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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. In terms of base maps, Haltech ones are the best by far. The ignition table for VCT motors are nearly the same as the OEM one (vacuum area -> atmospheric). Provided the AFRs are safe and fuelling is good, I would not hesitate taking the base map onto a track with a near stock turbo. Disclaimer: I pretend to know what I'm doing, and have only blown up two of my own motors and noone else's motor I've tuned in the past.
  2. My manifold is ceramic coated by them, can't say my engine bay is any cooler. If the manifold ever comes off, I'll go down the real thermo shield/wrap thing.
  3. More so heat management so you don't melt stuff around the turbo, especially if you decide to hit the track.
  4. full send the cnut, do this fark the wrapping and/or stick on siet. These guys are the ones to go to: https://www.realthermo.com.au/
  5. Just had a look, they don't. Fuelling on the base map is purely alpha-N, and the ignition table is MAP. Remember it's just a base map to get the car moving
  6. Means something is not set up right, tune/calibration related.
  7. It's not bad, it's just not flexible. And say if you have any leaks between the MAF and plenum, well then your load axis goes out the window. Here's a real world scenario, I blew off an intercooler hose last track day, as the clamp decided to Bluetooth itself somewhere. Still continued to do 2 laps and drive it to the pub for a couple of beers then home. Good luck doing that with a MAF setup
  8. Not really, I think of you search stuff you'll most likely end up on @R3N3's build thread or mine lol. Better off using Google to search SAU, the built in forum search isn't as sophisticated as Google's search.
  9. I'll send you screen shots tomorrow when I'm on the laptop 😊
  10. We are literally just kids stuck in an adult's body with bills and mortgages to pay 🥲
  11. If you need to refinance your mortgage and reset the loan terms back to 30 years and cash out on your equity for "investment" purposes *cough* car parts, I can help 😊
  12. Hopefully will last another 30 years
  13. You're making 27psi by 4200rpm, savage! Meanwhile I'm making 14psi lol. Very fun street setup, I bet the tyres want to turn to butter each time you cycle through the gears. I hope you have a proper LSD at the back, i.e. not the factory centre. Proof twin scroll is worth the effort/cost.
  14. The first part yes, the latter not really. If you do leave it at a shop, you'll need to make the changes via NSP. Happy to disclose how it's set up in private 😎
  15. You layer this with a MAP dimension, you don't just purely use alpha-N.
  16. Things have changed over the years since the PS2000 / Platinum Pro days. When Andy from Adaptronic took over the technical department of Haltech it went from meh to great (yes there were initially hiccups but so negligible in the scheme of things).
  17. The radium thing is sexual.
  18. You could do it underneath the car (I personally don't like this ideal). Mine is in the boot, but it's also on the pressure side from the main tank to the surge tank.
  19. A modern aftermarket ECU allows an immobiliser to be set up, albeit it's not specifically labelled as that, if you know what you're doing and add in enough conditions it acts as one.
  20. And why is that? For the average car enthusiast, Haltech's GUI is much more user friendly and easier to navigate. Link's GUI is not, not to mention when you try and set your tuning panel and move gauges/tables around the rendering goes all fked. Also, much easier to layer additional dimensions on a Haltech than a Link. Overall Link is a tiny bit more powerful in terms of motorsport features, less rigidity with the CANbus stuff however the GUI sucks.
  21. Have you given it any abuse? I.e. on the track (as in circuit not the silly roll race "track"), big RPM, big down shifts, etc. or any skid pans/drift days? That's the testing I would like to hear about.
  22. Put the FPR, after the fuel rail but before the Y split. If not, fuel will find the path of least resistance and bypass the FPR. Another option is, new 8AN feed, then use both the original feed/return as dual return (that's what I did).
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