Dose Pipe Sutututu

My point is more so focused on the division between cylinders 1 to 3 vs 4 to 6. Any low mount "bolt on" aftermarket manifold utilises an open T3 collector which has crap all scavenging effects. Sure it might allow you to slap in more timing up top to make a little more but you'll lose all the down low performance. Even Tao from @hyper-gear has experienced the same when modifying the stock manifold. He has experienced added lag by cutting out the divider inside vs. leaving it alone. Twin scroll works, even if the effort is focused primarily on the manifold and an open scroll turbine housing. Please don't confuse me with a V8 NA or Americans that thinks you need back pressure in a 4 stroke motor.

Probably a bit too much for my liking, like it would be enough to get the car to cross up of you were to over cook and entry (happened T2 a couple of times).

This is why I can't afford a Porsche 911 or a new M3. Farken. Will hopefully provide me with a bit more braking capacity at SMSP. Going from a 324mm to a 354mm rotor will also help dissipate heaps of heat. Not mention, the rears will also be upgraded to balance the brake bias. Believe it or not, with just only front Brembos and the rear OEM Sumitomo, I can actually feel the brake bias towards the back, hence trail braking into turns I could feel the rear end being unsettled. Hopefully if my broscience serves me correctly, I should resolve the brake bias by upgrading both front and rear calipers.

Closer to getting the shit box back on the road. That long hose, took 2 months to acquire. However the rest were all already to go same week I ordered them. For those playing at home, that long hose is for a RB25DE N/A motor, as they don't run a water/oil heat exchanger, the hoses underneath the plenum are much more elegant and not a maze of shit.

Just need to weld it in and done

You can hide it by adapting this Aussie made kit: https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwezeKMschT/?igsh=dzNyaGV6NXZuYTJh

Squealing is aids. Street cars, weekend track cars are not allowed to squeal.

It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.

It's great for shelf stable groceries and home stuff. Cheaper than Woolies/Coles, I love it. Need shit paper? Next day delivery, need stuff to cook with? Next day delivery.

It shouldn't swell like that, (just looked it up) it should say SAE J30R10

Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.

Out of curiosity, does your car have ABS? *** Ignore, you've posted it a non ABS BMC

You're onto something here... Maybe that's his plan all along, he's just pretending to leave it stock then nek minnit, LS Bogan MX5

I reckon give him a few months, LSX swap would be good

wao, this page is good https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nab/

LS swap yeah good.

Just for clarity, no adaptors are required for the front conversion. 350Z Brembos & rotors fit on S13/14/15 and R32/33 (GTS-t/R) by just drilling the bolt hole to 14mm (and using R34 GT-t/R caliper bolts as the 350Z ones are too long). R34 GT-t/GT-R will be full bolt on as they're already 14mm (however still requiring R34 GT-t/R caliper bolts).

And before you get it running you really need a Bosch Motorsport ABS

This! Hence I always start off with user requirements in any kind of post recommending anything. If the car was doing endurance racing, no fking way the Brembos would be sufficient. But for a street car, casual SMSP squirt, 5 lap Wakefield Park warrior, it's more than enough.

Really comes down to user requirements, I have found my 324mm 350Z Brembo front set up more than sufficient for track use, especially for Wakefield Park with good brake pads. At Sydney Motorsport Park the GP Circuit can be a bit taxing on the braking system, I find by the 3rd hot lap there's rapid degradation in braking performance but at that point non semi slick tyres are about to give up anyway. And yes, the brakes are effective, slowing me down from 230km/h+ each time going into turn 1. Street use, it's more than enough for street activities. Most of the time people complain their brakes aren't sufficient, it's due to incorrect bleeding, poor choice of friction material, or faulty master cylinders.

Helical front diff, refresh the rear mechanical if needed and enjoy life. Save that money for a twin scroll, single turbo setup and modernisation of the car such as DBW, cruise control via DBW, canbus keypad etc.

Injector pressure differential set, base pressure set, and let the ECU/engine protection do the work. I'm assuming the ballers with MoTecs could even do closed loop fuel pump duty cycle to maintain pressure, where as the commoners on Haltechs need to just stick with a static table and engine protection to kill off torque when fuel pressure drops off

Zomg... Why... It's like a car designed for middle aged men that once had proper fast cars.

What's your intended usage for the car? GT-Rs already have a mechanical LSD at the back, provided the clutch packs are still in good condition, it should delivery 50/50 torque split between LHS & RHS rear wheels. Wouldn't hurt to put in a helical front diff, however would avoid a clutch pack front if you want to keep it streetable.

Correct, I used to run 1x SSR for both pumps, but the inner OCD in me wanted 1x SSR per pump, so here we are Flyback diodes built into the harness Here's my DC table