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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. @mlr you coming in your whooshy pssh sututu machine? I worked it out, if I get up at 5:15am (which I do most days), get the car out the door by 5:30am by playing tetris then be at Wilberforce by 6:30am. At that point if my car hasn't broken down, or been defected then will cruise with @PLYNX to whereever @niZmO_Man you coming Mr Uber?
  2. Actually prefer yours @PLYNX but not sure it will work with my stupid setup lol
  3. Adam, the ex-welder at Plazmaman did the lot for me. The catch can is also baffled internally He's not cheap, but his welds are like what you see on Plazmaman ICs and plenums. If you want to contact him, I can PM you his details.
  4. They also don't mind high rail pressure too, at 4bar they become "1150cc" as most retailers advertise them at which is misleading. Just like how plenty of eBay retailers called the Bosch 1550 a 1650cc injector
  5. @PLYNX car itself looks pretty normal, not too low about 2cm wheel gap but does have a nice dent on the driver's guard from when I bought it 6 years ago and the rear guards have rust on them lol. Engine wise, pod is covered, catch can setup is fully plumbed back, most things are black but because I am a moron - I've disconnected the gate plumb back LOL
  6. What time do you usually start? Actually considering it lol Let's hope I don't get defected or lose my license or both.
  7. They are too small, unless you bump up the base fuel pressure to 4 bar. You'll need about 35% more fuel flow. Say if you're already at 80~90% DC then you won't have headroom for E85. You'll be able to get more power out of your setup, as I can imagine you're pretty knock limited on 98RON with that small turbo. Don't expect miracles but a 10~15% gain in power is possible
  8. Yeah HC800 are the Thailand version of the HC+ You'll find some Aussie retailers will tell you that the HC+ and HC800 are the same, they're very different. HC+ is made in Japan (and the price shows too) Do you need new pads for your new setup?
  9. A bit tempted to join you, but I'm not confident my car will last the 3~4 hour drive, I still haven't pushed the reliability of my fuel system. Currently running 2x wallahbros connected to 2x SSRs but PWMs (which is what I'm afraid of), been hearing that feeding this style SSR PWM will cause them to die quick. Then again if they fail, easy, screw driver and swap some wires around and the pumps will be full time. haha will need to see, a bit strapped for cash because hey who doesn't need a new bathroom and 2x holidays in a space of 3 months LOLOLLLLLLL
  10. Or convert to DBW and piss off the AAC, IACV
  11. @PLYNX maybe we should meet up for a drive, haven't been on one in the R33 since the old motor, which would be nearly 3 years ago. Meet up with @mlr and that Indian uber driver @niZmO_Man lolol
  12. Actually a RB20DET would run better as it has less timing in it.
  13. Very good result and insight, I find with 4 ports they're interesting to get right. I currently have a 1bar spring it in and between 1~2% change on the DC it's changing as much as 0.3 bar at time. I'm going to take it apart (maybe never) and swap it to a 0.5bar spring and see how that behaves, hopefully give the control range a bit more resolution.
  14. @Lithium do you also have a graph with the manifold pressure? the torque sure drops quite heavily resulting is very flat power up top, nearly looks like valve float (if pressure remains constant).
  15. @PLYNX My R33 has seen about 100km in the past 4 weeks, I get more enjoyment driving the Tiguan. I cannot be cured On the upside you keen on a built motor, GTX3576R Gen2, full stupid spec overkill fuel system, kebabtech 2500 with more sensors than you can think of? Wait, better yet just buy my car LOL @mlr LOLOLOL lucky mine is only the Minister of war, she has no idea of the family finances and thinks it just rains money all day. Decided we needed 2x holidays in the next 3 months and on top of that let's re-model the bathroom.
  16. You can't just slap on bigger injectors on. At least run a RB20DET ECU so the fueling it somewhat in the correct ballpark. You're commanding the same pulsewidth on bigger injectors, what do you think is going to happen? Imagine a garden hose you open and close for 2 seconds. Now go use a fire hydrant and open and close it for 2 seconds. Is the flow the same? No.
  17. Platinum Pro to Link is a big step Elite to Link is sideways
  18. Sorry was referring to Ben's more recent question about the EBCs which was asked on Thursday. OP probably had Microtech with pots you adjusted with a flat head screw driver using visual cues to determine AFRs.
  19. I believe he is running a PowerFC - so running this on a near stock setup provides much better value for money. Side note, the amount of people who splash out on EVC5/6 and don't bother connecting up vehicle speed and RPM input but yet insist on getting the best EBC because it controls boost well.
  20. Great write up with the car, hopefully you go to the track and get kicked off (that's a good thing). Try these, simple and effective upgrade for any CAS issues, I know it's not as accurate as a proper crank trigger kit - but it's so much better than the Nissan CAS. Nearly all my silly misfires, issues with triggering are now non-existent. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/
  21. Now with wanker obnoxious noises, fit for a dickhead in a Skyline
  22. Does that one have a vehicle speed input? At least you won't throw PS belts anymore (if you ever did). I kept spitting PS belts when the motor was spun close to 8.5k on the limiter at a skidpan. Had to pop it back on twice then ended up lowering thr rev limiter (no fun in that).
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