battery

nice result! whats it like to drive? would you say the response is acceptable on the street?

yeh i could stomach $500.. i think ill wait for simons result before i decide on anything, should be interesting... what are the lines and fittings included in the kit like?

the adaptor i have is similar to this... but yeh that t67 is pretty big ill be putting it into a 33 which i think will give me a little more room? i'd love a 6 boost but im not really interested in paying the $1300 to get one!! there seem to be a few guys pushing 260-270kw with the td06L2 8cm rear on sr20/rb20, so i think it may be possible to get to 280kw with the 10cm rear...

interested to see how u go with that turbo i have been thinking about using the same one except low mounted on the stock manifold with a spacer/wastegate adaptor. but im thinking its gonna be restricted greatly by the manifold so i might just use their td06L2 with the 10cm rear.....

yeh thats what i thought, seems strange cause they have been up for sale for a while now... also spotted this they claim its a genuine item too... but apparently all turbosmart gates are made in Australia so its a definite fake. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/GENUINE-TURBOSMART-38mm-ULTRA-GATE-Tial-Wastegate-/150524346602?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230bf340ea

yeh i could be interested in the manifold, gate and front/dump as long as i can fit a td06/td07 on it.

so i'm in need of a wastegate to fit a standard 38mm 2 bolt flange, i jumped on ebay and noticed these turbosmart gate's for $170 shipped from Singapore. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbosmart-Wastegate-External-Ultra-Gate-38mm-Tial-/280601345110?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415524bc56 it looks pretty good but im concerned of the authenticity seeing as though i have seen these forsale locally for over $400. has anyone bought one? are they the real deal?

this is retarded your gonna have to change looms and ecu too.. anyway drop the box first then pull the engine out. you unbolt the tail shaft in the center and then slide it out of the box, drop the fluid first. you will need a trolley jack for sure the box is heavy and you need to angle it to get to the top bolts...

what pipe is it? chances are you should be able to get one here or from a wreckers . maybe take a pic

not sure if i missed it but where can i buy this vinyl for a good price? is this a decent deal? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3M-Di-Noc-Carbon-Fi...=item1e5fe32142

just because you beat him does not make your car better lol.....

whats even sadder is some guy who thinks his nissan is a better car than an AMG Mercedes....

i always thought the laser detection/jammer would be a waste of time because if the cops don't get a reading they are gonna come after you anyway?

hey guys i have a few cars i have to do and was gonna buy one of those guard rollers for $200 of ebay, i've done it with poles and hammers before but its a pain in the ass! does anyone have one that i could buy/borrow/rent? prefer SE suburbs. cheers!

how much does this cost? is it possible to calculate the new offset? say you have some 17x9 +20 and you get then widened to a 17x10 what will the new offset be?

sounds to me like you just want to be able to tell people you have a forged engine and that you built it yourself..... as far as im concerned a standard rb25 thats been serviced and tuned well should hit 200000ks no worries, i'd also trust an unopened used engine more than a first time forged item some guy built in his shed. your basically spending 5k+ for bragging rights?

that's a very interesting mentality....... I find that alot of these "top quality" parts are way overpriced and often a cheaper option can be used to obtain 99% of the result.

got a bonnet?

hey roy where did you get this crossover pipe from the plenum down to the cooler?

if you wanna split ill take the manifold, gate and injectors. may also be interested in some of the door rubbers if they are in decent condition. let me know if you end up stripping. not often you get a chance to get parts for r33 4 doors

yeh your underestimating the reliability of an untouched rb25. 200000kms with a decent tune and regular servicing is almost expected!

people run 16psi through the stock turbo for years and have no issues. they dont really make much power over 14psi so i say run it at that and if it blows well its only gonna cost you $100 and half a day to replace one. if your worried about detonation its best to get the AFR's checked on a dyno which depending on where you go will cost between $60 and $100.

check timing then hook up consult and check for errors and report back!

yeh thats normal and safe. i was running 1 bar(14.7psi) through a stock rb20 turbo for 3 years and about 60000ks (had 124000ks on it already when i bought it) and it was still in great condition when i pulled it out.

yeh i dunno about this personally i think rb20's are highly underrated and very usable up to the 250kw range, i'd never remove a running one for a 25. when my last rb20 blew a headgasket i went engine hunting, i already had a rb25 box in the car so i got a rb25 engine cheap and dropped that in. now both of these engines were running stock turbos with 1 bar of boost the rb20 would be around 160kw and the 25 was making 193kw. the 25 was a decent upgrade but if i had a 25 turbo on the 20 i dont think the gap would of been all that great..... i also think its crazy to rebuild a perfectly good running engine but if your deadset on doing a rebuild i'd be looking at a 25/30 build for the 3L's of fury!