Dose Pipe Sutututu

I have given up, clearly I know nothing.

When your TPS position is at 0% you're essential on the zero throttle timing table like I posted up before. I think you're understanding it differently, the car idles because it is commanded x amount on the IACV, and y amount of injection and z amount of timing.

Will the o2 readings be wrong? No, if the combustion took place - if there are slight misfires then yes Will ecu do fuel trim? It always does, different IAT, different ambient temperature, different altitude Will ecu compensate timing based on fuel trims if needed? No, the stock ECU doesn't care Car is at 850rpm. closed loop? It's always on closed loop, if the closed loop conditions are met, i.e. TPS 0%, within idle RPM range, etc. This is still an idle off idle maps (atm) wanting to correct? Not sure what you mean, sorry

If say the idle is dead at what it needs to be and the narrow band doesn't say it's too lean OR too rich (no idea what the voltage range is for the OEM Nissan ECU at stoich because I've never bothered to look), then theoretically the timing should be pretty stable, noting that the car is at operating temperature. This implies there isn't a timing compensation applied for a quick warmup strategy.

The ECU can't be fooled, it uses the CAS to determine engine RPM 2 full rotations of the crank = 1 full rotation of the CAS, i.e. it reads the home slot inside the CAS. It's always in closed loop, until you unplug the TPS (this applies to OEM ECU only)

It adds timing for idle stabilsation - I've said this before Unplug the TPS so you can accurately set your base timing - which I've also said before

generally yes, make sure everything is there (studs, washers, nuts) and when you're torquing them down make sure you use assembly lube to get the right torque values - as per ARP.

@DTT_Eruc just relax man, we are all here to help Let's put it this way, I wouldn't reuse the OEM Nissan head bolts. If I had to use the OEM Nissan head bolts, they would be brand new. They're Torque to Yield head bolts. If the head is coming off, put in a Tomei headgasket and ARP headstuds, torque them to spec and push the motor till something goes bang - however the Tomei HG and ARP headstuds would be reusable items, so nothing is lost.

I just re-read that after failing at skim reading LOL... You're better off with a RB20DET ECU as it supports VCT, yes that's right RB20DET can control VCT on your RB25DET motor. If you're hell bent on using the RB26 ECU on a RB25 that also can be done, however you lose the VCT capability. All you do is wire both AFM signals together so 1x AFM feeds both inputs, however best to check with Matt at Nistune if that's still required for the later/latest firmware for Nistune.

Don't be tight, get the Tomei HG and ARP studs.. then do it all at the same time. Torque it down properly once and forget about it.

Some have done 400kW+ with everything OEM just ARP headstuds. However you'll be silly not to replace it with a Tomei HG if the head is off.

I would get a new Nistune board and install a consult port direct onto the ECU connector. No need to burn chips and use emulators, not to mention you could implement full flex support and hook up a launch control switch as well.

If that's the case, you're better off using a factory Nissan hg. It will be much more forgiving of not perfect mating surfaces. Otherwise you'll have to at a minimum skim the head and clean the deck surface thoroughly. The Tomei gasket is pretty forgiving Also ditch the OEM head bolts and use a ARP head studs instead.

On E85 people have pushed over 400kW at the wheels with close to 2bar of boost. Remember it's not boost that blows apart motors, it's cylinder pressure.

Sounds like injectors may have played up initially

Get a Tomei head gasket, they're o-ringed. Avoid Cometic MLS unless you deck the block and skim the head.

I've heard of them, however never experienced one. But my only recommendation is to go with a sprung centre/discs as it's 99% a street car as you've said. However, since you're only pushing sub 400kW have you given much thought into a NPC 10" single plate carbotic clutch? Yes they use Exedy parts however they're modified to allow soft pedal operation and smooth engagement. Another option (if you're in Sydney ish area) is to hit up Scott at Western Clutch. He can mix and match parts to suit your needs and also modify pressure plates to suit engagement style as well as clamp pressure. My last clutch came from Scott and handled 3 years of abuse on the track with 370kW+ out back on a single disc.

Doing it wrong, 2kg of MB5+ Waygu Oyster Blade is already $120. By the time you add in truffle butter, artisan bread, and all the sides + the foie gras you're at $200+ already. I could easily spend $1k on feeding the kids.

congrats now you can maybe chop Honda wankers

My guess, 123.0273480923794873298 kWs

This is pretty much how idle stabilisation works, you have an idle/decel table which dictates the base idle ignition timing, then there's another table which adds in timing or deducts from the 15 degrees of timing to reduce or increase torque to allow the motor to hit it's target idle, which is dictated in the idle target table. This is as close as it gets to the OEM ECU, I don't like the way it's done via Nistune however it works. A much simpler, more elegant way is using a RPM error table, such is available in plenty of mainstream ECUs such as kebabtech (queue the haters but I like using it). Here's the stock timing table, you can see that all the idle cells are 15 And here you see there's an idle timing correction table for when the idle rpm is not met And don't forget there's ignition timing added to warm up the motor too So yeah your "base timing" might be 15, but when you start layering on addition dimensions for idle control strategies, engine operating temperature strategies it can easily swing up and down. That is why when you're setting your CAS you need to lock your ignition timing, so regardless of inputs/compensation tables applied the timing will be fixed. e.g.

Might just be worth it connected the bottom part of each waste gate directly to a pressure source to see if they "crack" open.

you can use a Tomei headgasket, as they're o-ringed - same with the Nitto ones. Cometic requires you to deck the block and the head so they're perfectly flat. Nothing wrong with Cometic, but it has it's requirements. I generally use and recommend Tomei ones.

You need an oscilloscope not a voltmetre to determine knock, a knock sensor behaves very similar to a microphone. Like I said in a previous post, if you test the voltage on the knock sensor pin without the sensor connected you'll detect a voltage when using a stock ECU.

Disconnect your knock sensor and put a multimeter on your ECU knock input pin and you'll get a voltage too. Essentially that sensor acts as a pull down resistor. People in the past have disable then for Z32 ECUs by fitting resistors.