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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Buying these cars requires a type of mindset, at times I think buying any JDM requires some form of slight mental retardation. I'll use myself as an example, buys a $5k R33, spends over $70k on it (I have a full spreadsheet of every part/machining/fab work that has been done/bought for the car. That list does not include anything maintenance related and the endless workshop hours, dyno hire, etc.) over the past 9.5 years. There are days I regret it and wish I bought a M3, there are days I marvel at the beauty of the heap of shit.
  2. I believe Brett appreciates you not sending him sex toys.
  3. @r32-25t might wanna repost that photo without your full name, address, phone number visible
  4. This I have to agree too, also their sausages are better. Went to their beer festival a few years ago in Berlin, that was great fun! RSA? yeah nah, here's a pint and a landyard so you don't drop your beer.
  5. Borrow a CAS and see if that is the issue, the OEM optical CAS (although great in theory) is actually flawed by the fact it is high resolution and with age fails to read properly. This is why many drop to a 24 - 1 cam trigger setup (myself included) OR a crank/cam trigger setup.
  6. If you can afford a GT-R you can afford not to use eBay turbos / an eBay turbo. Convert to a single turbo, twin are aids. Also your injectors are already too small, just straight out get Bosch 1650cc (they're actually 1480 but everyone calls them 1650, Part No. 0280158333).
  7. a bit hard when I can't drive it (car doesn't work LOL)
  8. standard Skyline ownership, mine spends more time on tow trucks, hoists and jackstands than at the track or streets. I pay registration and drive it like 4 weeks a year and the rest is spent as a garage ornament or parked at paid private parking on a hoist at a workshop LOL
  9. Sounds like the one of cam sprockets is off by 1x tooth and yes the OEM voltage drop resistor will torch fuel pumps. Constant power or PWM is the only way.
  10. Yeah you'll need to port out the wastegate hole and run a larger flap (if possible), alternative is to just weld up the wastegate port and run a gate off the stock manifold (don't delete the stock divider).
  11. It's 2021 lol... please do not install a PowerFC, also you'll still need the AFM with the PowerFC and the way you've set everything up, a PowerFC will still give you you idle and stalling issues. Just get a Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-in used if you can, great value and provides all the features you would need. If you have money and decide that one day you'll go tits out then get a better ECU that supports DBW, strain gauge input, etc.
  12. Many issues there, some I can see: Stock ECU AFM & pod filter Reversion from intake pipe Stock BOV deleted & using a AFM Easiest fix, throw the stock ECU and AFM into the bin, install a proper speed density ECU.
  13. New day, new tow truck adventure 😂 Off to (more) fab work, at the same time I thought why not take out the subframe and weld in extra plates for strength and replace all the bushes (again) since they're all McFked. This time round, I'm not using Superpro polyurethane diff bushes and going with harden rubber. I don't think the polyurethane stuff is up to the abuse I throw at it. They've all deformed, some cracked and cause the diff to move around now. As for the subframe bushes, I'm just replacing them with the GKTech harden rubber ones (currently Hard Race ones) as it sits the subframe a bit higher, meaning I will have ever slightly more closer to OEM geometry. I need all the grip I can get here 😊
  14. Then the next question, can you even bridge channels with that amp? There are no physical markings saying you can bridge these channels. Honestly, just buy that Clarion amp I posted up above. Cheaper than a car catching on fire.
  15. Also with the cost of car audio dropping exponentially, you'll be silly not to run a small footprint marine amp. Here's a fantastic one for the price. The below amp would destroy what you have there in terms of power delivery, SQ, size, heat manage, etc. https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.au/clarion-xc2410-400w-micro-size-4-3-2-channel-class-d-marine-amplifier/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_fiLBhDOARIsAF4khR3wzCm4oVysGSSApkJvO81oVKIuGFZln-lEvBhk6526rHRAXp3pV8caAts8EALw_wcB
  16. The amp is probably going into protection mode with the outputs bridged like that. That's not how you bridge channels together. They do not act like AA batteries. Also using that kind of wiring for power will cause more issues.
  17. Something like this will get them out, I did the same on my own shit box - albeit it was the HICAS ball joint but same same.
  18. Core will have a plate, post up ALL the info on that plate here. If there's no plate, potential an eBay turbo and/or a Hypergear turbo as well. The latter isn't so bad, they're decent, however I've rarely seen Tao use those rear housings. Also that turbo is clocked way too much, I suspect you might have a bit of smoke on boost - even looking at the limited photos supplied you can see oil mist all over the power steering reservoir and surround areas.
  19. Hey All, Just clearing the Dose Pipe shed, since I need the space 😁 R33 PWR Radiator (has slight damage) Condenser rubbed on it and leaked. Has been JB welded, even drove home from Wakefield then the motor seized from oiling issues during the day lolololol. Suitable for repair OR someone needing a good core to cut down and make smaller radiators. These cores are super efficient! R33 RB25DET stock balancer, near new! Off my previous built motor, probably hasn't seen more than 5000km before the motor exploded. RB2xDE/T Gates Timing Belt, near new! Off my previous built motor, probably hasn't seen more than 5000km before the motor exploded. R33/R34 RB25DET engine fan No cut fins, has usual cracks. R33 RB25DE/T accelerator cable & pedal Decent condition, removed to go DBW Location: Panania, NSW 2213. Happy to drop off to you if you're nearby.
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