Dose Pipe Sutututu

sounds like you are super close, either the air gap is out OR the trigger arming voltage is too high. In NSP, just plot the trigger voltage vs. RPM vs. time and when you crank it you'll see what it reaching, adjust the trigger arming to suit

So I really need a 2nd working car at home, went down a few possible ways of fixing it Replace everything with the Boost Doc Kit, which would require me to degas the A/C, rip out the HVAC system, install new fitting, re-install and re-gas. This requires max effort (need to take off plenum, thermostat housing, HVAC, etc.) and cost the most. About $1.2k (kit, ac degas/regas, making new lines for turbo water return) Delete the hardline that runs underneath the plenum, replace with generic Gates OTS hoses and shit and add in 1x brass joiner. Delete the numerous branches/water Ts, etc. for the OEM TB & heat exchanger, etc. then run a new line for the turbo water return. About $500 should do it Delete the hard line and use a R34 RB25DE coolant line, it doesn't have all the silly branches / ts for the heat exchanger and turbo water return. Then create a new turbo water return and connect that to the old line for the bleeder. Means underside is nice & neat. At the same time will replace all the heater hoses from the core to the hard lines behind the motor too). Heater core is only a few years old, replaced it when I put in the previous motor. This option is about $500 as well, however it's a bit more elegant than Option 2 and requires much less effort than Option 1 or 2. Decided to go with Option 3, here's my donation to Amayama lol And here's the hose that pretty much solves my problem And this is what I'm planning to fit up to the front water return brass fitting (that goes into the thermostat housing). Converts a barb to a 6AN The above will go here: Yeah, farken.

And I hope the relay receives the trigger signal from the ECU and not the ignition power. It should prime and stop if the motor isn't running.

Red Bull, if you're reading this thread, please sponsor us 🥲

I reckon if we all banded together, we'll make a great race team (build, fab, tune, pit, race) all under one roof. No need for external vendors.

Lighting in the shed looks real good! Not lying, have shed envy lol. Maybe one day I can fk off from Metro Sydney.

I would be cautious with those 2000/2200 CNG injectors, swap them out for a set of 1550 aka 1650 Bosch stainless ones before you take out a motor.

haha I held off on getting a dash for a while because I didn't like the iC7, and I knew Haltech were going to bring out another dash. I just don't know how this will actually fit in the R33

I've got DBW, easily done via the Haltech. Just need to feed in brake & clutch input however I'm out of inputs. Will need an IC10 dash or I/O expander to get more inputs.

You can just swap the pins at the CAS connector side. You could go old school and use a test light to see which pin is going back to B1 on your ECU

Going to get 4x Toyota Rav 4 diesel injectors changed at a non dealer mechanic will set you back a bit over $4k. So not too far off.

Forgot to add, that excellent economy was on street tyres, normal street alignment, I recall they were Kumho KU31. Current motor, with the silly alignment and tyres would go nowhere near those numbers.

I got better economy after fitting a bigger turbo (when purely highway driving, Sydney to Forster, got down to ~8.3L/100KM), as it takes more throttle and RPM to get on boost.

Space X Falcon 10

Maybe find the spec sheet and see what the resistance of the coil is, possibly it's not fried? Especially if you didn't short it

Hmmmm not sure, but an assumption is maybe. A reluctor creates its own voltage so you don't feed it one.

You might need to trace it back, or at the very least work out which is 12V (to not use), which one is GND and which goes back to B1 and B2 (to not use).

This! @Duncan can you please edit my 2x previous posts to say B1 (just incase someone reads it and gets confused)

I think so, I'll have a look when I'm home later. I wrote a post on the now defunct Haltech forum detailing this, very useful they deleted it lol.

Looks like the connector itself on the trigger kit is pinned funny. Make sure you're not wired to the +12V, it should be sensor GND and back to B1 on the Elite 2500 (need to find the post I wrote years ago).

Much better graph! Battery voltage wise, seems a bit on the low ish side but not terrible. Would be nicer of it had a delta of 0.2V instead of 0.5V Maybe try add in an earth strap between the motor and chassis and check to see if the power cable from alternator to fuse/relay box hasn't degraded

Just proves thick anti roll bars all round are shit 🙃 God forbid I tell people that.

being a R33, just bridge / delete the resistor pack next to the power antenna, done.

Pretty much, once the car is running, check it again (with the engine running) That's for a Link, I can't recall the reasoning, however if you take 97 and minus it from 720 you get 623 degrees

That kit is similar to the NZ Wiring Trigger kit, this is what I have for mine (your offset might be a little different as the plate, as I'm sure each manufacturer has it a little different) I do have the filter slightly high, might drop it