Dose Pipe Sutututu

Motor 1 could be a S15 motor Motor 2 could be a S13 motor both might be the same, but in reality they're not

Sorry my response wasn't detailed enough - hence the confusion. if both were to make 500nm at 6500 with VCT on of VCT off you would assume the motor making 500nm with VCT on would have much greater cylinder pressures. If VCT were to be turned off for motor making 500nm with VCT on, you'll get a reduced amount of torque also a reduced amount of cylinder pressure. Motor with VCT off making 500nm, if VCT were to be turned on, you would "assume" that motor would make even more torque, i.e. 500nm+ but now with added cylinder pressure.

LOL... Do you need an Asian to show you how to do a mad skid? I don't see the video of your skid in this thread 😂

but many do it for IG likes

Should be going back to 0 degree advance as soon as you're coming onto boost, keeping it on after that is what is causing the issue. When I tunes SR20s, I do exactly that, use VCT to only get the turbo to come on, and turn it off quick smart. I've seen plenty of tunes from "workshops" that keep VCT into 6 to 7k RPM, sure you're making much more torque, but can't imagine what cylinder pressures are like.

I love PWM pumps, no need to stage them and with staging pumps you see a momentary spike in fuel pressure as the 2nd one comes on. On logs it shows a potential issue but in real world driving you won't notice anything. So practically staging is completely fine, just in theory it isn't so. DYOR lol.

I run a single SSR for two Wallahbro 450L pumps https://www.jaycar.com.au/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086 They are rebranded Crydom ones Jaycar sells here in Australia. @BK funnily enough, if you don't use them for PWM (and only as an on/off relay) they stay pretty cold, but as soon as you start PWM boy do they heat up. I run the exact heatsink on my setup to keep it cool.

I can't recommend on size as at those power levels I have no experience with, but the only thing I can say is keep it divided/twin scroll.. You'll need all the help you can get to spool the karnt.

just go full retard (excuse the use of the word retard in 2021, but it's only appropriate word to use here) and use a solid state relay instead.

I'm sure you'll hear more when your Subaru Impreza is breaking, generally their head gaskets break before anything else. Unless you mean braking?

Skids video not loading brah

Relocate boost source to post intercooler, pre throttle body. Add more duty cycle up top.

Easiest fix, install a new aftermarket ECU with wideband O2 input. Install a wideband O2, and tune it.

This actually won't increase "driveability", you'll end up with a bit more lag. Also, 260 Poncams don't actually brap or anything like that. You're better off with 264/272 Kelfords for brap.

Bandaid solution, tap your pressure source after the intercooler for your EBC/boost solenoid. This will work the turbo a bit harder but will provide you with a bit more boost stability. Also return flows suck, I can guarantee you as soon as you replace that with a proper FMIC setup, with a decent core you'll instantly make more power.

Sure stayed NA for a long time.

I think if Nissan implemented the twins a little bit better, i.e. individual ICs, individual plenums per turbo then in theory they would perform decent. But two cocks one hole generally doesn't sound like efficiency. No one outside of that one crazy dude in Japan that @Piggaz pointed out has ever done the full retard (not half retard) twin approach.

It's funny you see all the RB26 try super hard to stick to twins but in the end they just give up and go single sex spec. In the 2JZ world, most just go single from the get go and don't bother stuffing around with twin aids.

Car was mainly used for track, skid pan and some street duties, however since the old motor (built myself, bar the rotating assembly) let go I decided to transform the car into more of a street car and make it something fun for roll racing, maybe drags, Powercruise and the odd skid pan/track day. I want it to all come in by 4200~4400RPM and spin it to 9000rpm, delivering a wide, usable, fun powerband. Pretty run of the mill setup, RB25 NEO with forged pistons/rods, ARP hardware, ACL bearings, etc. I did have Tomei Poncams in there, but they snapped and took the motor out too (cracked a block lol). So now Kelford 264/272 are going in, oversized exhaust valves, Plazmaman intake manifold/plenum and converting to DBW. Will still use the same Garrett GTX Gen 2 3576 with the 1.01 divided rear housing though, on a Sinco twinscroll manifold merged into a single 50mm Gen V Turbosmart gate. Should be fun for sure, but let's see how we go. I believe 500kW on a hub dyno is possible. Been talking to Alex at Birrong Automotive and a few things have popped up here and there. What started off as a simple refresh, has now turned into something stupid. Oh yeah, you probably didn't noticed, but the car got a make over LOL. Also sorry @khezz for the high jack lol... I say go Precision, but run an Oil Pressure Regulator and an inline oil filter.

500kW+ at the wheels, might try drag racing and roll racing so I break less things According to this exaggerated chart by Garrett, we could "assume" it is possible, given we've seen the Gen 1 GTX3582 do close to those numbers in a real world scenario. Nah, you're cool, you actually tune cars so respect what you say. It's when internet mechanics or internet faux tuners start pushing their agenda on others is when it's not cool, especially when they've never tuned a single thing.

I will at first, to see if I can get what I want out of it.. I have a suspicion I "might" get there but all the SAU internet mechanic/tuner experts don't think I will get there. If not, then hello Precision lol.

Yep... I might too

And also change Turbo's to Turbos.

and 0 times on the track. At least I gave it a go, thrash the shit out of it at a few events and killed it. Now it's going to a proper shop to be built. Anyhow, ignore list you go.

At least I drive mine, unlike your hoist queen.