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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Higher number more fuel, lower number less fuel. Unfortunately those numbers are nearly like arbitrary numbers, it doesn't represent VE or injector timings. And get a wideband before you go guessing it's misfiring because it's too rich, chances are it's a lean misfire.
  2. Buy a Golf GTI, it is much faster and P plate legal. Not to mention has all the safety features someone on their Ps would need. When I look back to my yesteryears, I owned a pretty fast RB swapped 180SX on my Ps (yes I am old, you could drive them back then), so many times I nearly killed myself but didn't. Car had no ABS, no TC, no stability control, no airbags, no anything besides a locker and a RB lol
  3. You're better off with a @Toshi re-mapped ECU being sent over to you.
  4. Seems like that, they over cut the ignition power cable, so what did they do? find a 5cm piece of wire to extend it!!!!! Not to mention, instead of using the Nissan keyless module for the interior light and/or determine if the doors are opened, they instead ran a wire up to the cabin light LOL!!!
  5. Seems like the car blows a bit of smoke, but hopefully it goes away. In other news, wired up a new alarm and tidied up the horrendous shit job a "professional" did. Idiot ran a separate power lock relay for no reason when Nissan's keyless module has all the I/Os needed to trigger and control the door lock motors. Also they used speaker wire to connect the lock motor to the relay. Funny I'm not a professional by any means but the alarm install I did looks about 20x times neater and tidier. I honestly don't know how people stay in business performing such shitty work. I won't mention who did the work for the previous owner but holy shit it was poor! Clue, store is in Blacktown/Slacktown. Anyhow.
  6. Buy a set of Hel braided hoses, job done New, braided, stronger all for about $160 delivered. No point re-using dinosaur Nissan lines.
  7. If you have no idea what you're doing (by the sound of things you don't) take it to a tuner. How do you know it's over fueling? How do you know it's not a lean misfire? Do you even know the AFRs? Do you even know if you've scaled the injectors properly? Don't mean to be blunt, but if you're going the way you're going you're going to grenade your motor.
  8. I recommend going twin scroll, single turbo setup if you want response, good transient and power.
  9. 600kW can be reliable though
  10. I think he was on number 3, can't have a reliable 450kW these days.
  11. Dose & Gate = Cocaine & Strippers
  12. Prices on the parts is a bit over the top, labour wise about $700~800 is fair. I suggest try to get the labour down to $700~$800 and supply all the parts yourself. Wait till there's a 20% sale on eBay and get all your bushes/parts from Sparesbox, etc. I've done the job myself, and without a hoist and doing it on the floor it took me a full day with 2x mates. These days, would happily hand over that money to a shop to do it.
  13. Not much of an update (photo wise), but have done the following: installed a reverse camera (well cabling for now) and wired it up to my new modern head unit put the interior back in installed new wideband sensor and removed the Innovate MTX-L kit mounted up my Haltech ECU and Haltech Wideband controller (didn't want to use the Innovate, wanted CAN connectivity) And yes, was asked by a few members why I didn't have 10 Haltech boxes to connect up my sensors and was told that Haltech is junk and belongs in the bin, it's because I know what I'm doing and making the most of what the hardware has to offer. Was also asked why I even chose a Haltech - simple reasons, good support, easy to use software and also I get decent pricing on it for my own personal cars. If I had a massive car fund, had someone else wiring up my car and had someone else tuning my car I would simply just drive the lot to a Motec dealer/tuner and dump the car there. For anyone interested, the following additional I/Os have been wired directly to the Haltech without any additional boxes: Input: Haltech Intake Air Temp Sensor Input: Haltech 4bar Motorsports MAP sensor Input: Haltech OIl Temperature Sensor Input: Ti Automotive 5 bar Oil Pressure Sensor Input: Ti Automotive 5 bar Fuel Pressure Sensor Input: Continental Compact Flex Sensor (Ethanol content & Fuel Temperature) Output: Solid State Relay for Pump 1 Output: Solid State Relay for Pump 2 Output: 4 port MAC Valve for Boost control Only Haltech box is the Wideband Controller, which I wanted because it connects via the CANbus. I could have used the 0-5V output from the Innovate and wired it into the Haltech without any boxes, but that was my conscious decision. So if anyone wants to say Haltech is junk or belongs in the bin or you need 10 boxes to hook up sensors I suggest you stop regurgitating shit from people because you've got no idea what you're talking about.
  14. well said Sir @GTSBoy Also modern cars open the bypass to allow turbos to get to speed much quicker before shutting them down, hence they're driven by solenoid rather than vac/pressure. Dose/Flutters/Pigeons (not the real one) don't destroy turbos, but don't ever tell an American that. They will post up endless photos of blown compressor wheels and turbo destruction. Dose is sick, delete your BOVs. One thing I forgot to say, BOVs do have their purpose - on cars running big boost, there are chances on hard throttle closing events - the pressure pre-throttle body side spikes and at times can exacerbate hoses blowing off and throttle plates bending!
  15. I suggest drive it back to your tuner/mechanic/fabricator and tell them to install it. If you're asking the question how to install it, then it seems it might be best left to someone that knows how to. I'm assuming that is just a generic BOV and not model specific, if so that would require some modding and fabrication.
  16. Sorry I should have clarified, they sell new power connectors to the top of the fuel tank for your fuel pump power. And yes, you essentially you're connecting the fuel pump directly to the battery via a relay, and fuse. I suggest at the very least 30AMP Narva or Bosch (or anything decent, no eBay shit) relay, 4mm wiring, good fuse holder and run a 20AMP fuse. No harm going balls out big lol
  17. I suspect the FPCM causing the issue, just earth off the pump OR delete the resistor complete, i.e. join both wires together and throw out the resistor. It's located next to the jack in the boot and opposite the electric antenna. See if that helps, if there is some improvement - go straight to hard wiring the fuel pump with a proper relay, decent 4mm wires with a new plug going to the fuel cap. Kudos MS sells them brand new, so great for DIY work. Lastly, another thing to check would be the stock FPR vacuum hose, they tend to crack/pop off over time and because there's a hard plastic shield over it, sometimes the leaks aren't evident.
  18. G3, relatively old design compared to his more recent & modern turbos. That result is pretty decent! Jack up your car, unbolt your car, have a look if it's hollowed out or not! And if you're really keen on getting a re-tune and burning cash take it to Mark @ MRC Dyno in Castle Hill. He would be my pick if I had to choose a tuner. I've seen his timing maps/tunes and compared to others they're much better.
  19. Generally Hypergear high flows (back then, no experience with his newer high flows) made around the 250-270kW on a roller dyno. Tao's test rig often read a bit higher as it was always dynoed on a hub dyno.
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