battery

sucks that you are having so much trouble with this man. the only thing that i can think of is a knock sensor kicking in, it won't show up as a fault on the ECU. you can test it if put a 1M ohm resistor between the signal wire and ground thats tricks it into think everything is fine. what is injector pulse and AFM voltage supposed to be? i got no idea if a tune will fix it, trent from status would be the man to talk to though.

my mate got quoted something stupid from Nissan, so in the end he got a generic one from bursons and modified it to fit.

its in melb and would be dirt cheap, just pm me if you need his details.

to be honest i think it is much more cost effective to just slap in an rb25... i have just replaced my blown rb20 with a rb25 i bought for $1600 it is 15000k old from rebuild but if you get unopened ones they can be had for around 1k, the whole conversion cost me no more than 2k and was dead easy. i gained a good 40kw and a bucket load of torque, most of this 40kw was due to the larger rb25 turbo but still the power delivery between a rb20 with a 25 turbo and the stock rb25 is very noticeable IMO. this is abit OT but im just trying to find out how roy and the other rb20 fanatics justify investing buckets loads of $$$ into an inferior engine. that said i did enjoy the rb20 and i think its a highly underrated engine, i would never replace a running rb20 with an rb25 because i was happy with the power and response of a stock turbo'ed rb20. but i think if you are considering a turbo upgrade on a stock rb20 you should look at a rb25 conversion first. just makes sense to me if you are considering rebuilds and even turbo upgrades to start with a better base engine especially seeing as rb25's are not much more expensive than the rb20 these days... not having a go at you guys just wanna know your reasoning for staying with the rb20 or in roys case rb24's or whatever else hes planning for it

whats it cost to get done?

sounds like an AFM problem to me.

i got a mate who's got a blown rb20 GTS4 engine if your looking for one.

my old rb20 would stay rock solid between 78-82c highest i got it was 87c the rb25 i have now is all over the place it will get up to 90c after 5 mins of idling in hot weather usually idles around 84ish but when i hit the freeway in the morning and give it a bit in 2nd/3rd out of the off ramp it will go down to 74c... then back up to 78c while cruising in 5th at 3000rpm. i think the water pump is on the way out, i get a little whine on idle so that's probably the cause.

i got http://r32skylines.com/ if you want it... i dunno if this will work though, i mean you can get everything you want here why move? but in saying that i'd join up.

what are you using for boost control? ecu errors?

still not quite sure you understand what i said, just to make sure im saying put probe on one end of white/blue and the other probe on the orange/blue, you should get infinity if not you have a short, i would also check them between ground too. the guy who did the wiring may have done a good job but maybe when the loom was installed it got damaged on a sharp edge etc..

still not quite sure you understand what i said, just to make sure im saying put probe on one end of white/blue and the other probe on the orange/blue, you should get infinity if not you have a short, i would also check them between ground too. the guy who did the wiring may have done a good job but maybe when the loom was installed it got damaged on a sharp edge etc..

might be an idea to unplug both ends of the loom and check resistance between the wires, there might be a short somewhere. its my understanding that on a cold start under 3k rpm the afm won't have much effect on anything the temp sensor does however. but this is all irrelevant if the car is not even starting now. who did the wiring?

i dunno people rave about these guys but i've been there about 6 times and each time the car drive's differently, only once was i happy with it. i would not recommend.

rb20 boxes are pretty easy to do on the ground by yourself. i have done a rb25 box on the ground by myself definitely not easy but can be done with a bit of imagination. GTR boxes almost impossible to do by your self, but not to bad with two people. i sit the car on some busted 9" wide rims at each wheel then put the box on a trolley jack roll it in and jack up, they slide in very easy aslong as you have the box on the right angle.

i have the same problem with my car, i dont think you can adjust the LCA. i think adjusting the castor could solve this problem but i don't understand why the aligner didn't do it? wheres the nisskid!!

yeh i'd also like an answer to this, i don't think its connected to the ECU.

BUMP!! give me some offers guys, need this stuff gone!

dunk it and tie some string around it to keep one side out??

just clearing out my garage, any questions PM ME!!! Item: R34 GTR wing Condition: Good condition pretty sure its a copy, might need a respray for fussy person. Location: Melb SE suburbs Price: $350 Item: Buddy Club P1's 17x8 +32 pair Condition: average, paint is flaking in places and one has a fair bit of gutter rash, Tyre's are finished Location: Melb SE suburbs Price: $350 Item: Remapped and standard r32 ECU's Condition: the remapped one was done by CEF11E its to suit an rb20 with 25 turbo, fmic and exhaust, i had it on my rb20 with stock turbo and it ran well just a little rich. Location: Melb SE suburbs Price: $200 for the remapped ecu $150 for the standard ecu Item: rb20 gearboxes Condition: got 2 of these one has a twisted output shaft and the other has a noisy bearing but it shifts great, suit recondition. Location: Melb SE suburbs Price: $50 each

you can test it yourself, boil some water and drop it in see if it opens, works best if you have some type of thermometer to check the water temp.. if it test's fine maybe you installed it wrong, maybe too much gasket glue or something....

normal temp should be between 76-82 and up to 90 when pushing personally i cut it off at 95 so 110 is wayyyyy too hot!! the dash gauge is crap and unreliable. plently of people use the rb30 pumps with success, maybe see if you can tighten up the bolts, ideally it should be removed and resealed. or buy the pump that fits

agreed, i noticed a similar "lazy" feeling with mine off i couldn't hit corners at the same pace without the assist, the confidence was just not there. has anyone tried these alloy steering spacer things that replace the stock rubber item?

through the gearstick is the best way usually i leave the filler open and stop pouring when it comes out, a few boxes i haven't been able to open the filler either and i just put 2.5L in or about 3.5 for a 25 box

yeh sorry guys i did find the solution it was a dud ECU, as far as that plug goes i just used a resistor trick for the knock sensors as the engine doesn't have any installed... i might put them in one day if i can be bothered but im not sure if ill have to remove the plenum to get access..