SMOKEYV35

I just got an angle grinder and cut off whatever part of the bracket hung out below the rear number plate.

Here's my Vertex Digna lip

One from 100mm show on the weekend

That's the guy, Lee. His name is Masato - I spoke to him on the phone a few times and verified him before transferring my cash. He was good to deal with. Took some quick pics just in the garage.

<br />My stuff is from Japan. Bought it off the ex-Vertex importer in QLD. It has all the jap documentation/instructions/metal plaque/stickers etc - so it is very much available from Jap given i can't understand a single word on the paperwork! He had an entire lip kit which I was trying to buy - we agreed on a price and postage but when he went to courier it the postage price quadrupled, so I had to pull out and take just the lips. If you're in QLD I can give you his details, he had two complete kits left, all brand new. He was asking $1300. Rrp for the lip kit is USD 2600 - the lip spoilers are nearly 500 each. Such good quality, finished in gel coat, hi filled and sanded - my panel beater didn't even have to prep them.

I'm 5AT with paddle shift - I just select 'D' and I'm done! Plenty of room for cups/bottles/etc

Look up 'Vertex Digna v35' on google images. Same as the black one.

Got my interior trim pieces back from paint. Put LED lights in the cup holder. Also colour coded the GT badge to match my calipers (it's the little things, right?) and fitted the Vertex roof and boot lips. No pics though.

Rears take about 20 mins a side

glad i saw this - my interior is pretty much stripped to this point right now anyway, so i will do the filter tonight - give it a soak and see how it comes up.

I think it's also got to do with the really long wheel base on these things. It means even when you angle you're not going to make much difference by the time the opposite rear wheel climbs the incline. The US guys ride them this low all the time, and only damage seems to be exhausts (replace flanges with V-bands for some extra clearance) and rear subframe bolts getting ground down (cut off, replace, meh). I do worry about the fuel tank tho, as that seems to scrape when angling up gutters sometimes (sits in front of the passenger wheel?) and I reckon a metal undertray for the front would be a wise investment..... I looked at cup kits for a while and then decided that spending another 4k on suspension just to overcome the shortfalls of the design was crazy - so i'm just gonna buy a daily and save the skyline for the occasions where i can be bothere setting up all the ramps to get it out of the driveway lol.

You any register a car in a state you don't live in, and it's an offense to own a car registered in another state when you reside in another. Basically car must be in your name registered in the state you live in.

That may be the case if the vehicle was already registered in your name in the other state. Vic roads says you need to do all the the things you do and that in some cases a RWC is required - and to call for details. Clear as mud! <br /><br />All I know is that last year I bought a car from Sydney. To get it registered in my name I had to a)get a RWC b) book an appointment for inspection c) the inspector asked me to bring the vehicle round to inspection bay to check numbers. <br /><br />It was a 2008 Mazda MPS with no mods, so not like the kind of car to raise alarm bells. I remember all this clearly as it was around the time all the hail damaged cars were getting VIVs and every inspection center was booked out for 3 weeks - so I had to drive to ballarat to get a slot.

I'd be getting the codes read. If it really is pinging, that is not a good thing - engines will only tolerate that for so long before they say 'enough!!'

I know like any mass produced coilover where they overcome limited valving options using different spring rates that the ride can be hit and miss but the research i did on people using them in 350's and on g35driver suggested they were very good in this platform. Similar to when i had my 530 M-sport - all the e39 M5 owners swore by them, even over much more expensive german coilovers. Sometimes they just get it right. As for preload - there are pretty specific instructions, especially in the rear due to the OEM style setup (separate spring and shock). As i said, i haven't driven the car yet. I'll wait for the springs to settle first, then I'll adjust height and preload - then do my damping. But i'm also missing one 20 inch rim at the moment, with a 17 in it's place - so it's sitting a bit skew-if at the time being, can't do any adjustments till i get that wheel back. Sean - the drop is pretty flexible. I have a good 1.5 inches up and down from where they are right now. I'm not about riding it in the weeds, but if you wanted to go low you could. At the height it currently sits, it is 100mm clearance at plastic cover in front of the rear subframe and 110mm at the undertray at the front, and I'm pretty happy with the way the wheels sit in the gaurds, but will plan to drop it a little more at the front, but I want to maintain 100mm clearance.

be a dick then

should not ping unless something is hugely wrong. knock sensors should be kicking in way before any of this happens. is the car laggy under acceleration? done any intake mods recently?

you will also need to present the car to vic roads for a visual inspection, which will mean booking an appt at a location that can do that - you can't just present the RWC and pay the stamp duty and transfer as per a previously vic rego'd car. Other than that it is straight forward. Have a look at CEVA for transport rates. I got a car from Syndey to Melbourne, depot to depot on a CEVA truck for 160 last year.

Dropped my car on the deck with the BC's in - didn't even touch the settings out of the box - have less than a finger gap all round and clears the rolled guards by 2-3mm on full compression, and 100mm clearance underneath so I am stoked! pretty happy with how it looks - now to see how it rides an handles.

Yeh I thought that might be the case. I used a motive power bleeder and put through two and a bit bottles until no bubbles came out. Bled three times in total and even knocked the calipers with a mallet to break loose any air pockets. So maybe I will see how it feels on the street and if not up to scratch I will try the old method.

Mushilea - what order did you bleed the brakes in? I followed the g35 FSM which said drivers rear, passenger front, passenger rear, drivers front.....haven't driven the car yet but I'm questioning the process. I understood to always bleed from furthest point from master cylinder.

That sucks. That would do my head in to spend that sort of coin and come out with a less than 100% result. May as well strip the interior and cage it and tell everyone one "because race car" !

Mmmkay. I'll call you "Manuel" until then..... :-P

Was thinking that given they were taking payments! All good, now lets hope the weather plays nice.

Adjustable arms next??