Dose Pipe Sutututu

Yeah man, Nissan life.

Bought so more shit parts for the shit box. Couldn't afford fancy coils so opted in for some genuine Nissan stuff

Not on twins, you won't. Will be a very expensive exercise to get twin externals on an OEM twin setup. Go single, twin scroll, twin gates, twin screamer when the time comes.

money better spent on a set of high lift, higher duration cams and raising the rev limiter

Put a southern cross sticker on the back, with some rubbish 19/20s on it and white walls.. instant value adder right there!

wow... they're like 12~14k here in Australia. Just move over here, might be cheaper in the long run lol

Ia your CAS wired in backwards? Between different series of looms the pins are all reversed. E.g. R33 GTR is 1 2 3 4 and R34 GTR is 4 3 2 1.

My advice is to sell your car, buy a GT-t You'll save money, time, updating your registration with a new motor, etc. But if you're dead set on doing the conversion then don't forget the boost sensor and popping in a better fuel pump. R34 ECUs are retarded, without it the car runs like shit. Even when on Nistune, without it connected the TP Load Index goes mental, I found out the hard way when I tuned a customer's car. I disabled the boost sensor flags, upped all the voltage limits to avoid it trigger a DTC and guess what? Still went mental. Got in touch with Nistune support and they said it's paramount you connect the sensor regardless of boost or if it is disabled

Twins in the bin! Loving the build man, btw.. pop in some aftermarket head studs such as ARP2000 to preserve the OEM headgasket.

Just skim it, pop on a good head gasket such as a Tomei OR a Nitto one. Avoid Cometic unless you're maching your block too, as they require both surfaces to be dead flat. Whilst you're at it, pop in ARP headstuds too!

Must have a very flat timing map, SRs dont' like timing in the mid range so I usually ram in the timing at nearly 3~4 degrees for every 1000rpms once it has past peak torque. Maybe ask your tuner to send you a screen grab of the timing map and send it to me.

hahah awesome! yeah the GTX2871 (IMHO) seems a bit mismatched, but.... just 2 weeks ago I tuned an older S13 SR20 and it made 270kW with plenty more headroom but being a stock motor with the stock headgasket I didn't want to push it further. I suspected it would have gone 300kW with more boost and timing, but owner said 260kW was what he was aiming for so I gave him 270kW haha. S15 headgaskets are of a better material and with just slightly overtorqued headstuds they seem to hold up the track/street abuse. The problem with the stock head bolts is they are torque to yield and because of the coarse thread don't clamp as well. Gearbox, seen the new Alpha Omega kit? uses a R33 gearbox and no more stupid W pattern! Shifter also sits bang on the middle. With the 3.7 OEM diff, might be a bit tall, but the 3.9 from the Auto S15 is perfect Cams, I would say go Tomei Poncams, keep the torque nice and fat. I did have a S15 with Procams, GTX2867R Gen 2 going on the dyno but sadly his gearbox exploded a week after I street tuned it so we had to delay the dyno - so no results yet lol.

RE: S15 Pop some headstuds into the motor I've tuned 2x GTX2867R albeit Garrett versions and one did 272kW with boost dropping and the other did 280kW bang on with 1.8bar of boost. If you're bored, check out trak-life's instagram page! https://www.instagram.com/traklife/

Also non-NEO 1997 and 1998 R33 GTS-t has the black CAS

NEO heads have the front head drain blocked off. Non-NEO heads have a steel drain that goes back into the block.

Depends on state

Whatever you do, whatever pump you install throw that pressure relief valve into the bin.

Somewhere around the $1k mark installed (this was a while ago) - yours might be different in price as it's a twin plate

They have the right tools to do what you dream of, they have a clutch pressure plate testing tool as well! I've got a Exedy clutch modified by them to clamp 1.7 tons with a carbotic disc and the pedal effort is like a stock manual Corolla.

Great price, if only this was for sale earlier I would have bought this instead paying for an ASR sump

may use the nitrous to only get the turbo on, as a form of anti-lag - would make it like a V8 You still on a single plate? maybe have a chat with Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary and pop in a twin plate.

My idea of a fun NA would be something like that, but a RB30 bottom, 10.5:1 compression (or even more) NEO head, massive cams, ITBs (of course) and spin in 10k RPM Perfect motor for an old 240Z!

car still providing boners? haven't heard about it in a while! Also these days, the Bosch 1550cc aka 1650cc (as most retailers call them) are 100% unmodifed where as the 1250cc are still milled to get that flow rating.

hahaha.. well it's running smoothly enough LOL I have it roughly as follows: 0 RPM - 0.18volts 1000 RPM - 0.9 volts 2000 RPM - 1.5 volts 3000 RPM - 2.0 volts 4000 RPM - 3.0 volts (onwards is all the same) ** edit I'll start driving the car around and pull logs so I can get the right arming voltages, also not too sure if Geoff will be moving to a hall effect sensor, the reluctor although "old school" is actually quite reliable

Get a SAFC, get a wideband and lean it out a little bit - that's all you really can do and pop in some high lift cams, but $ vs. kW it's not really value for money.