LTHLRB

Howdy, i have a power fc djetro for a s15 sr20det. all is well and good apart from one thing, i cannot read japanese and the whole manual is in jap! is there a diagram on pin outs for the IAT wiring around anywhere? any help appreciated

twin or triple plate at a minimum

seems like an intermittent problem, is the earth point from the battery on properly and is the point clean? is the fuel pump earth hard wired? if you can get your hands on a fuel pressure tester then having a look at that would be an ace idea. If its spluttering and you have good coils, good plugs n fuel, it may be fuel pump related but its hard to point at that (e-diagnosis) hows the CAS set? it could be going into Rich n Retard. Many factors

the engine light in my r33 flickers at times when im pushing past the 7,000rpm mainly in 3rd n 4th. Knock doesnt register any higher or go up when the light flashes, no engine damage or failures have happened and i have more than enough fuel and headroom with my setup. I've sort of learnt to ignore it and focus on knock readings

Plumb back or atmo bov?

where abouts in thomastown was this last seen? im from the hood myself and am familiar with alot of jap cars in the area.

tru track in south melb or if you know what you're doing fit them youself and have a search on here for specs or even speak to some people in the know, give specs to your local alignment joint with half a brain and get it done for less than any other joint will charge.

Shift kits are just kits that put higher amounts of pressure through your valve body making the vehicle shift more "positive" so to speak. The shifting will be harsh when cruising, kind of like a kick in the pants and it might even let off a little churp. Your stall converter size should be coming in when your power comes in, so lets say your cars power band is from 3 - 7500. Your converter would need to be 2800 - 3200 or thereabouts. It would still be streetable, but will chew more juice because of a stall converter. You are still able to drive the car in D unless you have a semi manualised or a fully manualised valve body, then you'll need to manually shift from 1 2 3 D or whatever pattern your car has. As Ben stated, a decent sized trans cooler is a MUST when it comes to stall converters and stuff.

have you got an aftermarket bov? it sounds like a vac leak somewhere if your iac valve was shagged it wouldnt idle and just hunt flat out. once you back off the car will just die on the spot.

put a pic of your spark plugs up. close up to the electrode

if it works, it works

wouldnt have been that hard if you didnt stitch it and cut it around where u want to fit. im in the process of doing that now. but only 1 side as its caved in on my r33. not a hard task, just time consuming

alternator voltage output on most cars is 13.8 to 14.1v or thereabouts. any less than that (which it most likely is) its going to be an alternator. Any higher it will most likely be the alternator regulator. easy as to test, get yourself a multimeter, test the back of the alternator where the power cable bolts onto.

http://proflow.com.au/catalog/6191 2ltr tank http://proflow.com.au/catalog/6192 0.5ltr tank or you could go for japanese brands for overflow tanks or get something custom made. Both from VPW in epping or could be purchased online

might also be IAC valve (idle air control) could be sticking due to carbon build up, take it off and clean it then refit. see how you go from there. also check for vacuum leaks as stated

what was the engine temp at? what fuel was being used at the temp? what was the outside air temps? if its losing power consistently then thats a problem. are you using the stock ecu?

No probs Amir. Anytime

Id go 2 up on each. 10/8kg or even 8/8. Must use thick whiteline swaybars also. 24mm from memory. With that setup id use 255 semi slicks all round also.

I dont doubt the neo pushing that much for a second. But they only last so long. Id you're building a motor youd be crazy not to go a metal gasket. Its definitely under torqued.

yeah mate, thats a drift kind of setup with those spring rates, but its a good combo if you have a street car that likes to go sideways from time to time... a full on circuit car would have heavier spring rates but then it becomes too much on the street if you like to live a life of luxury

should have gone MLS head gasket before you put it together. the factory head gasket can only handle so much

not so much aussie land.. moreso melbourne/victoria

ISC coilovers are a good bang for buck set. you can also choose your own spring rates when ordering. i have 8/6kg springs in the r33 and its a pretty sweet ride considering how the car goes full noise on the race track, street driving isnt harsh at all

leave maf in engine bay wired up but not connected... the less knowledgeable would be none the wiser iv come across police/tmu that have picked out a z32 afm and apexi power fc. so pretty much you cant get away with it.

your exhaust wont be causing issues with your afr's. Get some CRC contact spray and afm spray. clean your plug and pins for the afm and clean inside the afm with the afm cleaner spray. Give that a shot first before anything