Dose Pipe Sutututu

Damn, it's at night. Should do a morning Royal National Park Sunday cruise one day. I'll take the shit box out and take my son for a drive. He likes hearing dose, suuuututuuturuuuututu lol.

I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.

Super keen on the dyno results, make sure to post up ECU logs with RPM vs. MAP vs. ignition timing (if you want to disclose that).

That's great news Skyline scene is a bit odd (yes I've been following that particular Facebook page), and most of the owners are young boys with no money.

Weird looking RB, but looks great. Can't wait to see the Ver. 23 of the car.

Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.

@GTSBoy you're not wrong 🥲 I'm stuck in a shit box Nissan for life, gone way too far down that rabbit hole.

GT-R owners love drag racing, here's a S58 stock motor, stock turbos doing a 8.9s https://www.instagram.com/p/DBq0s10pkx5/

Most people that build big powered RB, are always building big powered RBs 🥲

A stand alone boost controller will not give you the control you need, unlike a modern ECU. Your boost will always naturally target the wastegate's opening pressure first, your controller then will allow you to add more boost as required.

You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/ You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70

You can manipulate the torque delivery by ramping in boost gently, then throwing it all in after peak torque to keep the torque flat. It's nothing magical.

Yes, with a modern ECU and a capable tuner.

That's all dependant on your boost strategy and your tuning abilities (or your tuner's abilities).

Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this (Not my photos, just Google)

You need the bottom spacers, to make it a 3/4 height injector. https://www.efihardware.com/products/3040/injector-adapter-lower-for-extended-nose-injectors And you'll need to buy the right injector bosses, these "might" fit. You'll need to measure it up. https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/

Great info @tidi0x Will definitely be handy for others and maybe me if I decide to keep the shit box H pattern.

here are 2x options to consider: https://www.selby.com.au/price-promise/tonewinner-sw-d6000-subwoofer.html https://www.apollohifi.com.au/svs-pb-3000-ported-subwoofer-black-ash-pre-order.html I'm waiting for a good BF/CM sale and will pull the trigger on a new sub, I do like the SVS PB-3000 (13") but you could nearly buy 2x Tonewinner D6000s (15")

Got bored took photos of the sub I made. Original enclosure had 2x 10" Peerless drivers in an Isobaric configuration. Although sounding nice, wasn't good for movies so I took both drivers out and sold them and replaced it with a single Dayton 10" HF series driver. The front baffled needed to be enlarged to fit the driver (something I didn't account for lol). Then of course the original 150W RMS Jaycar plate amps wasn't up to scratch and the driver would clip/bottom out, so an O-Audio 500W RMS plate amp was fitted. A year later, got bored and wanted more output, used WinISD and calculated I would get about -3dB roll of at about 21Hz with a 4" port and I think about 30cm long or so. Has been like that for over a decade, until a few months ago the amp would randomly hum as though I've taken out the RCA out and earth it against the chassis of the amp. Tested with another sub (Focal Dome, now sold) and RCA nor receiver were the issues. Concluded plate amp is fked. Took the grill off for a photo.

Might as well just upgrade to a Tonewinner D6000... I think if it goes down to $1.5 to $1.6k I'm going to do it... Will work out which part of the couch I'm allowed to sleep on once I'm banned from the bedroom. Same, however technology changes and these days those once amazing subs are just mediocre compared to a SVS, Velodyne and now (apparently) Tonewinner. They're always closed, treble performance drops and I notice the speakers fall off axis quite easily. Compromise right? I ran the room calibration with the door closed etc. and you could tell the room EQ correction slapped on more mid and treble. With Yamaha's YPAO, you can't see what has been applied to the EQ with correction applied, where as the older Audessey it showed you the post correction EQ.

And these are the fronts I'm using, they don't look like much but performer better than the previous Tannoy MX3 and the Wharfdale Modus 5.

You can see the speakers laid flat (instead of sitting upright). Apparently sound travels a bit better through this mesh than others, but I did have to max out the treble to nearly make them sound like prior when they were on stands. I also made the cabinet shelves taller, to accommodate a future Emotiva power amp for imaginary nice floor standing speakers I don't have at the moment lol. And yes, most of the mesh has been pushed it and all warped.

Surprisingly the D6000 is only $1999, I'm waiting for the BF/CM sales, and hoping to get one cheaper. D4000 is well priced, still outperforms the 13" SVS PB-3000 and is like 1/2 the price at $1699 RRP. I do watch a fair amount of movies, and listen to EDM, jazz, symphonies, etc. so the lower notes from a subwoofer are always appreciated. The front 8" stage, just doesn't provide you with lively feeling, even though they are pretty bassy for a pair of large bookshelves. Then again, these days it's just playing Wiggles, Blippi and Ms Rachel, another reason the 3m wide cabinet exists, to hide all the audio gear behind it. They used to sit on a nice pair of stands, but as you know, they make good baby traps too.

-6dB at 22Hz isn't that great, watch the data from the D6000 from REW

I'll snap up some photos when I'm back home, in the office today meeting my "in the office" quota. Have 2x Teams calls scheduled in, office culture they reckon. I've never owned a proper off the shelf sub, I've always made or modified broken ones with Jaycar plate amps and/or car subwoofer drivers. The current (and broken) subwoofer has a proper home driver in it, Dayton driver, thos one https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/118/rss265hf-4-10-reference-hf-subwoofer-4-ohm FS of 25Hz, which is low but not low enough. Yeah, I think they were brought out to the market to compete with SVS. I would love a SVS PB-3000 but they're not cheap, especially after their price hike. From reviews online, it does look like the Tonewinner D6000 would destroy and with good amount of money saved too.