Dose Pipe Sutututu

Awesome, gone now thanks! Also when we amalgamating the sub forums like when we last discussed?

You'll lose low down power, however I assume your car will be used for street runs in "Mexico", roll racing, 1/4 mile and not circuit so you'll always in the higher end of the rev range so you won't really notice the lack of low down power.

@PranK still getting this message although I've re-confirmed, re-entered my email, reset my password etc.

Is this for a street driven GT-R or will you be doing track as well? DBA luckily supplies the rotor to suit the OEM hats, so you don't need to replace the entire thing. However some people prefer to replace the lot 2x DBA52320BLKS (fully assembled, 2-piece, cross drilled/slotted, black hats) $1160 2x DBA52320BLKS (fully assembled, 2-piece, cross drilled/slotted, gold hats) $1160 2x DBA52320.1XS (rotor only, new nuts, cross drilled/slotted) $720 2x DBA52320.1S (rotor only, new nuts, slotted) $710 Pads for street use I would go Elig Sports($449), for mainly track some street I would go Elig Racing ($584) Hope that helps Freight should be about $35 for the lot.

Looks about right, diagram is giving me a headache lol. Essentially you want the boost source from your plenum (only applies to RB26 as throttles are post plenum).

Wiring fine, you'll need to slightly replumb

Honestly doesn't matter as majority of alarms are wired the same way, unless you've done it yourself and disabled non conventional circuits and hidden everything. At the end of the day it's just a deterrent device from opportunists.

Two cocks, one anus (male)

Just as long as your manifold design still keeps the pulses separated then you'll be still good. Still gains to be had on any I6 with a proper twin scroll manifold into a single scroll, this is evident with people grinding out the split in the RB25 manifolds because broscience tells them it "flows" more and losing heaps of low down.

If I binned a BMW motor, I would probably just set the car alight, call it quits in the car scene and then buy a hybrid Camry

Don't worry brah, I heart BMW too. On the fence between stripping the R33 shit box, adding a bit of cash and getting either a M2/3/4

Why hasn't anyone done the following to shut up the haters? twin turbos twin plenums twin ICs some form of 2x way dildo balance tube between plenums

Plural not possessive, and added to the facts.

I'll chime in, AR-1 tyres are good for 1~2 hot laps, but they don't progressively fade and just go from grip to shit in half a lap.. For the beginner however I would say they're a pretty good budget semi, I personally preferred Nitto NT01 over them and of course if budget can be stretched further Hankook Z221 would be preferred. Hit up Taleb Tyres or St George Tyres - they seem to have old stock (approx 2 year old) Z221 at a reasonable price.

Don't tempt me lol. I need to tear down my motor and see what's cooked and what's salvageable first.

ECUs have come a long way, there's no need to stress running higher than factory compression just as long as you have all your compensation strategies in place to pull timing and/or add fuel for (minimum): IAT Fuel temperature Fuel pressure Baro Water temp and you'll be fine.

Stock fuel pump belongs in the bin. You'll need a programmable ECU to use larger injectors so put aside some money for that too.

This...

Cometic head gaskets need the block & head to be perfectly flat to seal. So if you were just servicing the head, popping it onto a stock block it will leak. Tomei & Nitto head gaskets are somewhat more forgiving due to their design, you could say it has an o-ring around each cylinder. I've put 2 bar of boost into my motor with ARP2000 studs and it has seen nearly 100 laps of Wakefield Park before it died from oil starvation. No evident signs of coolant being pushed out or combustion gases in the coolant (black specks).

Challenge accepted, will try over 450kW using ARP2000. Side note, quoting power is HP is like measuring your penis length starting from your anus.

It's 2020, nearly 2021 and people are still wanting to buy HKS parts.

I think 3.9 is perfect in terms of ratios, you can find the crown & pinon from a S15 Turbo Automatic, as I believe the R34 GT-t diff is a touch longer than the normal non ABS R200 diff. With my limited research the C&P from a S15, R34 and R33 ABS "should" be interchangeable.

I would say a GTX3576R Gen 2 going past 450rwkW is a walk in the park with a well thought out head. Being a track car, I personally would want a wide power band and run a slightly taller diff to really stretch out the gears. Imagine going through fish hook at Wakefield in 2nd without lighting up the tyres and following that through. I know going around that in 3rd is just a bit sad in a high powered RB haha. The 10:1 would definitely give you a meaty power band so perhaps a GTX3582R in twin scroll dis dat could be a potent mix

I still don't get why more people don't run the GTX3576R and still prefer to get a GTX307R. Two real world results on this forum, two happy(ish) Skyline owners. One has a working car, one has just seized his motor from oil starvation on the track ?

If you're after low down, good spool, good mid range power then yes. Also depends how the car is used. If it's for drags, drifting or roll racing then perhaps it's not worth the investment but if it's used for circuit racing or driving through windy roads then 100% worth the extra money. 0.62 is too small.