battery

Personally I don't think PFC knock is reliable I would get it tuned by someone with a standalone knock detection device

What setup are you planning to run Sarge? Im going highmount with the stock plenum so im thinking about getting a pipe like on Roy's car made up. The issue is where would be the best place to place the AFM considering the wiring and also I think the pipe will have to be 3" to make that AFM in pipe mod possible so ill probably need a reducer at the radiator join or do the entire cold side in 3".....

has anyone tried doing this with an AFM? I'd like to do the same but in the cooler piping instead of the intake.

you wont get a voltage checking like that. Its only gonna register at the point in time when it is actually sensing knock. basically theres a crystal in there and when it is compressed it will output a voltage, between 0.4-2v depending on the severity of the knock. I guess you could try tapping the sensor or the engine while hooked up to a multimeter.

pics of the intake and pod please

you must have looked after it, I haven't had to touch a thing

had this for about 6 months, never thought i'd own a 33 but i manage to tolerate the 4 door

Nice!

has anyone tried the Kando Dynamic TD06L2-20g 10cm rear on an rb25 yet? I have an adapter to run an external gate on the stock manifold and i just want to hit 280rwkw, im thinking the L2 may fall short?

yeh i have tried this its better but still manages to hit 70 very easy...

hey trent i have this "false knock" issue im trying to sort out perhaps you have some ideas... i have a rb25 with a power FC making 200kw, basically i get crazy knock readings and i'd really like to fix it so i can have a go at tuning the car. on startup it will read 20-40 and i can be driving along in any gear around 3000-4000rpm not much load and it will shoot up to 80-100. On WOT it can hit 200. I have had 2 different tuners check the car out and they reckon its fine, its been in this state of tune for over 20000ks with no issues. I have a 5 puk exceedy clutch, oil cooler and relocation kit, other than than that its pretty standard. I have tried changed the knock sensors but there was no change. whats the best way to eliminate this problem??

anyone got a blown r33 turbo lying around??

if the diff comes with the housing ill take it

hey guys im after a standard rb25 turbo PM ME located in melb SE suburbs

http://www.orp.org.au/Policies.html some good stuff there! we need this bad in VIC

wouldn't a 3071 be a better match for his target?

i had the exact same problem when i did my rb25 conversion.. I traced it to the one of the plugs near the power steering fluid bottle and then solved it by adding another relay into the mess....

tuning it out with a a boost controller is retarded... your loosing power/responce. get some good tyres, ku36's would do the job. and if you still have an issue then i'd be very suprised. also getting coilovers could make it worse.

lol you need better tyres... if your having this problem in 3rd or 4th then i'd say you are experiencing a slipping clutch, might sound funny but i know plenty of people who have mistaked a slipping clutch for wheel spin.

hmm i wonder if it would come close to fitting in my r33 4 door.....

get the stock kit add tuff rims and lower.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GOPRO-GO-PRO-HD-1080P-HERO-MOTORSPORTS-VIDEO-CAMERA-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb1e06168QQitemZ200552767848QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories give u $240 for it....

THIS!!!

they do

they also make a TD06H... these all come with the 10cm rear KINUGAWA TD06H -20G Turbocharger Compressor wheel: 52.5 / 68 mm Turbine Wheel: 58.8 / 67 mm KINUGAWA T67-25G Turbocharger with T3 Flange Comp. Whee: 60.2/78mm (25G) Turbine Wheel: 54 / 61 mm (11 Blades) KINUGAWA TD06SL2 -20G Turbocharger Compressor wheel: 52.5 / 68 mm Turbine Wheel: 54.1 / 61 mm how would the td06h compare to the td06l2?