I'm checking the engine now to see if I damaged the rings or valves. I was thinking about getting a bigger fuel pump or an auxillary to boost fuel pressure. I would not change the duty cycle but just increase the fuel pressure to flow more fuel through the injectors when they are open. I have an aftermarket exhaust, no cat, aftermarket intake pods and ecu. Not quite sure which ecu but I know that boost never went over .7 bar.

I was considering replacing the stock turbo on my R32 with the Garrett 707160-5, which I know is bigger than the R34 N1. I have two questions: 1. After reading about all I could find on the 707160-5, I was under the impression that you could basically mount these on a relatively stock car (I have a 1989 R32 GTR with aftermarket exhaust, no cat, after market pod intake and after market ECU). I was advised by a shop that I would have to change my injectors, ECU and cams or have a good chance of blowing the engine. It this true? If this is true, then I will likely go with the Garrett 707160-7 b/c I really don't want to upgrade things at this time. Don't get me wrong, I want a turbo that will support up to 500 BHP for when I make the modifications later. But if I have to modify those other parts now then I will just stick with the 707160-7, which should be able to flow 450 BHP. 2. I've reviewed the R32 GTR Manual and the removal and install does not look that complicated but I was advised that it could take at least a day or even two (depending on how badly things are rusted and seized). It this an accurate estimate. From the manual, it looks like it shouldn't take more than a couple hours. I assume that there are coolant lines that I need to remove as well so are they taking into consideration the time to drain the coolant and oil? Any assistance would be greatly appreciate. Thanks.

I've seen an Autostyle R32 with quad headlights. Does anyone know who makes them, where I can get them and how much they are? Thanks.