Dose Pipe Sutututu

S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.

Whiteline are wrong.

Yep, somehow noone wants to fit anti roll bars these days to their cars lol.

Because it's rubbish, it got progressively better with each generation but still rubbish when you're pushing the car on the track. Some like it, most hate it.

Timing map only tells part of the story, I've seen a few cars where the CAS has been adjusted so you might see 12 at the ECU but at the motor you could be seeing 8 kind of thing. A S15 I converted from PowerFC to Nistune had just that, CAS was turned back to have less timing than the ignition map itself lol... "Choonered".

Shitbox Tiguan updates, got the APR OTS tune put back on (no charge for it to be removed/added back), didn't want to just come in just for that (not a fan of wasting people's time for nothing) so I purchased an APR dog bone insert. The boys at German Performance Garage said they would fit it for free too since they had 1x hoist free. Now that's service you don't normally get from most workshops. Anyhow, tune back on, snow grate pulled out, dog bone insert back in and not going to lie, a few smiles when I nailed it around the industrial area heading back onto the M7. Amayama also said 1 to 2.5 month wait for the RB25DE heater hose, yeah why not, car has been off the road for nearly 3, what's a other 2.5?

Totally agree here @groovezog! There's advice and there's advice, sometimes the latter doesn't take inconsideration use case, budget, time, effort etc. If we all wanted the ultimate track car with a dry sump, big displacement, we would just go to the nearest Porsche dealer and buy a 911 GT3 RS (that's if they even let you these days lol).

Looks good man, at this rate everyone will have running cars before me lol.

Looks a bit loose, follow the manual again, crank the motor by hand so everything is loaded up and lock in the tensioner.

At least you use your car as intended, those who have posted have not seen a race track in over a decade and/or their cars are still on hoists or jack stands 🥲😅😁

what a load of street takeover baloney, of course it's some US jargon or bs.

I don't understand how a heavier dyno will make less power, but anyhow let's take your first figure. You're making 397kW on normal 98RON. That's a pretty decent number, considering you'll be pretty knock limited with your fuel choice. Throw in E85, more timing, more RPM and you'll go over 500kW with ease

Lololol... Funny between brands reliability changes, yet it's technically the same parts.

Don't buy a Tiguan

Congratulations in advance wen baby?

sounds like you are super close, either the air gap is out OR the trigger arming voltage is too high. In NSP, just plot the trigger voltage vs. RPM vs. time and when you crank it you'll see what it reaching, adjust the trigger arming to suit

So I really need a 2nd working car at home, went down a few possible ways of fixing it Replace everything with the Boost Doc Kit, which would require me to degas the A/C, rip out the HVAC system, install new fitting, re-install and re-gas. This requires max effort (need to take off plenum, thermostat housing, HVAC, etc.) and cost the most. About $1.2k (kit, ac degas/regas, making new lines for turbo water return) Delete the hardline that runs underneath the plenum, replace with generic Gates OTS hoses and shit and add in 1x brass joiner. Delete the numerous branches/water Ts, etc. for the OEM TB & heat exchanger, etc. then run a new line for the turbo water return. About $500 should do it Delete the hard line and use a R34 RB25DE coolant line, it doesn't have all the silly branches / ts for the heat exchanger and turbo water return. Then create a new turbo water return and connect that to the old line for the bleeder. Means underside is nice & neat. At the same time will replace all the heater hoses from the core to the hard lines behind the motor too). Heater core is only a few years old, replaced it when I put in the previous motor. This option is about $500 as well, however it's a bit more elegant than Option 2 and requires much less effort than Option 1 or 2. Decided to go with Option 3, here's my donation to Amayama lol And here's the hose that pretty much solves my problem And this is what I'm planning to fit up to the front water return brass fitting (that goes into the thermostat housing). Converts a barb to a 6AN The above will go here: Yeah, farken.

And I hope the relay receives the trigger signal from the ECU and not the ignition power. It should prime and stop if the motor isn't running.

Red Bull, if you're reading this thread, please sponsor us 🥲

I reckon if we all banded together, we'll make a great race team (build, fab, tune, pit, race) all under one roof. No need for external vendors.

Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.

I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.

haha I held off on getting a dash for a while because I didn't like the iC7, and I knew Haltech were going to bring out another dash. I just don't know how this will actually fit in the R33

I've got DBW, easily done via the Haltech. Just need to feed in brake & clutch input however I'm out of inputs. Will need an IC10 dash or I/O expander to get more inputs.

You can just swap the pins at the CAS connector side. You could go old school and use a test light to see which pin is going back to B1 on your ECU