Dose Pipe Sutututu

Loving the data, more proof that those plenums are not worth the effort.

And yep, nothing ever gets handed over to me 100% Poor owner, paid $4k for a wiring up job with issues. I/Os were not configured, nor were they even in the god damn spreadsheet the wiring guy did, he simply just said work it out, it's not hard... ?‍♂️?‍♂️?‍♂️ Then came trying to setup the calibration table for the wideband, then found out the voltage received was wrong, took apart his dash and traced the wiring and guess what? The sensor ground wasn't connected to the wideband. Anyhow, after all of that finally got everything setup and temporarily connected the wideband's sensor ground to the chassis to get some form of output into the analogue input of the ECU I find that the stepper motor for the idle control valve doesn't work. Just sent Haltech a support ticket to see if the wiring is correct, if so perhaps the idle stepper motor is toast. Ended up using rotational idle to control the car's idle lol. 5 hours later, took the car on its maiden voyage, 1 bar of boost and she moves ok. Just no power steering, no vehicle speed sensor to ECU (as the wiring guy said it's not needed, what the?), no idle control valve, slightly off AFR input to ECU (currently no O2 control), and a slight fuel leak on the return lol.. Man I hate modded cars even more! Anyhow, Merry Christmas All! #skidsvideocoming

Next car to setup and tune, 1JZ stock bottom with ARP studs, stock cams, and a GTX3076R Gen 2. Will be running flex fuel, and piles of boost. Customer wants 300kW+ on 98RON and 400kW+ on E85. I did say to him you're running stock rod bolts, so we might have not overly push the setup. But let's see, starting the setup today - hope his wiring dude connected everything up properly, if not there's going to be 6 hours of swearing ahead.

Toe the rear in about 2mm each side, so when it squats you'll end up with 0mm toe. Go more depending how much your arse end squats. If you run traction rods, you can extend those and relax a bit on the toe in. Also do you have a real rear diff? Or the lazy stock one? I know this is a bad comparison, but back then when I was doing heaps of track work I was happily putting down 372kW at the rear wheels and the car would be straight every time and also on the street. Just good suspension setup and good alignment made all the difference.

Will melt, unless you have a sheet of ACL head shield between it. However, even the hot compressed air out of the turbo will be enough to eventually blow apart the silicone bend. I personally would pop off the comp cover, buy an eBay special 90 degree cast bend and get it welded to the comp outlet.

@WantGTR and I are both glad you threw the twin homos into the bin and became a man and went to a single. Response, power, transient, less heat, less hoses, less aids.

It's ok, provided your wastegate flap doesn't get caught or hit the split. If it does you'll end up with boost control issues. Hence why bell mouth is best, no bullshit.

So much for leaving my wife's car stock, also threw the new car warranty out the window too lol. Turbo muffler delete, bigger turbo inlet and APR reflash (yes the tuner went to get an off the shelf remap, turns out Kess by Alienware is nearly $6k, not buying a tuning suite for 1x tune). I'll go strap it up to the dyno next time I'm using it and see what it pumps out

Have you binned the Hicraps system yet? Like properly bin it with a full kit where you remove the Hicraps ball joints. That made a massive difference, and also dialling in the traction rods.

Dayummm needs restrictors tapped in, excuse to put in a better HG too when the time comes.

take some photos of your engine bay, might help

No, I am referring to the return pipe into your intake (pre-turbo)

At an internet mechanic guess, sounds like you've forgotten to block of the BOV return back into the intake pipe when you installed your whoosh valve.

Were they the HC+ or HC800 or Club Racer? Elig Racing KT111 pads will be on par with Hawk DTC70 and generate sparks haha

Yeah crack open the bleed points and let all the air pockets/bubbles run out

Did you bleed the coolant system? If you don't you'll run into issues as above

You'll need the PLMS cable & Nistune suite to do that

Tuner related problem

Wanted to be sensible and buy an adult car, that didn't last long lol.

How about Golf R Wagon? @ActionDan

Sometimes I wish I changed earlier, something about them just works and makes me smile. Funny enough getting the reflash on the Tiguan has made it so enjoyable I wonder why I even have a Skyline in the backyard. Should replace it with a Golf R LOL

Guess I'll give a crack at my car listing too (kind of boring): Mitsubishi Magna 1989, lasted 2 months gearbox died from D-Bangers Commodore VN - D-Banger beast, welded diff Toyota Cressida 180SX it RB20DET R33 GTS-t S2 40th Anniversary Honda Accord CG1 V6 (best FWD burnouts) N15 Pulsar Q R33 GTS-t S2 (current shit box) Corolla ZZE122R Mazda 3 BL SP25 VW Tiguan (current) I hope all the future car purchases are European LOL

Rears are interchangeable as well, however I can't recall if the GT non-t uses a drum handbrake as well, if not you'll need a GT-t backing plate, the drum handbrake setup & maybe the handbrake cables (similar to how you would convert a S13~S15 to a Skyline setup). Personally I would just buy used calipers and rebuild them, instead of going to Nissan and letting them rip you a new arsehole.

Looks like a few of us have had Commodore D-Banger VNs lol (I had one as well). I'm surprised a hoon like you @r32-25t never owned a VN

@robbo_rb180 on the same pads now too! Should be a good comparison between the two 180SXs