Dose Pipe Sutututu

can you check if this is an auto ECU?

Has this been converted to manual by any chance?

All the above effort, time, swapping out parts in the dark (i.e. no O2 data). You're literally running in the dark.

Best option, at least it's not an engine lottery. These NEO motors are close to 30 years old, they're doing ok.

I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.

Once you go non OEM DBW e-throttle, you'll never go back to a cable throttle. Just so good in every single way.

Feels like most tend to keep it under 8000rpm for hydraulic lifters. Quick search on the net and those on Rennlist like to keep theirs under 7500rpm, Speed Talk under 8000rpm. Perhaps start to take timing out for 7250rpm and soft cut it by 8000rpm.

I recall you're going to launch the OEM ECU into the bin in another post, unpopular opinion but throw the AAC, IACV, cable throttle & pedal all into the bin and convert to DBW e-throttle & pedal. For quick install (minimum fab work) these guys have a great bit of kit: https://outsidergarage.com/products/nissan-rb25-oem-dbw-conversion-kit Hit up @outsidergarage for more details. (I'm not affiliated nor do I use them)

You need the fuel pressure gauge reading when the car is running and on boost. Revving it stationary doesn't tell you much. Get a wideband O2 installed, or borrow a portable one. Will show very valuable data.

Just a reminder for everyone 😂

I think way too many people get caught up in the whole bigger TB for more power, but that's only if it becomes a restriction. In a FI environment, the TB size is not as sensitive, where as in a NA environment, you find with the throttle at 100% and if the plenum still registers a vacuum, then your TB is undersized and requires to be upgraded.

Is there a reason why you want close to 600kW in a R32 GTS-t? Have you thought about suspension work, subframe changes (from a newer car, offsetting it), diff choice, brakes, gearbox? There's a high chance you're running a RB20DET gearbox which will not like close to 600kW being sent through it. Also a 6262 won't get you close to 600kW.

I prefer to be in the car to hear/feel it, remote tuning isn't the same. Also when something goes wrong I can back off the throttle much quicker than trying to relay that to the dyno operator.

Could you ask them to give you the tune file? I know why some shops lock their tunes, so their customers don't fiddle with it and cause future issues/problems. Too bad you don't live in Sydney, could have hired a dyno and tuned the car together.

So one hose is out of production for RB25DET however it seems the RB26DETT one from a R33/R34 or Stagea "should" work. I am hoping it's 19mm like the RB25s lol. Anyhow, time to wait for over month parts from Japan (yeah this time I made sure to cover up my address lol).

Would only affect the low end, not the outright power produced. Also 180kW is about right for a stock turbo, you could push a bit more boost and make 190~200kW then hours later (maybe minutes) be ready to buy a new turbo lol.

74mm would be good, however you will find you will need to gently ramp in the pedal vs. throttle so it feels smooth and linear (not like those silly carb V8s where you touch the throttle 1mm and the car wants to fry tyres). This is how mine is dialled in with a 74mm DBW TB, I wanted 68mm but Plazmaman couldn't weld a 68mm flange onto the plenum. You said you want 373kW to 447kW, you don't need a 62mm turbo to do that, that turbo can spin over 500kW+

big throttle bodies don't magically make more power. You only need to go bigger if you have more boost pre throttle than post throttle when at WOT. 68 or 74mm DBW is more than sufficient for most people.

Fake GReddy = Freddy Don't waste your money, money better spent on good engine management, modern injectors, drive by wire (so you can delete all that cable throttle, idle control valve junk).

Most likely it's tuning related. That plenum is fine, moving to a Plazmaman you won't notice much of a difference. If you want supreme low down, better off with the stock intake manifold & plenum OR the Rajab top half. A Precision or Turbosmart 6262 is too big for what you want, and big boost with Tomei Valve springs also a fail. You can make 373kW on a stock motor with just head studs, sensible timing in the mid range and it will last for your intended purposes (won't last on the track for too long).

sounds like a good solid plan actually

maybe also pop the stock fan blade back on

What radiator is in the car? What thermostat and is the little bleed hole thing facing upwards? Is your clutch fan working?

I reckon there's a cheeky air pocket somewhere on the side facing the body

my bro-science approach tells me there's unequal force being applied from either side, hence the movement. If equal force is being applied, one would assume there would be 0 movement.