Dose Pipe Sutututu

Looks good but wow the price tag

Kind of, but you'll cry at the price. https://pure-pf.com/product/maxxecu-pwm-module/ Another option is using a PDM and doubling up the outputs. Another another option is using a Volvo Fan Relay (PWM, fly back diode, heatsink all in one) Another another another option (I might do this one day, also has a fly back diode, built in heat sink, will happily run at 5kHz) is the Dorman 902-310

Very gregged up, hope the New FY goes well.

PWM too, less melty

I'll PM you

Better built than a Falcon Heavy Space X rocket.

would a NPC one work? https://www.npcperformance.com.au/product/lightweight-billet-steel-flywheel-rnf03/ and here's their catalogue: https://www.npcperformance.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/NPC-Performance-Flywheel-Catalogue-2023-Full-List-WEBSITE.pdf (I am not affiliated, even though I keep recommending their shit lol... I am going to buy a Xtreme clutch soon)

5 minute job, at a NRMA branch. Not sure how easy it is in NZ for @R3N3

Cost of living crisis is real, bought Aeroflow fittings to run the water return from the turbo hardlines I made, back to the thermostat. May regret buying Aeroflow, as the rest of the car is Speedflow 🥲

odd thing for a turbo manufacturer to say, the proof if there, twin scroll always performs better, sure non twin scroll and twin scroll you'll end up at the same overall peak power, however a street car/track car needs a wide powerband unlike a drag car. In terms of intercooler, a good one goes a long way. For reference (I've posted it somewhere here the data) I had an older HDi Core (pre dates the GT2 style cores, they seem decent!) and my runs were peaking over 60 degrees Celsius, went to a Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm core and temps dropped down to the mid 30s. Similar ambient temp, similar motor build, same turbo setup, same exhaust system, mostly same IC pipework.

DET shit on LHS, DE shit on RHS Simples, especially not running a heat exchanger or the OEM bleeder.

Pulled out this pile of shit, will be refreshed soon enough. Had coolant hit my face and I accidentally tasted it. It's sweet.

Imagine a single twin scroll turbo, boost hits at 4000 rpm and you'll make more power throughout the entire RPM range vs the twins. Convert to a single turbo, twin scroll setup. You're welcome.

It's more so I'm using the 1x piece line from HEL that goes from the body to the caliper. There's no middle block/mount like the HFM ones or the GKtech ones. There are certain angles/suspension compression where the line actually slightly contacts the ARB. Below of how mine sit (not my photo): How I want it:

@Kinkstaah HFM will have a spicy BF sale in November, might be a good time to load up on the adaptors, new lines, etc. Then may the best grinder win lol.

Yeah less mucking about grinding down the firewall, using brake line converters, etc. Just send it with an original BM57 and call it a day.

So after some Chat GPT (yeah I know lol..) it turns out that the R35 GT-R BMC conversion may not be suitable for our shit boxes as it splits the fluid 60:40 instead of 70:30. When looking at possibly doing the 370Z conversion, it seems it's quite similar to how the R35 GT-R booster & BMC mounts up, however after some additional digging the 370Z BMC bore is the same size as a R33/34 GT-R BM57 one. Brake Pressure Split: Nissan 370Z: The typical front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the 370Z is approximately 70:30. This is designed to handle the car’s weight distribution and performance characteristics, favoring the front brakes heavily due to weight transfer during braking. Nissan R33 GT-R: The front-to-rear brake pressure ratio for the R33 GT-R is also typically 70:30. However, this ratio is tuned for the GT-R's specific weight distribution and dynamic performance, considering its all-wheel-drive system and higher performance expectations. Despite having the same nominal 70:30 ratio, the actual distribution of braking force in practice can be different due to other factors like vehicle weight, ABS and EBD systems, and brake component sizes. Bore Sizes: The bore size of a brake master cylinder affects the hydraulic pressure generated within the braking system and can vary between different vehicles based on their braking requirements. Nissan 370Z: The brake master cylinder typically has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore. The secondary bore can vary slightly depending on specific trim levels and brake options, such as the Nismo version or those equipped with the Sport Package which features larger brakes. Nissan R33 GT-R: The brake master cylinder in the R33 GT-R generally has a 1-inch (25.4 mm) primary bore as well. Given the GT-R's high-performance context and advanced braking system, the bore size is designed to provide sufficient hydraulic pressure for its braking needs. Comparison: Brake Pressure Split: While both vehicles use a similar 70:30 ratio in the brake master cylinder design, the actual operational distribution might differ slightly due to differences in brake system components, vehicle dynamics, and tuning for each model. Bore Sizes: Both the 370Z and R33 GT-R use a master cylinder with a primary bore size of around 1 inch (25.4 mm). This similarity helps in providing robust hydraulic pressure for effective braking. Additional Considerations: Braking System Design: The overall brake system, including calipers, rotors, and the master cylinder, is designed to work as an integrated unit. Even with similar bore sizes and pressure splits, the performance and feel of the brakes can differ due to variations in brake pad composition, rotor size, and ABS tuning. ABS and EBD: Both vehicles are equipped with Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS) and Electronic Brake-force Distribution (EBD), which further modulate and optimize braking force between the front and rear wheels dynamically, depending on driving conditions and brake demand. In essence, while the 370Z and R33 GT-R have some similarities in their brake master cylinder specifications, they are tuned to meet the specific performance and handling characteristics of each vehicle. TL;DR, just use a R33 BM57 and call it a day.

I did have a squiz but haven't come across anyone adapting it to a shit box Skyline.

Will be done when I do the brakes 😊 Thinking a R35 BMC.

100% This was also considered however the whole 370Z caliper came up at a good price and I couldn't suppress my temptations to buy it and take me further and further away from owning a factory fast car in the future. Nissans addiction is worse than a meth addiction.

That may or may not be me that replied 😅

Hmmm yeah nah 😅 Would swap for a F80 M3 Competition

Could you have not cut off the OEM flange, weld on a larger flange for DBW?

Agree! I still believe I have the quietest 400kW+ R33 in Australia.

I'm not going to argue with you. OP just wanted to replaced his stock manifold with another one for his stock turbo. Besides wasting money, he will achieve nothing besides added lag and most likely 0 additional power.