LTHLRB

That's the one. Any more info or pics ?

JMS had a shit hot twin turbo rb25 at the nationals last week that ran into the 11s with a 2.5 60 footer at 140odd mph. Laggy but has power

Always lower. BUT if the car has huge amounts of power it will still post up a good mph. as stated 60 footers show how good a car hooks up and well the driver can drive the thing out of the hole. For example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_adV15DzTo

60 footers are only an indication on how well your car hooks up and leaves the hole. Doesnt have anything to do with power.

Pm sent

So modifications would need to be made to suit the application. Like baffled sumps and what not. Always room for improvement. If those mods were made prior to raping the car on the track would the stock internals last?

Thats pretty much how my car was tuned prior going to initial d racing. Too many people out there looking to make quick dough and not actually do a good job.

But in saying that backyard builds vs workshop builds. There is only one way to put together a bottom end. The correct way. Regardless if its a glamorous workshop with tip top race cars or somebody in a shed such as d'anallo performance who has a rb25 30 running into the 8s. Quality workmanship is quality workmanship. My theory on a workshop is. If you're going to open a workshop you should know how to build an engine properly as a minimum. You learn how to do that in your 4th year of trade school. Iv had bad experiences with a certain shop that did an abortion of a job on my car. I basically redid all their work to how I wanted it and its yet to fail me (still using a stock bottom end). And all that work was done off a hoist in a small garage. I do agree with you on experience. Trial and error plays a big part when pushing the limits.

I still don't understand why "professionals" can't do the job that they're payed for correctly. We as customers pay the 100% price yet we dont get 100% effort or quality. Same goes with "tuners" what irritates me is some workshops won't put as much effort or care in a tune if you built it elsewhere and braught it for a tune yet they will go to the moon and back when you have them build you an overpriced engine. Work should be done 100% regardless of where the car came from.

Rb25 dyno thread and results at the top is where it's at. Plenty of info shared there

Spot in angryrb. Seems to be less and less of the ocd high quality workshops getting around. Thats why I choose to do everything myself. Then if it fails nobody else is to blame but me then I can go one better next time round. And it seems logical to do my own work as I'm a mechanic by trade.

Spend less time dealing with workshop lies and empty promises and more time tearing it up. On another note. If the stock quality is so awesome why are so many rb 26s failing due to oil starvation? Or any engine for that matter? Not saying its poor quality. But saying a built engine with all the trimmings is/can be a lot better.

Can't go wrong with that. Much less stuffing around than going to and from workshop/machine shop and getting parts from here and there and most likely at the end of the day wishing you went crate motor.

I know this. I personally build engines in house for skoda. It isn't really that complicated. Gotta have the right gaps clearances and torque specs and you're good as gold. Any filter spinner can build an engine as its just nuts n bolts. Building it correctly is a different story. Too many cowboys try to be these big workshop heros and put together rubbish and that's when you have engine failures. At the end of the day, regardless of how good its built, if its tuned poorly and maintenance isn't on the owners to do list it wont last.As rob from rips says "head gasket down its just a pump head gasket up is where you make your power" Also you never hear of motorsport teams crapping engines but you'll definitely see engines go out on the field. When cars are driven to the extreme it isnt a case of IF but moreso WHEN. Mark webber knows this all too well.

Ahh right. But you can put the best of the best. If its built by a monkey you'll get bananas. Build quality is the key.

Rolls: so umm... why don't all the top motorsport teams use factory built engines? And you do know that after market rods and pistons are better than stock yes? Also aftermarket rings and head gaskets and head and main studs and rod bolts are better than stock yes? You're a troll aren't you? (All the above is debatable. Apart from rolls trollness)

Snail*

A 35r on the street is powerful but you will only have a 2, 000 to 3,000rpm useable power band. Honestly I think a 3076/ 3076x is perfect for power and response on the street. Big power figures with f all power band is overrated.

I guess moping around and being lazy won't get me results lol. Stay tuned

Funny thing is I'm the one doing all the work. Just a matter of putting in the effort after working all day on shitbox cars (skoda). Sometimes all you wana do is sit on the couch and not move lol. Will be tuned within the month though

Sick effort. Mines close to getting on the rollers. Patience is running thin though

another +1 for a 2nd hand motor. did the same thing with my 33 and its been going for almost 6yrs and im just about to put more power through it. bang for buck

+1 for tomei pump. Has been working prefect in my r33 for years and making 300rwkw with a 11.1 afr. Recommend that or a Bosch 023.

Hey mate. Still got it?

I like to run "track offset" wheels at all time street and drift. 17 x 9 +22 up front and same for the rear but with 30mm spacers. Im getting my rears widened another inch on the outer hoop. You don't need to run spastic offset wheels up front or rear. Just a nice offset wheel with good width so it clears everything up front when on full lock. I run potenza re002 235/45 up front and kumho ecsta rear 235/45. They don't delaminate and wear all the way down nicely. Thats with 300kw at the wheels too. I haven't done grip driving yet so I can't say what rubber I run. But I like to keep it as street as possible